E-prod bodywork for FC
 

Have looked at the AWR bodywork inthier online catalog, but it seems pricey unless it is very light and the fit was decent. Got me wondering what everyone else is using in EProd? I suppose I could pull molds off my existing widebody fenders etc. and make up a set for the customer, but its sometimes easier to just buy what you need the first go around. I know Jgrewe and a couple of others will point me inthe right direction ;)

Jgrewe can probably send you bodywork :gwink: There is also prodbodies.com.

I used these in back and glassed over the fuel door - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92...#ht_3029wt_939

For the front, Shine Auto Project has some +30mm fronts that do not have the ricer vents. They don't advertise the fenders, you have to call or email. Only problem is I couldn't get them to clear 9.5" slicks, only 8.5" slicks. If you are running the new radials they would probably clear.

I did not see any FC bodywork on prodbodies site but I will look again.
My only issue with AWR's price is that unless it is really a lot lighter than say the Shine or similar stuff I might as well buy the cheap stuff and pull my own molds off of it. No matter what is bought at least a set of repair molds will have to be made. I dont think I have ever knowingly seen the AWR stuff in person, so I have no way of knowing if its worth it.

To me, there is a huge difference between a race body part and what is sold cheap on the "bodykit" market. The body on the Pikes Peak car is just "knockoff" parts I got cheaply, and it is IMHO pretty heavy for what it is, especially the fenders and hood. Very much like the difference between a Huffaker fender or hood for a Spridget vs what you might buy from Victoria British- The Huffaker part will be a race part, very light but strong, the VB part is likely to be typical street car tupperware, not particularly strong and much heavier. The lighter parts that are made to actually fit the wider tires etc. are worth the $$ to me.



I stil might just pull a set of molds off of the existing car for at least the fenders.

If you are going to run in EP get one of the new radials and see if it will fit under the stock body. I have not gotten my hands on one yet but I will probably be able to after the two nationals here in Fl in Jan.

Hoosier lists them as being about 1/2" narrower than the bias slicks but I'm hearing the Goodyears that aren't out yet(to the public) are pretty narrow and might fit with a little fender pulling.

If you haven't looked at the rear camber gain problem the FC has, I'll just say these cars are screaming for radials. I talked to the Hoosier guys at the PRI show last week, they are still working on a recommendations sheet but 2 to 3 degrees static camber seems to be the range thay are finding works.

I can hook you up with a body if it ever gets warm down here again but let me see how the radials fit first. I might end up making a narrower kit.

You know I was wondering about that. I was just looking at tires last night online and was thinking to call Mike at Appalachian Race Tire and see if he would maybe "save" me a decent used tire or two for fitment purposes. Suppose I could wander down to 3R and see if they have any of the new ones in and maybe call Bob Woodman on the off chance he ends up with a used set that would be OK for fitment. I did not make it to PRI, just too busy, so I am very interested in what they are going to recommend for set-up with the new tires.

EDIT: BTW it is cold where you are now but in a few weeks teams will be testing for Daytona and Sebring, and the local SCCA guys might even put ina few laps at Roebling, Moroso, etc. while I will still be just dreaming of racing and probably buried under snow. It is nice that you guys can run virtually all year though, means the chances of finding a used set of race tires in the off-season is not out of the question.

I guess Greg Ira was one of the testers down here. He has a fast Z car that chews up rear tires(bias) after about 6 or 7 laps. Hoosier guy said he had something like 13 heat cycles on a set, put a new set on and only picked up a couple tenths.

They are a little more expensive, about $40 a tire IIRC, but they last a lot longer so your tire bill for a season will go down.