AWR Suspension part for FC3S
 

I wonder did any one on fourm use them ? I am think to buy their rear camber adj... and want to make my own REAR ADJUSTABLE TOE LINK KIT. from what I look that is two tide rod end. so should not be too hard to make... also wonder, If I replace should I keep the factory toe adj bolt or not ???

thanks for any advice

J

I've been looking at these parts myself. The camber adj. link can't be replaced by two rod ends, there aren't any short enough to do a simple male/female thread together unless you cut a bunch off the threads. Then if you do that the adjustment process is such a pain because you would need to remove one end, turn it, reassemble, then check the camber, and you'll be fighting to keep things in line to put the fasteners back in when its apart. If you come up with something simple that solves those problems post a picture, I'll do the same.
Keep the factory toe bolts unless you replace the links that go from the hub to the center of the sub-frame(at an angle) with ones that have rod ends that can be adjusted.

I have the camber adjusters. They are good quality and AWR is a good place to buy parts from.

I just installed the camber adjuster links last week. The install couldn't be simpler. The parts are very well made and the adjusting process is super simple. I am mostly into drag racing and by shortening the adjusters I was able to dial out all of the negative camber. This really helped my launch. I have no doubt that these will help anyone that is into auto-x, road race or drag racing.
I also have a set of the spherical rear control arm bushings, but I have installed them yet.

Andrew

Tony from AWR has alot of great products and is a very good guy to deal with. I use all his rear suspension parts. They make the rear suspension adjustable and has made the car alot faster. Follow his directions and buy all the parts from him, it will simplify the installation(trust me). He includes a couple of small parts with the bushing kit that helps. you can make your own toe link but it will only save you $20-$30 bucks and you will have to drill out the control arm for the larger heim.

If you purchase the entire rear assembly, they usually completely disable the stock toe adjustment. Its optional.

the stock toe adjustment has to be locked in for the AWR system to work its best. This accomplished by adding a custom piece to remove the slotted opening in the control arm mount. If you don't do this as well as add the monoball bushings you will bind the stock or urethane bushing and this will cause all sorts of wear and poor suspension performance. The slotted piece tends to shift during racing use. This setup is not difficult to install but it does need to be done correctly for it to work properly.

Tim, are there anywhere where your tidbits are detailed on AWR's site? My only complaint about the site/parts would be that several of their parts have no instructions, or suggestions to make them work properly, and or to their greatest potential. At a minimum, this is a lack of marketing, but really, it is an essential component that ought to be included with the parts. I know that the thought is likely that these parts are being used by folks that just ought to know, but even the best tuners can benefit from the additional info provided by a parts fabricator. That, is the difference between a dominant successful ofering, and one that just does OK. I imagine AWR would like to sell as many as possible to folks who will benefit. Thanks, Carl

Carl,
All points are valid and Tony has embraced some of your suggestions. The website has brought him and his company out into the light so anything more will be difficult. This is a top flight race fabrication shop and they tend to deal with race engineers and race mechanics. So you are right that they tend to assume that you already know how everything works. It is hard to describe all the small spacers and adapters that come with the suspension parts. It really is not difficult but it is critical to get all the parts. with your technical knowledge you should have it all together in a weekend. I bought the control arm bushings, camber adjusters, and toe links. these are all monoball and rod end bushings so there are a few spacers that need to be tack welded into place. I didn't buy the subframe bushings but I should have. If you have any questions call Tony or me . Tell him Tim from Realride racing sent you.

Thanks Tim, I have Bennys old set. They (the Toe links) are a little larger than what AWR currently supplies. I think Tony said he would trade them for a newer/smaller set. The company I work for was sold today to Home Depot, we found out via the newspaper, so raciing is on hold while I look for a new job....

sorry, about the job situation. I am sure you'll find something quick.

Ouch, sorry to hear that Carl. See you in June!

I might not be looking at this correctly, so bear with me.

The "camber link" is the piece on the inboard side of the control arm that connects it to the subframe, yes? Sort of turning the swingarm suspension into something with a more SLA type camber curve.

Given how short that link is, any camber change would mean a drastic change in the length of that link percentange-wise, no? I would imagine this would drastically affect the rear suspension's camber curve. Has anyone mapped the camber curve before and after adjustment?

I am picturing something Evil in mind... altering the camber curve with the link length, then adjusting the camber by changing the length of the subframe support rod.

the original camber adjusting link(if you installed one) can be left fixed. all cambe adjustment is done by the small inboard link. I have plotted the rear(or front for that matter) suspension to see what the camber or toe curves are. I can tell you from experience that the rear is much better. The best aspect is being able to get the same camber and toe settings from side to side. I personally was not able to do this with the OEM setup and the adjustable camber link. I can say that the tire wear is drasticly better and the handling is neutral to slight understeer. The original setup I had wore tires quickly and was always loose. These parts are in use by alot of well known racers and all seem to be happy and fast.