FD Camber
 

Hey,

how easy is it too get 4+deg of camber out of the front an FD ?

i have had a look at the FD Setup "im new to double wishbone" and there doesnt seem to be much adjustment...

the purpose is for track btw.

thanks,

Adam.

Check out this thread
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/howard-colemans-fd-chassis-setup-723617/

There is plenty of room for camber adjustment. Why do you think you need 4 degrees of static negative camber?

The Factory Service Manual shows where the camber adjusters are located on the lower control arms. Link in the 3rd gen section stickies.

scrubbing on the outside? i'm not talking about street tyres.

The way I did it, grind through the welds on the half moons, mark out and extend the slot, re-weld.....probably worthwhile reinforcing the pick-up in that area, judging by the thickness of the metal.

You'll also need to make extensions for the steering arms unless you are keen on a couple of threads engagement in the tie-rod end - or like a lot of toe :lol: . There is a mod to the lower control arm you can do in the event of shock/upper wishbone interference, I believe you shouldn't have that problem with the Ohlins.

yes, i forgot about that... i will just slot the lower x-member!

i will run some toe out on the front, so it might all be ok. i'll see what its like after i do it.

Might add there are other ways too, you could turn up some nylon and make an offset bush (like Superpro does for the rear I understand).

One of the guys down here has sphericals throughout in eccentric housings, but that is in a relatively open class and wasn't a cheap exercise.

One of the most important handling "fixes" having watched a power on/off run on a hoist, is in arse-end toe compliance...ignore it at your peril!:eek:

FD camber gain at two inches of bump is 3 degrees negative.... and you want another 4 degrees static? that'd be, 7 degrees and would make for interesting pyrometer readings.

as far as rear toe... simply replace the lower longitudinal link bushing w nylon or replace the link w a rod end... and swap the rubber diff bushings for nylon.

hc

Should have checked back....

think you'll find that while that camber figure may be correct in bump, most will be concerned with what the tyre sees with the platform in roll. Going off 7 years of an associate's set-up data, covering about a dozen circuits, 4 tyre brands and 3 wheel dimension changes as local homologations expired/series fell over - conditions, here at least, seem to favour significant static negative camber and from a purely visual perspective, appears to be consistent with other competitors.

As to your other point....camber changes from circuit to circuit and month to month at the same circuit - temperature spread and lap time ultimately dictating the final figure. The implication that the inner shoulder would overheat is not borne out in practice. At a guess, a treaded tyre may be an entirely different animal in this regard once you add construction, block squirm and possibly toe to the equation, but...:dunno:

i'll just see how it goes, i'll keep taking readings off the tyres and find the optimal setting.