Battery relocation question
I'm fairly sure about where I want it located. Passenger side storage area. But, has anyone actually used the battery to corner weigh your car and find the best location for it?
If the battery is in the passenger compartment are we required to have it in a battery box or atleast covered? This will be in my FP car for soloII only. |
I remembered reading that you did have to have it in a battery box.
dont you have to have lights and stuff for racing? i mean like brake lights? it looks like you dont have any wiring. |
oh yah mariah motorsports sells a battery relocation kit with all the wiring and all to make it easier for you.
www.mariahmotorsports.com |
Thanks Rs4Racer. Not required to have any lights in Prepared. You are allowed to remove them.
I'll check out the link to Mariah Motorsports. I'm probably just going to buy the prefabed cables in the length I need and buy a battery box. What's special about the batter box. Its not a sealed container. Its just plastic with a lid that you need to strap on(LOL like Butthead- I said strap on). |
You might also concider going with an optima or excide battery since a conventional battery emmits toxic fumes while it is charging.
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what are some race legal battery boxes?...heard they have to be sealed, but then have a venting line or something. I have an optima blue top battery - bigger than the others...lots of CA
10"L x 7"W x 8.5" H I need to buy one here pretty soon. |
i dont think there is anything special about the battery box its just that its a complete kit with everything youll need to finish the job.
you can definatly do it alot cheaper if you get the parts from different places. |
what are the requirements for mounting the battery when you dont have a rear firewall (hatchback like we all have)??
does the box have to be of a certain thickness, material, sealing, etc??? I may be competing in different sanctioning bodies, so whatever is the strictest would help me out....probably NHRA if i was to guess... |
NHRA requires a sealed, externally venter box, even if you run a gel battery. You must also have an external kill switch on the car.
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I would recommend putting it behind the driver. If the car is on the road, at least the passenger could recline the seat to sleep while the driver is driving.
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?????
how bout the passenger holds my drink i dont think i'll have a sleeping passenger while i run around the track....so i'll go for behind the passenger for better weight distribution... |
just put it in the bin behind the passenger they can still recline.
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ok
question is not where to put it bins are gone it will go where passenger side bin would be question IS and WAS...what are rules for relocating the battery for competition use |
Thanks suganuma for setting everyone straight. It seams the longer threads last the more off subject they get no matter where they are located in the forum. I've already got the answer I needed.
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Originally posted by suganuma ????? how bout the passenger holds my drink i dont think i'll have a sleeping passenger while i run around the track.... how about the passenger sticks her head in my lap :D |
Originally posted by Scott 89t2 LMAO. how about the passenger sticks her head in my lap :D Uh huh... :boink: :D |
Could you just run the wire from the underhood fuse block to the main cable on the starter instead of the battery? Seems like that would save me from running like 4 more feet of wire.
I have an FC fuse block on my first gen, and I want to put my battery in the passenger side bin. |
the starter wire doesn't go to the fuse block. it goes right to the battery with no fuse (stock). run a wire from the battery to fuse block area. then split it, one to starter wire, one to fuse block. that's what I did.
of course with the moved battery, you want a main fuse at the battery. 200amp or so |
I know the big (2 ga?) wire doesn't go to the fuse block. The (I'm guessing its about a 12 ga) wire from the main fuse goes directly to the battery. I'm not about to run 4-6 more feet of that wire if I can just run it down to the starter instead. I'm trying to do away with wiring, not add more. In theory, that would be the same as having it hooked to the battery like it is now, since it'd be hooked directly to the 2ga wire, just on the opposite end.
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Felix has it right. Run your large wire to the starter. Then from the starter run a slightly smaller wire to the underhood fuse box. Those are the only two wires you need to worry about. The alternator wires run out of the fuse box so you don't even need to touch them. I have a vert so I put the battery in the trunk on the passengers side. I'll dig up a pic.
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oh yeah! be sure to "fuse" the line close to the battery. Any wire running that long should be fused close to its source of electricity. I use a 150 amp fuse. And as you can see I justed used the stock battery box, secured down by the stock straps. It was preaty simple if ya ask me. I noticed a slight decrease in steering effort after the switch using a manual rack. It also makes jump starting the car a little easier since most of the time, when it dies, it is in the garage "face first," so now all you have to do is pull another car up behind it and you're in business.
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so you HAVE to run a fuse by the battery?
I havent been... |
You don't "HAVE" to do anything. But if your large cable gets cut open along the way you will be kicking yourself when you see your car go up in flames. My brother had a large stereo in his car and the power wire which was only 8 guage got pinched and burned a nice 2 inch strip the entire length of the wire through the carpet. With a larger 1 guage wire the damage could be a lot worse. A fuse is a $30-40 safety feature which might save you a bundle in the future. It might even save you life in an accident. That little old battery in your car is probably the most dangerous piece of equipment riding around with you. When one of those puppies explodes, you better hope you're not in the area.
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