Congrats to Dan Chadwick
 

Aka "Chadwick" for winning the SSM class at the SCCA National Solo2 Championship in Lincoln. He edged out Andy McKee and Erik Strelnieks in a weather-affected second day of front-running RX-7s.

Dave

Congratulations Chadwick!

Going to change anything for next season? Or stick with what works?

What was the exact weather situation? I've heard SS and FM were badly affected too. Either way, great job keeping SSM in the rotary family, even with the extra weight this year!

Wow. Very cool. Congrats Dan!

Congrats :bigthumb:

It looks like rain swept in on the second runs and Dan got a good clean one in on dry pavement. Not all of the others got that. He made up a second on the previous days' leaders and nailed that run. Last year's winner and runner-up Erik Strelnieks and Andy McKee did not appear to get any dry runs on day two, shredding their chances.

Congrats to Dan and "tinkerbell" :D As for the weather situation... that's racing. The running order is a gamble... most of the time it works for the people running later in the day... it didn't that day :)

Yes, congrats Dan! You did what you had to do and got a clean run when it was already starting to sprinkle. Given the forecast I was expecting just a quick light rain, but unfortunately it turned into steady rain enough to wet the whole course. At least an RX-7 won! :-)

-Andy M.

Thanks to everyone for the congratulations.

We have a bit more to do to be fully prepped (if that is really possible), had to run with 3/4's of a tank of gas to keep from fuel starving so we will fix that issue and drop 70lbs of unneeded weight. Will also be adding drop spindles for roll center correction and Series 28 Koni's for better damping with the higher spring rates that will be going on the car.

We had a series of issues right before Nationals that keep us from getting the full potential out of the motor so we only had 350 rwhp., 300 rwt. We should be able to squeeze out another 30-40 rwhp by upping the boost and more aggressive timing/split. I didn't want to push the tuning on the dyno without the water injection running and a less than perfect ignition system (we lost the Jacobs unit the week before and had to switch to an HKS driving stock coils).

Thanks Andy, I couldn't ask to run against better competitors than you and Erik. I thought for sure this was your year, especially after watching your car on the first day. Sorry it had to come down to the weather. I knew when the drops started to hit my windshield that I better make it quick and clean... fortunately I did.

Thanks,
Dan

Very nice man!!! :)


.

Congrats!

Drop spindles huh, who's doing the design and fabrication or are you getting these?

I will be eventually making my own machined from billet drop spindles, but that will be awhile.

Are you going to add a swirl pot of some sort? That is the route I am looking at.


I am very curious about the drop spindles.

Sounds like you had quite the laundry list of issues to fight against. I probably would have hit things with a hammer.

Again, congrats. It sounds like you came down to crunch time and you got things done.

FD FTW :icon_tup: Nothing better than seeing any sort of racing results showing that these cars are still not only competing but winning at the national level. CONGRATS!!!!

Regarding the fuel loss sounds like you're going with a small cell and reservoir?

Really have not decided yet, I don't want to cut the car for a fuel cell nor do I want to be filling it up from the inside. I also don't like external swirl pots and all the extra plumping they require. Right now I'm leaning towards an in tank surge tank and secondary in tank pump that picks up on the right side of the tank. I have also considered modifying the stock tank by reducing its size internally.

Most likely going with the SP-Tec ones pictured above.

I normally resist using a hammer while working on cars for just that reason :D.

Thanks!


Dan

congrats man, nice meeting you on sunday, loved the car
I'll just leave these two things here

http://www.1320video.com/img/album19...6188.sized.jpg
http://www.1320video.com/gallery/album192?page=1

Chadwick, Are you running Hyperion's fuel slosh cover?

Interesting, I'm plan on making an in-tank swirl tank this winter similar to the pictures posted, but with a in tank low pressure/high volume pump to feed the swirl tank. I could make another one while I'm at it if your interested.

In- tank is definitely the direction I am leaning towards I am attempting to keep a very stock like interior, so it only seems fitting to hide a swirl pot inside the already massive fuel tank. Are you thinking about using an external fuel pump or mounting a second on inside the tank?

I have been talking with a member on here (Tweak Games) about isolating a section of the factory fuel tank off. Basically creating a partition (roughly 3 gallons or so) and it could be used as a back-up reservoir for water injection, or just left empty, Heck, in your case, you could just cut the ends off and run 14 gallons total. ;) Or less. I am not quite sure of your intentions yet.


Correct me if I am wrong, but these will allow you to lower the center of gravity of the vehicle without actually changing the position of your a-arms? This would mean you are not compromising against the stock geometry of the suspension travel? I seem to remember that Howard Coleman had measured a 3 degree negative camber difference through the ideal range on the fd's suspension travel. If those drop spindles allow you to drop your cg without sacrificing the negative camber effect... It sounds like a no brainer/perfect mod.

No matter how many times I try to convince myself... the "shot peen" finish does not belong on the engine...

Correct, non of the suspension geometry is affected. Though custom coilovers with reduced overall travel are needed or larger bump stops put in place to prevent the tires from touching the frame/fender liners.

Dan, you deserve this after all the bad luck you have had over the years at nationals. A lot of time has been put into the car and it is nice to see it finally pay off. Now we got to work on the list for next year plus take some time to put together your new toy too.

Andy, it was nice to finally meet you and I look forward to running against you, Theresa, Erik, Beth and Dan next year. Maybe we can take the top 6 spots. I wonder if Dan will want me to be the first driver or if he is planning on keeping his lucky spot?

Brian Johns

Yes, worked good until we got the setup dialed in, now not so much.

Thanks, but I want to keep the fuel level sensor intacted so we will have to come up with a different setup.

Inside the tank, I don't want any external plumbing or pumps.

Cutting the tank in half has been bounced around. That way we keep the fill neck and stock plumbing, but won't have to worry about fuel slosh or the extra weight of the other half of the tank.


You're right on the money!


LOL

Depends on the weather forcast for that weekend :D


Dan

Thanks for stopping by and hanging out with us for a bit, was a pleasure to meet you.

Dan

Yeah, I was thinking about that as well yesterday. I'm in the same boat, would like to keep the fuel level sensor.

I may just remove the original "surge" tank and make a taller box section in that area with the LP/HV pump bolted to the box or trap doors in place similar to the one pictured below. CrispyRX7's oil pan fyi.

Trap doors are out of a BMW E30 M3 baffled sump. They are called "non-return flaps" and run about $28 a pop. OEM Part # 11 13 1 309 428

Anyways, GL with your winter projects.

Adam

I'm guessing the rules will not permit a dry break system?

Congrats by the way!

Atomic rex does an intank conversion in the uk where they foam fill the tank and install a collector pot (has 3 trap doors so the collector pot is filled during acceleration and turning left and right) with a bosch fuel pump sat in the collector pot. whilst it wouldnt be financially feasible for them to send you a converted tank, they may be able to do it in kit form for you with instructions. I will try to dig out more info for you on one of the uk forums.

shamelessly cut and pasted from MRC- looks like they will do it as a kit.


We do the kit for this if you are interested??

You can buy the full kit from us
Fitted £867.17 + VAT (£997.25) + £50 deposit on sending us your tank
Parts £642.17 + VAT (£738.50)

This come with a collector pot, this is equivalent to a 2L swirl pot, and is filled under acceleration as well as cornering. There is a sock filter situated in the collector pot, and is piped into the internal Bosch 044 pump. And the return is piped back into the collector pot.

SO what comes with the kit:
Collector Pot
Internal Nitrile pipe both high and low pressure
Foam block
Foam inserts to fill tank
Bosch 044 Pump inc fittings
Aluminium bespoke Top plate
2 bespoke brass 90 degree fittings with Barbed ends for hose fittings.
Electrical seal
Wired kit
Top venting pipes and fittings
Fuel Level Probe correct ratings for standard Fuel gauge.

The fuel level probe needs to be changed as unless you want to put a mesh around the standard level the foam will prevent it reading accurately. If you don't want this, remove £135.68 + VAT (£156.03)

The motorsport one way valve fitted here is an extra £45 (£49.50)

It probably appears expensive, but with this system you are able to run the tank to below 10L of fuel, and there are no external swirl pots in the boot. Also as all items are in the fuel tank it is a lot safer. There are also no smells within the cabin you normally have with swirl pots.

Plus if you add the costs of putting together a system including fuel pumps, lines, swirl pot, fire guard, you will probably find the cost very similar.

http://www.atomicrex.co.uk/downloads...k/IMG_0289.JPG
http://www.atomicrex.co.uk/downloads...k/IMG_0288.JPG

The rules are pretty open other than a 5 gallon minimum and the fuel cell must be separated from the driver by a metal bulkhead. I don't see how a dry fit system would help at all; the problem is fuel starvation in high G left hand sweepers, not getting fuel into the car.

I'm leaning pretty heavily towards a modified stock tank, that way I can keep the fuel level sensor and stock fuel door for filling. I just haven't decided on a slice and dice or a larger in tank surge with some added baffling.

Thanks!

Personally, I would probably run a larger in tank surge tank. And then decide how much of the tank to remove. Also, adding baffling to limit how fast and far the fuel can transfer from side to side is something I am considering. I am sure the weight of the fuel sliding side to side has to have an ill effect somewhere when you are on the traction threshold.

Check out Big Al's fuel system, its the one I was referring to. He's running a small tank that has fuel flowing through it at all times using a low pressure pump. The high pressure pump takes fuel from the small tank and delivers it to the engine.
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/bigals-fd-20b-racecar-project-747809/page5/

Dan,

A belated congratulations to both you and your car.

My overseas travels these last number of weeks have keep me out of touch and I lost track of the time.

one small observation of the pictures I took, your friend (who's name I don't remember) that you were talking about not having his face in any pictures in your build thread on Rotary car club, his face shows up a few times in the pictures I took.

Yeah, his name is Brian (aka Wilson) :D

Here is a link to a compulation video from the 2009 Solo National Championship:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzWGwBd0DBg

My car shows up at 2:28 :)

Dan

I'd hold on tight to that Solo Nats trophy. The club of SSM racers who beat both Eric S. & Andy M. seems pretty exclusive. Do you know any good rain dances?

congrats Dan!

Now to have some of that greatness rub off on me once I get my rex out and start running the course with ya. his and brents cars are two that I see the most on the track here. Hopefully soon you will see mine and a yellow rx3.

chadwick carson