Brake pedal problem
 

Does anyone know if the brake pedal can be adjusted a bit ?
I mean - while pressed, it goes too deep for successful heel-toeing (sidestepping technique). This can become quite dramatic when downshifting to 2nd gear at the track (i.e. rears blocking up, etc).

How does everyone else go around it ?

I never had such problems in my other daily cars (mostly Hondas) - usually there the brake pedal sits a bit higher then gas pedal so when braking the height of the brake pedal is just right to blip the gas.

Are you using SS brake lines? That will firm up the pedal a bit.

When I added SS lines to my car it dramatically increased the brake feel and travel. Now when fully depressed it's still even with the accellerator and makes for a great heel-toe position. Now if I could only get that last pocket of air out of the lines....

I've heard about them, have you used this system? Does it work well? The only other one I've seen is the Griot's Garage pressure bleeder and it's $$$$$!

Yep, it works wonders. A buddy of mine has one and I've been using his. I ordered one for myself over the weekend. It's a must if you plan on tracking your car a lot (switching pads, bleeding/pressurizing the system, etc).

SS brake lines arent high on my list atm. I just thought if I could move the pedal a bit higher or something.

Exxxxcellent. I'll order one ASAP :bigthumb:

I don't know what year RX-7 you are driving but FDs and FCs have an adjustment on the pushrod that goes from the brake pedal to the master cylinder. You have to loosen a jamb nut and turn the rod to change the length exposed. Don't crank it too much otherwise you will have a dragging brake situation.

One my first gen I just bent the gas pedal to match.

-Trent

Pushrod adjustment seems to work, there was a thread on it a while back.

I'm planning to adjust it this weekend, myself. Apparently after you adjust it, start the car with it on jackstands, and make sure the brakes aren't dragging. The engine has to be running because the vacuum on the brake booster can affect things. I just drove an RX-8 and the pedal feel was wonderful - touch the pedal and the brakes applied. I want that or something close in my '7.

-=Russ=-

Hmm... can someone please elaborate on this pushrod adjustment ? A pic would be awesome :)

I do not quite understand what needs to be done.

By dragging brakes, do you mean brakes are constantly applied ?

In the attached picture you will see what I am talking about. The rod that you turn is forward of the jamb nut. Once the jamb nut is loose you can turn the rod. Turning the rod threads it out of that clevis extending it towad the master cyclinder making the pedal application sooner.

How nice !!

Thanks mate.

Well, I'd been planning to do it at the master cylinder end... any adjustments there? Specifically, I was unable to get that locking nut freed up. It's on there TIGHT, and I was afraid of breaking the pedal mounts.

-=Russ=-

Get some PB Buster and soak the nut with it for 30 min or so. It should break loose then.

I have just ordered the speedbleeders (what an easy transaction) to do a proper bleeding myself and see how much of a lousy job my mechanic did on last fluid change :)

PaulyDee, I just did this pushrod adjustment - indeed a 5min work - and it turned my brakes into what they should be. Little dead travel, and when brakes are fully applied brake pedal is still above the gas pedal, thus allowing me to heel-toe easily.

Not to mention that my mechanic did a lousy job at replacing my brake fluid. He put in my ATE Super Blue and before there was some old yellow fluid in there. When I installed speed bleeders, guess which color of brake fluid came out ? The yellow one... the old fluid.

And I was wondering why I kept on boiling the fluid on the track :eek:

Anyway, I installed speedbleeders and bled the brakes with fresh ATE Super Blue.

With the new toe-link in right rear and new straight through exhaust next track event will be interesting. I think I will be able to finally be faster then those BMW M's :D