Accusump
 

DID any body install this on their race car or street car. I wonder can I install an oil filter between the unit and the engine. also wnder when ur engine has full oil pressure will accsump oil still flow to the engnie. and when U shut off the engine will those dirty oil get to the accusump?
thanks for hlep

I think you can set the pressure for the accusump. So if you set it for 70psi (# picked at random) of oil pressure then if your engine drops below 70psi then oil will flow from the accusump to the engine. If the oil pressure in the engine is greater than 70 psi, oil will flow into the accusump.
I'm kind of confused about your question with the filter. It sounds like you are worried about getting "dirty" engine oil into the accusump. It's the same oil that's keeping your (more expensive) engine from destroying itself...

not a necessay part for rotaries and IMO not needed on any properly setup race engine. I have seen these items cause racers more problems than they solve. only real advantage is they can pre oil the engine before starting.

Pre-oiling your engine is nice. Just make sure you get an electrical solenoid. You will forget to close a manual valve.

Yes an accusump in a band-aid for a non dry-sumped engine or a poorly designed oil pan. It will solve a lot of problems. If you are in a long curve ( TURN 2 willow springs or 8&9), you will probably use up the reserve in the accusump and spin a bearing. Just depends on what you plan on doing with your car. I have seen many who get by without them. Ask someone ( Who is competitive) running a similar car.

I know many people who use them and swear by them.
I will consider putting one in my 3RD GEN if I ever get to the point where I want to run large slicks

what kind of problem will cause? the most I can think is leak!!

the biggest and most frequent problem I see is the accusump will fool the gauge and it will apear there is plenty of oil pressure when there is not enough. what happens is when there are prolonged loses of oil in the pan(on a wet sumped engine) the oil tends to go towards filling and maintaining the accusump. fluids will go the path of least resistance. so the oil pump is starving and sucking oil and air and not maintaining a constant pressure and flow to the engine. the accusump is then dumping its oil, but at the same time the oil system is trying to refill the accusump. this is then robbing the engine of the small amount of oil available(the engine will use up a 3 quart accusump in seconds). I have seen people who have had one failure after another while maintaining good oil pressure at the gauge, but when the accusump was valved off the loss of oil pressure was seen. with the rotary engines as long as you are using the baffle that is available from many vendors you should not see any problems(even turn 2 or better yet turn 8 at Willow Springs). if you are building a new engine use the turbo oil pump and 93 and newer rear oil pressure regulator and you should have no problem. I have run my enigine with this configuration and have never had an oiling problem. I also built and am curently crew chiefing an American Stockcar Challenge(ASC) car which uses a wet sump small block chevy engine and with a proper road racing oil pan we have not had any oiling problems at all. we just finished a weekend at Willow Springs running lap times under 1:30 without any problems(at least with the oiling system or engine). I feel it is a very expensive pre oiling system.

thank you tims. NOW is make sence now. on my rotary engine I had baffle plate. 13 REW oil pump and presure spring. I had 120 PSI at full throtle. however can you install a one way valve to prevent the oil to get back to accusump? that what they list on their web site

you would need a way to fill the accusump up after startup. the check valve is to make sure oil from accusump does not go back to the pan, but instead goes to the crank and bearings(remember path of least resistance).

OOOOHHH -:noyes:- Consistent laps - Under 1:30 - What fun.

if you want to see some real speed at willow springs stop by this saturday night and see some pro drivers run under 1:20's at night in the POC's tribute to lemans race. last year the qualifying time was under 1:19.

I would love to but I have to make money to pay for my speeding addiction. It isn't cheap as I am sure everyone is aware

Ok I know this an old subject but i work for the company that manfactures them and it seems that TIMs really has no good concept of how it works. The guage will only fool you if you didnt isntall it correctly. On a daily basis we get calls on how much this product helps them and we deal with guys with 3,500 hp engines. We have customers that use them in everything. One particular customer who will be using on soon is a guy named jeff jones. He has a 20B drift car and he will be using one. It doesnt starve your engine at all. You have people who put it in and dont accomodate the extra 3 quarts of oil it will need so they run it with the system capacity and wonder why their oil pressure is low. The EPC valve is a valve that only discharges oil below a certain pressure point. You cant set it becuase the pressure switch is alreayd set at a pressure level. We have 3 different switches and its not rocket science as to how they work. Now these products have been around for over 30 years and can you explain if its such a bad product for your engine that some people still use the same unit they did 30 years ago in their race cars. We get them back all the time for rebuildds. They used to be called MECCA units and we get the mecca's back for rebuilds and theyre over 30 years old still going strong. Ourrace cars all have them and NOT ONE have we had and issue with them. Not to mention that 99.999% of the time we have a customer call with issues, It was an installation error. People try to remote mount the gauge and not accomodate the extra air space that needs to be filled and alot of people do not precharge it correctly.

Hmmm, so what is the recommended size for a 13B? Three quarts? I just spun my bearings at the Lightning on the "Light Bulb".

I had one on my Solo2 Mustang and it worked perfectly. Before it was installed it was possible to set off the low oil pressure warning light during a run. This was despite a deep sump baffled pan that held more oil than stock. I wouldn't run a small block Ford without one

My STU Rx7 will have one too. At Gateway Intl at St Louis I saw my oil pressure light flicker in turn 6 lap after lap. My 12A has a pan baffle, Mazdaspeed deep sump pan and adjustable, high pressure releifs.

Properly plumbed an Accusump provides an oil supply when pump pickup in the pan starts sucking air. When the pump in the pan catches up, it takes over automatically. All of this happens in seconds...the bearings never starve for oil.

My installation will use the manual valve - Once it becomes a habit, you don't forget to open and close it at the right time. The electric valves don't work as advertised - not worth the money.