How much better handling with FC vs. FD with same size tires/suspension?
 

I finally tried my hand at road racing and am hooked. Raced in NorCal at Thunderhill in Jan and last weekend at Sears Point. I have a stock '87 with no engine mods n/a FC with coilovers (400lb/275lb springs), KYB AGX's, c/c plates, rear adj. camber link, polyeurathane bushings everywhere with shaved 235/17 Toyo RA-1's and Hawk HP+ pads. Car performed great with no brake fade and stuck nicely. 3 hours of racing and 7 quarts of oil :).

How much better would an FC handle vs. an FD with same size tires and suspension mods? Meaning 275/17's up front and 315/335's out back on custom CCW wheels? I plan on having 400rwhp/430rwtq.

Which is cheaper to upgrade the brakes on? I think 13" brakes will be more than enuf for my purposes.

This would be a 80% street car and 20% track car. I believe I could make the FC lighter than the FD and I do have the car already. So I would save some big bucks there. My car recently got the fender damaged and it needs bodywork already to be nice again.... so a friend in Los Angeles can do a TriPoint widebody install and paint the sucker for a very reasonable price.

Any and all opinions welcome. Is the FD worth the $5-8K difference in initial purchase price.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark, put down the crack pipe, and call me;) Carl

hahahahaha too funny!!! You really don't need all that to make a FC handle quite impressivley. The FD will always have some better qualities over the FC due to suspension geometry.

I second that Carl, or call me Mark.
Mark, do I get the credit for converting you from a drag fag?
Widebody? Fd? You nut job.
First we have to get that Viper rear end in there and I thought you would be making more power with that GN engine which you used to justify those big and tall viper gears.
First you have to get a real tranny. It's no fun on the track with an auto.
Brakes...just run some ducting with better pads and you'll be golden. For now at least ;)

Mark! You were there? What day? Sorry I missed you man.

hehehe, take another hit man!

PaulC

T'hillhttp://www.rytekmotorsports.com/spee...mages/0429.jpg

Carl,

You weasel ;) . I live in the Sunset.... not Hunters Point remember. Maybe I'm trying to figure out the best route to go to compete with you and RXHeven on the track now...... with an LS1 powered RX-7.

Dave- I've realized that racing for 25 minutes balls to the walls even in a slow car that handles well is better than one that hauls *ss for 10 seconds down a straight line with the other rednecks.

Paul- I was there on Sunday. I didn't see your car but was pretty busy racing myself. I dig it and wish I had a timer to see what my lap times were. In the open session I drove for an hour straight which was fantastic. Brakes/tires held up very well.

Converting my GN engine to a T56 would be about $2500-3K. Also the thrust bearing on the crankshaft wouldn't last long with the clutch setup and the oiling system on a production GN engine is a poor match for roadracing anyway. LS1/T56 is the best way to go I think for my cause.

-Mark

Go FC, The FD is a better platform, but the money you save(and could then spend on the FC) would far surpass the FD in terms of handling potential. IMHO, I have not run the numbers, but 8000.00 will buy you a whole lot of suspension. Plus if you go FD you are kicked out of the club ;) not to mention slow :D

You'll never beat me Mark...not even close :D

Nice to know you have seen the light my brother. You're still drag racing, but now it's from corner to corner :p:

Enough already, just get a three rotor and you can hang with Jury and I next season :cool:

Also, the 2nd gen rx-7 is the best bang for your buck car out there...period