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I recently put a power fc in my car and it has been running terrible. If the car is cold it will idle for 5-10 minutes and eventually the rpm will drop so low that it stalls. If it has been warmed up, it requires a bit of throttle to get it to start, and if I let off after it is started the car will stall. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Originally Posted by xXBrendanXx
(Post 11967525)
I recently put a power fc in my car and it has been running terrible. If the car is cold it will idle for 5-10 minutes and eventually the rpm will drop so low that it stalls. If it has been warmed up, it requires a bit of throttle to get it to start, and if I let off after it is started the car will stall. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
i assume you went through the idle learn procedure and adjusted the throttle bleed screw? |
Originally Posted by thorin
(Post 11967864)
i assume you went through the idle learn procedure and adjusted the throttle bleed screw? |
Originally Posted by xXBrendanXx
(Post 11967957)
Yes I did, I brought it out a half turn from fully in. I have done the idle learn a few times but it doesn't make it all the way through as the car stalls itself out.
other things I can think of: when the car is "running like crap", can you look at the exhaust, or even your narrowband voltage to determine if you are running very rich or very learn? when the car is cold, there is a correction factor applied to richen it up. you can change this with the commander. you can also use the commander to apply a % correction factor to the whole map at once. this will get reset when you turn the car off. look at your fuel injector % in the 'monitor' page' and see if they are around 5% at idle. when the car is warm. turn OFF the 02 feedback and idle ignition correction features so your car is running open loop while you diagnose this. are you running an air pump? did you check your TPS sensor voltages? did you cut the 4 wires at the ECU connector if your car is USDM? |
Use all your skills, hopefully you have some tuning skills about using the commander ,you adjust fuel, and air. Just keep the car running until fully warmed up.
After warmed up set the idle speeds you want for all three values and setup conditions for it to work best. You have to know how to adjust the setting in the PFC for your injectors, map sensor, ISC or no ISC, and air pump or no air pump. A fully warmed up engine is the starting tuning point for all other tuning. Then redo the learning process after resetting the PFC. Next day you start a cold start and work on the cold idle enrichment table. |
I have been messing around with it for the past few days and managed to get it to idle 850-900rpm. However, when I was in stop and go traffic the car would stall itself out when in neutral as the brakes were applied. It then started to surge and now idles at 1200-1500. I am not familiar with tuning the power fc so I can't mess around with it too much.
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Originally Posted by thorin
(Post 11968232)
you do the 'reset all settings' in the commander and then cycle they key before doing the learn, right? other things I can think of: when the car is "running like crap", can you look at the exhaust, or even your narrowband voltage to determine if you are running very rich or very learn? when the car is cold, there is a correction factor applied to richen it up. you can change this with the commander. you can also use the commander to apply a % correction factor to the whole map at once. this will get reset when you turn the car off. look at your fuel injector % in the 'monitor' page' and see if they are around 5% at idle. when the car is warm. turn OFF the 02 feedback and idle ignition correction features so your car is running open loop while you diagnose this. are you running an air pump? did you check your TPS sensor voltages? did you cut the 4 wires at the ECU connector if your car is USDM? |
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