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Leak down test:
#1,2,3 & 4 ~10% loss from the intake valves
#5 loss of about ~15% exhaust valves
#6 was best of all with only 5% loss in through the rings, possibly because of lack of ring thermal expansion.
So it's been a ridiculously hectic month with money, work, and bills but I have good news. Motor mount fabrication starts next weekend. I have about $600 extra from my bills so I'm going to buy the steel I need, possibly a walbro fuel pump and get to making some parts for the motor mount. I think I am going to outsource my welding to a guy in my local area because I don't think my MIG is up to the job. The fuel tank is ready to be dropped and cleaned before I install a pump so it looks like I'll have updates. I just wish this ******* crap metal basket wall was done, it's a meticulous piece of crap.
Cardboard prefab, sweet, it's like arts and crafts class.
I since moved the vertical bars to the corner bends.
Materials and tower mount brackets. I'll need to modify these more to only have the surface area I need. All in all I think the idea is starting to take shape. Unfortunately the only flat steel I could find to make brackets out of is ¼" I'd rather have 3/16ths. The angle is ⅛th" thick and 1-¼" on the flats, 6' long(I'll probably need more. Total weight is probably around 20lbs.
Some fab and mock up. Holes drilled and a lot of manual filing to get the right fitment, I know the tabs are long but i still have plenty to cut off. Threw a coat of primer on them so they wouldnt get surface rust before I could get back to fabrication.
you can also see the bottom rail I cut because it's ridiculously simple. I'm using ¼" flat steel for the brackets and I'll use ⅛" angle to make my cross bars and box it up. I still have a 7' bar of 2" box I found on the job site. I might save that in an attempt to make my own Ford 8.8 IRS diff brackets.
Top bracket fab progression Reattached the sway bar to the forward bolt. I might actually be able to incorporate the sway bracket bolt into the mount bar.
beer and football time, till next time guys.
Only thing ive done since last is finished swapping the lsd carrier into the 3.5 housing.
3.55 lsd, can't get this from a ford factory.
Can't say I've really done anything whatsoever on the rx7. I've been really saving up to buy a house and move the car so I'm not pushed to finish and rush a build into craptacular failure. I have spent time on other things like, newish tires for the Lexus, all new pads all the way around for her as well. The springs on the corolla's rear drum ate **** and I'm worried about blowing the shoes off then the seals on the cylinders and end up without brakes in traffic. All new drums, shoes & hardware come in Friday.
Just figured out injector power and she starts but dies right away.
One more step closer.
good evening just found your post we placed a 3.7 out of a 2014 Mustang from salvage hard on our race truck we got the entire wire harness and fuse box and pedal from same car wire harness was simplified and we are using HP tuners we already got our ecm back from Eric he did the pats delete . We are having the same issues on the injector pulse and spark can you please give us some guidance as what we need to do . Our transmission is a pbs sequential race transmissions not from any public driven car as well as fuel pump is external and cooling system .
I'm on the road now, but when iget back home in about a week or so maybe we can work onit together. I'm thinking the 5.0 harness from power by the hour might be in your future. At any account. My documents are at home. I'd love to rediscover how igot this ruining she's been great for approaching 2years now.
cheers,
Joe
We would greatly appreciate your help . So it would be easier to work with the 5.0 harness that’s the oem 3.7 harness ? I will send you pics of the pin sheet showing how I simplified it . Not using fuse box nor dash nor oem ignition switch and different transmission
So I broke, I had to do it. I bought a walbro fuel pump. I am starting to feel like the project is becoming stagnant. I don't want that. $133 shipped from summit, quite significantly less than the $187 it used to be without install kit. I feel like I made a good decision.
I think my target HP is going to be about 400rwhp. Pricewise it's probably best for longevity. I have been doing research and 03-04 cobra injectors are dv6 39lb, I wonder if they'll fit. I can pick up a set on rock auto for about $140shipped, the issue is fitment. Deutchworks' injector calculator estimates 39lbs are required @46psi for 425 crank HP. A lot of the cobra guys say stock injectors are good for up to 500, they have 2 more though so I'm guessing that they'll be good for 400crank. If they'll fit.
Whoa whoa whoa, stop the press.
Found a 2011 mustang v6 at a local junkyard with only 75k miles. I just happened to be 50% off as well.
The goods:
3.7 engine with all accessories, harness(a little choppy) and ecu
6 speed manual transmission with shifter
JLT oil catch can($130 reg)
a set of Eibach lowering springs($279 regularly)
A set of maximum Motorsports camber/caster plates($279)
Total spent: $510
So there will be a change in plans, the motor I pulled has motor mounts an bonus exhaust manifolds. The plan is to take the fwd motor out, swap over the oil pan because they put a hole in them for some reason, flywheel, clutch kit, and intake manifold(junkyard was broken). The fwd motor is going to sit until the next swap and the other 6speed tranny will be a backup in case the other one explodes. The springs and camber kit I hope to sell together for $300-400 to recoup almost all of the money I spent, w00t w00t. The next project will be a mid engine mounted 99-05 ford ranger with a 6r80 6speed auto. Thoughts?
Well ive been working a lot lately, 6 days and one day really is barely enough time to rehydrate(i live in florida and work outside). I am taking the last week of the month off which should include labor day and weekends so ill have a grand total of 10 days to put in some effort on the build and some much needed rest. Then there is football coming up in september so thatll eat up a lot of saturday aftwrnoona and nights. My current plan for my time off will probably consist of me pulling the fwd edge motor and transmission. Ill then put in the '11 mustang engine to see how the stock motor mounts will line up. I am fairly certain from all the sitting that my gt flywheel and spec clutch kit have collected some rust from the florida humidity, so ill pull them and set them in a more preserving situation(flywheel & pressure plate in oil bath before a final install resurfacing). I think ill save those parts for a "stage 1" turbo situation and just feel out the dual mass flywheel that came with the '11. The reasons i am swapping over to the '11 motor instead of my Frankenstein build will be because of motor mounts, thermostat housing and waterpump locations. I think as far as ecu options are concerned i might try and contact Jeremy at faster proms to see if he can remove pats on my '11 ecu. Otherwise ill havw to goto the aftermarket with either a holly dominator or haltech elite 2500.
Well ive been working a lot lately, 6 days and one day really is barely enough time to rehydrate(i live in florida and work outside). I am taking the last week of the month off which should include labor day and weekends so ill have a grand total of 10 days to put in some effort on the build and some much needed rest. Then there is football coming up in september so thatll eat up a lot of saturday aftwrnoona and nights. My current plan for my time off will probably consist of me pulling the fwd edge motor and transmission. Ill then put in the '11 mustang engine to see how the stock motor mounts will line up. I am fairly certain from all the sitting that my gt flywheel and spec clutch kit have collected some rust from the florida humidity, so ill pull them and set them in a more preserving situation(flywheel & pressure plate in oil bath before a final install resurfacing). I think ill save those parts for a "stage 1" turbo situation and just feel out the dual mass flywheel that came with the '11. The reasons i am swapping over to the '11 motor instead of my Frankenstein build will be because of motor mounts, thermostat housing and waterpump locations. I think as far as ecu options are concerned i might try and contact Jeremy at faster proms to see if he can remove pats on my '11 ecu. Otherwise ill havw to goto the aftermarket with either a holly dominator or haltech elite 2500.
I like those options for the ECU a lot they're just so dang expensive.
I figure this thread needed a bump...so, since I finally got back to the miata....I decided to push the engine back into the firewall instead(this way I retain the stock steering rack location). The fact I have to rebuild the firewall is a small inconvienence. Actually got the idea from an RX7 guy who pushed a chevy 350 12 inches back....mine is much less extreme at 4 inches...and my stock dash will cover it all. Anyway, in this picture its actually sitting on finished mounts...next up is to fabricate headers. So, a little inspiration to get this thread moving again.
You may find you need to significantly shorten the stock shifter linkage...its rather tricky, but not too bad once you understand it needs 2 pivot points to work correctly....and the nice thing about shortening it...you can fit it perfectly in the stock location...the shorter the linkage the nicer the MT85 shifts...or so I have heard.
Will probably need to get the under dash wiring harness, (14401), so I have the ODBII port.
So, any assistance in getting this engine, harnesses and ECU to operate as stand-alone as possible is greatly appreciated.
I'll probably have Eric @ HP tuners, do the PATS delete, but I'm not sure how he is doing right now. He lives a few hours east of me and they had a pretty rough year in 2018. (devastating wild fire in early summer, and then Hurricane Michael in October)
Will probably need to get the under dash wiring harness, (14401), so I have the ODBII port.
So, any assistance in getting this engine, harnesses and ECU to operate as stand-alone as possible is greatly appreciated.
I'll probably have Eric @ HP tuners, do the PATS delete, but I'm not sure how he is doing right now. He lives a few hours east of me and they had a pretty rough year in 2018. (devastating wild fire in early summer, and then Hurricane Michael in October)
Thanks
I doubt you need any of the actual body harnesses as long as you have the needed pigtails it would be easy enough to make your own harness for things like the OBDII port, ignition switch, DBW pedal, etc, no reason to strip down a factory harness to just a few wires when you can just build a harness with just a few wires to begin with...much less work.
Why in the world are you going to use a TKO? the factory six speed is perfectly sufficient for the application...most of the issues people experience are tied to the factory remote-shifter setup, and there are multiple ways to solve that(Mine now feels like a T5 with a steeda Tri-Ax with my mods) a TKO would just run up the cost for little reason.
09-15-17, 10:09 AM
