Ford 3.7L V6 fc
#401
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I doubt you need any of the actual body harnesses as long as you have the needed pigtails it would be easy enough to make your own harness for things like the OBDII port, ignition switch, DBW pedal, etc, no reason to strip down a factory harness to just a few wires when you can just build a harness with just a few wires to begin with...much less work.
Why in the world are you going to use a TKO? the factory six speed is perfectly sufficient for the application...most of the issues people experience are tied to the factory remote-shifter setup, and there are multiple ways to solve that(Mine now feels like a T5 with a steeda Tri-Ax with my mods) a TKO would just run up the cost for little reason.
Why in the world are you going to use a TKO? the factory six speed is perfectly sufficient for the application...most of the issues people experience are tied to the factory remote-shifter setup, and there are multiple ways to solve that(Mine now feels like a T5 with a steeda Tri-Ax with my mods) a TKO would just run up the cost for little reason.
I'm worried about my wiring as well, ill call up joe and find out how he went about his setup whether he just tucked it all or trimmed down the stock setup and what pcms he has. Dude is putting down 550hp @ the wheels on a stock block lol
#402
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Columbia TN
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I heard there were also issues associated with that stock nylon clutch line, a steel braided replacement should fix that issue. I have that hurst short throw and ill have to use a custom line so I wont have those issues 😁
I'm worried about my wiring as well, ill call up joe and find out how he went about his setup whether he just tucked it all or trimmed down the stock setup and what pcms he has. Dude is putting down 550hp @ the wheels on a stock block lol
I'm worried about my wiring as well, ill call up joe and find out how he went about his setup whether he just tucked it all or trimmed down the stock setup and what pcms he has. Dude is putting down 550hp @ the wheels on a stock block lol
#403
#411
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#412
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hurst short throw shifter supposidly from gt350 compared to stock 2011 assembly. The "gt350" is exactly 1" shorter at 12 3/4 " from transmission output flange to rear assembly mount tip. What does this mean? This will potentially allow me to move the shifter back 1" and interchanging the longer 2011 control linkage with the "gt350" top bushing bracket will allow me to move the shifter higher vertically closer into the stock fc shifter location. Or I can swap the hurst short shifter kit into the stock 2011 assembly and just push the whole motor and trans forward 1", preferrably I'd want the motor as far back as possible. I pulled off the 2011 mustang motor's oil pan and patched the hole the stupid junkyard punched into the pan with jb weld. Not a perm fix, just to prevent water ingress. Upon inspection I noticed some horrendous scoring on one of the crankshaft's counter balancers, big time red flag untill I noticed a lazer etched number. I didn't notice anything like this on the fwd edge motor, did Ford balance the mustang rwd 3.7 engines' crank to allow for a higher redline? Im now curious to look for balancing marks on the con rods... Im currently trying to buy my first house so I probably wont get the motor in and start fabricating mounts for at least a month.