Installing brake ducts on 2nd gens???????
 

In the future I'm considering installing brake ducts onto my TII.

http://www.awrracing.com/images/0000-03-7302bg.jpg

But I would like to remove the factory auxiliary/fog lights and install these air collectors in their location:
http://www.ioportracing.com/images/product/BD-1.jpg

Only problem is that it, from the 5 minutes I spent poking around the fog light area, it seems like the washer fluid bottles (windshield & headlight) are right behind the foglights and don't give any room to connect ducting to the air collectors.


I don't want to install the air collectors in the grill because that would block airflow to the radiator/oil cooler.

Has anyone installed brake ducts or seen brake ducts on stock 2nd gen bumpers? If so, please describe them or bring some pics pls!!!!!

lots of IT cars has ducting work on their cars... they are all very functional.

mazda comp can give you lots of ideas too, they sell similar (or that exact) ducts

Those brake ducts work great. Ever since I've installed them i've had no issues with brake cooling. One question though, why do you still have the washer bottles installed? Bugs on the track? If this is a street car then you do not want to install those brake ducts. Once installed you lose the ability to turn the wheels to lock and your turning radius will double. Definately not streetable.
-Matt

88GTU can you expand on the issue of turning radius, where do they hit, or how can they be modified to prevent this problem? I have a set I was going to install, it is a track only car, but if I put it in the tires, etc, I want all of my steering. Thanks, Carl

The problem lies in the tubing. It has to run from the duct to between the wheel and the body and then to the front of the vehicle. When you turn the wheel too far it pinches the ducting and will wear a hole through it. In a track situation I have never had an issue with it as no track has tuns that tight. In the pits, I have to be careful. As for retaining steering when you hit a wall, I think you have bigger issues at that time. If you absolutely need to turn the wheel you can, you'll just rip or damage the ducting hose while doing it.
-Matt

PS: If you want some pictures, I can take some this weekend for you. Let me know.

yes pictures would be great!
and yeah I was considering installing these ducts on my street car :(

it may become track only one day though so the pics will definitly help!!! :D

Agreed on the bit about the wall. I dont remember the name of it, but there is a very strong reinforced ducting(often used around turbos) orange in color, I know it is in my TrueChoice catalog, but I don't have it here. Anyway, I wonder if that would have the required durability to overcome this problem. Or is the problem that when the length is right for optimum flow, the length of the duct is just too short to allow lock to lock? Thanks Carl
This is really just an exercise since I will make it work, but I do appreciate the info, so I know what to watch for.

The problem is the space between the tire and the inner
body. The ducting is 3" in diameter. That space when the tire is turned all the way to lock is about 1"-1.5". The tire basically crushes the ducting. If it happens to be spinning at that moment it also wears a hole through it. The more expensive ducting last alot longer than dryer ducting but still gets damaged over time.
-Matt

Some AL flashing wrapped/bent around the section where the tire rubs at full lock might help ;)
Crispy

Just what I was thinking, basicly only use the ducting for the very last portion, where it gets narrow, fabricate an oval, or rectangular section of aluminum ducting. I am going to build a similar aluminum chanel from the oil cooler ducts (mazdaspeed GTC bumper), behind the radiator, and into the FMIC, I will simply split the duct so that a portion of the air goes to the IC, and a portion to the brakes.

Better way is to install a ring clamp on the steering rack that limits the amount of travel available. Worked on my car and have never had a problem with any turn being too tight. BTW on the track you typically never use more then 10* of steering angle even in the tightest corners, go figure...

Another solution is to use 2- 1.5" or 1.75" ducts instead of 1- 3" MARIAH's E-Prod. car is setup with dual ducts.

Here are the pics you asked for. Sorry for the delay, just got my car back yesterday. All the pictures are pretty large so if you're on dial up it may take a while.

http://www.bfimotorsports.com/matt/brakes/

The best picture showing the lack of space and how the tubing mounts to the brakes is this one:

http://www.bfimotorsports.com/matt/brakes/DSCN0555.JPG

-Matt