Getting a first gen to stop
 

Ok, so I have four wheel discs, good pads, rebuilt calipers, SS brakelines and I am not getting as much stopping power as I want.

What do you do?

I have stock front disk stock rear drums. I have comp break pads in the front work great. But makes lots of dust and squeal alot.

more info, it doesn't stop at the first time or it doesn't stop after hard-braking??

If it's a fade problem, u should get ur brakes cool. If not then there is something wrong with your brakes. I run Solo1 and Solo2 events with stock brakes and the only thing that is upgraded are the pads and I am on the heavy side and have no problems stopping.

if you want more stopping power than is currently available then a brake upgrade is in order, assuming the system on the car is operating correctly. a set of new four piston calipers(use aftermarket brand of choice), custom caliper mounting adapter, large vented rotors and custom aluminum rotor hats, a custom set of SS brake lines, and possibly a larger master cylinder(depends on size of pistons in calipers). this should solve any braking performance problems and just duplicate the procedure for the rear.

On our race car we use stock lines/master cyl/rotors/calips. We use Hawk Blues, upgraded fluid, and ducting. You'll be pulling teeth out of the dash when the stop pedal is activated. But again, if your system is old and tired then a stock rebuild will do wonders.

rebuild your brakes to like new condition. use a very high grade race brake fluid. use hawk blues or similar pad. Install a bias valve.

This is the set up we have on our IT7 car. this set up has lasted through 3 hour enduro's at road atlanta with no problems. It works very well.

Cooling duct work helps a lot as well. This is more for making the brakes last longer than for actual stopping power though.

Mike

Ok, I have done what you guys have mentioned, except for one thing. The Hawk Blues, I have them but I drive on the street and autocross and they just are not the right pads for that. I was hoping the Hawk HPS Plus would do the trick.

So my car stops and it does not fade on the track. I don't have the power to pass some of the other folks out there, so I want to be able to out brake them. There is a new MR2 at the track that stops like it hit a wall.

I would like to be able to wait to brake until the very last moment and brake like I hit wall (without actually hitting one).

I think I can set the bias so that back is doing more with out them locking before the fronts. I can look at the negative camber that I run (- 2.5 degrees) and see if I can back off that a bit.

Just like every thing I want MORE!

Hey what kind of duct do you guys run for front and where do u connect it too in the back of the front brakes?

The duct work is kinda like dryer hose but is made to withstand very high temps. you can get it from any race car suply store.

You have to get special backing plates to hook the duct work up to. You can get them from Mazcomp or there are several aftermarket companies that make them. SDS is one company in Florida that makes them. I think they have a web site if you do a search.

Mike