3 Gen Track Only Setup
 

I was wondering if anyone would share what kind of alignment u guys use one a track only FD.

My setup now is pretty close to stock but id like to try somthing else. And i was wondering if anyone have some numbers for me to try out.

Current Suspension equiptment on the car is.
Tein RE coilovers
RE Trailing Arms and Toe Links
Yokohama A048R tiers 285/30-18 in the rear and 265/35-18 up front.
Kaaz Diff 100% lock :(
RE-Amemiya GT Wing and Rear Diffuser.
GT300 Body Kit
Full Role Cage

Car weigh about 1180 kg, and is alittle bit more heavy in the rear then front.

The problem i had this summer was that the car was understearing in to the corner. Getting it to overstear was just pushing the throttle, but it kinda understear out of the corner too. And im guessing it has alot to do with setup.

So if anyone got some experience with setup on a track only FD id apriciate it.

JT

I am not a pro with track setups but I have used a Kazz LSD for quite a few years and I'd say at 100% lock is a bad idea for track, it can be adjusted. I just did mine last week, to 33% lock up.

Thanks been looking for that. Do u change the plates on both sides? Or just 1 side?

And is there any other setup? Id like to have 80% locking, but im guessing that is not possible.

JT

The width of the tires will play a big role in the camber and but usually -2 up front with a little toe and -1 out back neutral.

There's on a old saying and it goes like this; tight slides first.

It's that simple.

Nobody can give you any advice without knowing exactly what setup you have but seriously the above does hold true. So the front is tighter than the rear. The quick change is to lower the air pressure in the front and raise it in the rear.

If you have adj sway bars loosen the front and tighten the rear.

If you have adj shocks lighten the front and stiffen the rear.

Lastly change the spring rates.

If you're running offset tires run equal sizes.

Usually the only time I have trouble with an FD pushing (these cars have some of the best turn in available) is when entering too slow so your driving will also play a big roll in how the car handles.

Both sides, and 66% is more then enough. Changing the lock up doesn't weaken the unit, it just eliminates the clunking and slow speed turn problems.

I have been playing with alignment lately at the track heres what I've done:

I have been checking tire temps with a pyro.

Rear: -1 and 0 toe seems to work well. Haven't changed it lately.
Front: running 0 to 1/16" toe-in
-2.1 didn't seem to be enough 15-20 F hotter on outside
-3.8 was too much 10-15 F hotter on inside
My next event is in two weeks and I'll be running new endless function X's with the front set at:
-2.9 camber and 0 toe.
Toyo site says the RA-1's need http://www.toyo.com.au/Pit%20Lane.htm
I'm running toyos but thats my setup notes.
setup in sig

BTW, I set the Nasa TT-S lap record at PIR with the -3.8 setting. Lap time 1:08:36 according to the local TT director.

For the aligment on the track if you are getting into it and dont mind doing some testing. Get you a temp gun and adjust the camber untill you get about the same temp across the tire this is how you know you are using all the tire to get the most grip in the turns. This will take some time to get it right but once you do you will notice. I would set the toe close to zero and go from there for that.

I have Toyos too, darkside info is consistant with my FD as well, neg camber at 2º+ up front is not unreasonable, even a little toe (1/8) out in the front can promote better turn in, but not for a street/track car.........my FC (hoosiers) uses more neg camber up front but on a Fc is there ever too much? .....

Thanks for the reply guys.

Fritz, i think the setup that's on my car is pretty similar to that. But i was running 0 toe in the front. So that will need a change.

The car has imense grip, but it corners to slow. If i try to go faster trough the corners it will just understeer. So il need to try and find a way for it to get more grip in the front.

Have anyone of u tried working with the ride hight, and other adjustments like caster on the car?

JT

your kaaz at 100%. both tires want to spin at same speed. when my kaaz was at 100%, i used to get major understeer. now its at 33% and no more low speed push.

you didn't mentioned your front sway bar. if its adjustable, put it on softer setting.

I forgot about that. I have the Racing Beat Sway bar kit. With front and back.

With this kit, it's only the rear that is adjustable.

And i think it's at it's stiffest.

JT

The only thing I have to add here, is that as Howard C says, we (FD owners) have a 'proper' race car suspension that gains camber with suspension travel. So even if you static setting is -2 or -2.5ish your dynamic camber *when the wheel is under load and actually needs it* is higher. Many (most?) cars do not have this setup, so they have to run higher static camber to compensate.

Not sure I've seen a forumla on the boards for camber gain as it relates to suspension travel, but I haven't looked that hard either.

FWIW, I have run -2.0-2.1 static camber on the front of my car (and -1.3ish on the back) with the RA-1's from full tread down to almost cords and haven't had any issue with strange wear or unequal tire temps. I did flip the tires on the rims about half way through to make sure I use them all up.