battery relocation
 

where can i find battery cables long enough to lead back to the storage bins?

Use welding cables. Or buy bulk from an auto electric place

Car stereo shop. $$$

mine came from walmart, its in the drivers side bin

Re: battery relocation
 

Summit Racing
You get an entire kit with a battery box for like 50bucks.

Anthony

home depot sells 1-2 gauge 0node wire which cost like 15-25 cents for a foot :D

home depot or lowes is a great place to get them...

sh*t, thanks guys i didnt think you could use car stereo wire..I have some 0 gauge for a 1000 watt amp, would this work for both power and ground?

That would work, but it would be overkill

over kill? like too big? then what would be good?

2 AWG seems to be a popular choice. Lowe's has it cheap. If I was looking right, it was $0.99/foot.

ok, now what would i do to wire it...just connect it to my existing cables and re wire to the bin? or is there another way?

I am not sure if all FCs are like mine, but I have a smaller gauge wire going from the alternator directly to the positive terminal, as well as the main pos. going to the starter.

can you show me how you have that hooked up? im a bit curious about it...thanks..

well, can somone show me there set up? or do i have to just rigit like i do everything else lol...or could somone just tell me where i have to connect the battery to teh alternator?

I would show you mine but it is not done. You have a few things to consider, though, and you should be fine. Your pos. terminal supplies the starter motor, alternator, and fuse block. Just extend the wires that connect these things to the pos. terminal and REALLY insulate them (wrap them with plastic sheathing that you can buy at autozone, etc.) . If one of those wires were to touch your chassis you could have a fire.

would it be a better idea to just take where the normal pos and neg end on the battery and cut the clamps off and splice the section of wire to make up for the distance instead of elongating three wires?

hehe i like the cars in your sig getcrazy. they look high :O

The battery is in the trunk, the cable runs from there to the starter. The cable runs from the starter to the alternator. From the alternator it runs to the main fuse box under the hood. A staight shot from back to front. For some reason the stock setup seems to jump around a bit.

This is the layout I have suggested in my post in the 2nd gen forum, the only thing they told me to add was a 200 A fuse breaker right by the battery off the + terminal.

Battery + to starter +
Battery - to chassis ground
Starter + to alternator post
Alternator post to power side of MAIN 100 A fuse
Starter - to chassis ground

Also maybe connect the battery - and starter -

My post -

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=178781

EDIT - and oddly enough I didn't bother looking at the last post before mine. D'oh!

Thanks for all your help! I'm gonna get to it when i get some wire!


Thnaks. May the Red rest in piece lol. It's a pretty easy setup ;)

Seeing the sleepy eyes again really makes me miss my 2nd gen :(

BTW, get a sealed gel-cell battery (Optima red top is what I use) and thereby eliminate the need for a battery box and breathers and all that BS. You can also mount it in any position which is really convenient. Good luck.

I believe that NHRA and SCCA won't care that it's a sealed gel cell battery, as they can still vent gases. If you want to be lgeal for SCCA autocross or your local NHRA strip, you need to have a sealed and vented box.

I'm gonna get the setup from summit racing..Just curious about thw wireing to the alternator and the starter, do they all need to be the same gauge wire as the battery wire?

I have not had a problem with the SCCA guys yet with my setup. I was told the first day that they like the positive terminal to be covered up by something (and of course it has to be secure enough to never move) but nothing else. Maybe it is just less strict here, but I've yet to have a problem at autocrosses.