I would be more worried about those threads on the body of the car that the bolts go into that holding the the brace failing. I have stripped the ones on my diff brace with a ppf attached, had to reweld nuts into the body to screw the bolts into. Have also cracked my PPF in two and broken 1 stock diff. Keep an eye on it.

When the holes stripped, I was beating the crap out of it, dumping the clutch, no throttle lifting up shifts, and what not, pretending I was a drift racer with arond 425rwhp...

O and a 13b with everything on it is like 370lbs tranny is 112lbs. A 2j is 572 and the tranny is around 200. So yea its like 300lbs. The extenders could work, just be sure they are strong and don't hit the rims. The rod end joint need need to be at the top of the 2" spacer, not the bottom. If the joint is at the bottom it has that extra 2" of leverage over the joint and will add some "slop" in the steering feel. Do you follow?? Sorry, if I came off like a dick, I am a rotary guy.

Again good luck with it.

I'm running 19" rims, so I should have enough clearance for 2" adapter/spacers to fix the bumpsteer issue.

19X9.5 w/ 255/35/19's

Attachment 698540

19X11.5 with 295/30/19's

Attachment 698541

Giggity.

;]

thats why u dont pay the shop until the job is done.

is easy to correct the bump steer issue.. all u gotta do is measure.

One thing at a time..

I just want to see/hear/feel the thing RUN first..

Stopped by the shop this past Friday, 28SEP. Snapped a few pics.

Attachment 696839

Attachment 696840

Attachment 696841

Attachment 696842

:]

They're going to fabricate a nice little shroud for the radiator, eventually. the radiator sits in there PERFECT, but the motor is a few inches higher, so a nice shroud will be very beneficial.

Do you guys have any recommendations on the finish I should go with for all the piping, intake manifold, etc? I'm thinking polished, but not chrome, maybe?

Shop thinks "wrinkle black" would look cool? I dunno.. >_>

On a BAD note....they're running into issues with the wiring harness from Chase Bays...not surprising.

Apparently #5 injector is pinned wrong into the ECU plug, and so is the ECU pin-out for the 7M-GTE CPS I'm using; it's in the wrong place. That, and the harness has 3 wires for the Cam Position Sensor, but the 2JZ-GE motor's actual sensor only has 2 wires going into the plug.

These are issues the shop COULD fix, but the thing is, I've already paid the shop, and the shop is the one that paid for the harness....so it comes down to how they and CB end up working it out. In the end, it's not fair that I should have to pay anything more than what I already have for that wiring harness to work CORRECTLY.

Super big pain in the butt, but at least in the mean time, they can still work on wiring up other things.

That, and the piping/plumbing fabrication should be able to be completed now that they have the turbo back.

And lastly, they told me that my exhaust piping was done very poorly and is going to scrape really bad...so for ~$500 he says he can re-do the entire exhaust.. I want to keep my Racing Beat cat-back untouched, however. He said that should be fine.

Should I install a resonator for noise control? No cats though...don't wanna lose power.

So yeah....gonna go back to the shop in another 2 weeks or so and hopefully the fabrication will be done and we'll have some more wiring progress updates.

Stay tuned. :]

Looks good. Just curious but when you had that spacer welded onto your exhaust manifold, did the guys that do it weld the inside of the bolt holes shut? If they didn't, expect an exhaust leak at each stud

Attachment 696753
That spacer? Hmm...looks fine to me..

Yes that one. if the inside of the bolt holes haven't been sealed where the flanges meet, then gas will leak out there and past the threads of the studs - at least in my experience.

I'll have the shop take a look at that.

Thank you.

Sorry, just to clarify - on the last one I did, I welded the seams in the runners, not the bolt holes. The end result is the same though.

Go on
Im drive my car but I have problem with one bosch rafiator fan
Maybe I will try to ad a push spal fan between the cooler and radiator
Waiting you to finish ur project ,also I want to strait the rear diff with shaft

I want to see ur car run

lol I want to see it run, too...

On a GOOD note, I finally picked up my rims from the shop today.

iForged 19X9.5 and 19X11.5's, both -38 offset.

Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 255/35/19 and 295/30/19 tires.

Attachment 696608

Attachment 696609

Attachment 696610

Attachment 696611

Attachment 696612

:P

Mexi-mobile Sonata...hehe

I'm gonna see about stopping by the shop on Wednesday to put them on the FD, and see if I can snap a few pics.

Probably gonna look terrible until I get the fenders rolled. That's just temporary till I get my Burnout widebody fenders installed.....that is, if the guy back in Georgia holding onto them will answer his phone and mail them back to me... >_> -_-;;

Jesus man this thing needs to get done already!!! Youve paid so much dough and they cant make it work?? Please chew some more ass for me.

Just reading all that made me frustrated I can only imagine how you feel..

Anyways beautiful car and i cant wait to see her when shes done.

Good Luck

lol thank you, Moksa.

Yeah, this project has been almost 3 years in the making. I'm definitely tired of people dragging their butt.

The shop really went full-throttle this past week though since they had finally gotten the turbo back.

The only set-back (for now) is this situation with the wiring harness. In the mean time, they can still work on a bunch of other things.

Of course....these are things they could have done months ago, too... >_>

I really appreciate the support, though! When it's all done, it'll have been worth it. It's just the patience part I've never been good at. lol

*sigh*

Why can't things ever work out the way I want them to?

I went ahead and stopped by the shop to test out my wheels.

The front 19X9.5's with 255/35/19 fit okay, and on stock fenders would be fine with a little pull and roll. Would be perfect with the widebody....

Attachment 696387

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The rears on the other hand.... Well, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves... -_-;;;

Attachment 696389

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Attachment 696393

Either I somehow miscalculated and/or the +38 offset was just NOT the right offset. Based on the amount of brake caliper and shock tower clearance I have, I'm going to go with a combination of A and B...unfortunately, from what I've seen and read about iForged rims, they don't have the offsets labeled anywhere from what I've seen. The rims previously fit on my Sonata with no problem. That was with a much smaller lip, making them about 8" wide....and based on my CURRENT Sonata rims, the offset looks about the same, which should be in that same +30, 35, 38 range....

That tire is seriously a solid 2" past the fender...There's no way my widebody is going to clear all of THAT...right? The Shine Auto "Burnout" widebody flares are only 20-25mm...

Now, I have a few options...

I still have the smaller lips from when I ran these wheels on my Sonata. The smaller lips would make the rims 19X8..

So Option 1 is: Basically make my fronts into 19X8 and run a smaller tire, like a 225 or 235/35/19 .... and then I can use the ~3" lips that I currently have for the 19X9.5's and run those as my rears with something like a 265/35/19.......my only concern with this option is that I fear a 265 just isn't nearly enough tire for the kind of power the car is going to make. This is the cheapest solution however, because I SHOULD be able to exchange the brand new 295/30/19 tires for 265/35 tires, and then I can use the cost savings to go towards the labor of having the wheel/tire shop re-install the smaller lip onto the (2) front rims.

Option 2 is: Regardless of what I do with the front rims....for the rears, I would use the smaller ~3" lips, but then find wider inner barrels. Currently there's 1-2" of clearance on the inside between my suspension components, and the current inner barrels are only 6 1/2 - 7" wide. This option would allow me to keep the 295/30/19 tire, but it wouldn't stick out. I've already confirmed that the ~3" lips actually fit very well in the rear.

So what do you guys think?

Option 1 = smaller tires all around

Option 2 = change the rear inner barrels to keep the 295/35 tire sizes and then just figure out something else for the front? I want the "staggered" look, so with this option, I would still most likely go with swapping out the lips on the front rims back to a 19X8 size and run a smaller tire.

don't ever go with smaller tire

wide fender like mine:

add sheet metal for my rex
http://im24.gulfup.com/8lUh1.bmp

rear look with 18/295
http://im20.gulfup.com/ZzjF1.bmp

so youll love it when its all done. I have one as well that i just got running and driving. All i have left is speedo and tach. Me and friend of mine been tuning and working out bugs. Its pretty awesome though

Forget your tire and rim issues ! Iwant to see this thing running already.lol..shoot me a tex sometime I lost your number

That's a FD for ya....... You get the nice dish look, but gotta use flares or

have a little dish and run monster tires width at the rears with the stock body.

my +44 at the rear are with 315s.

Whatever you choose go as wide as you can with the tires. Even if you gotta rebarrel the rim. Or get a different set of wheel.

I ended up having to sell the rims in order to fund the repairs on my RX-8.

It was either have a nice set of rims for a car that doesn't run....or pay for repairs to get my second car up and running again.

Sharing one car between the wife and I has been tough.

lol *sigh*

It's fine, though... The wheels aren't priority righ tnow. Getting the stupid thing running IS.

Apparently the shop still hasn't even heard a response back from Chase Bays regarding the ECU being pinned out incorrectly.

I haven't been to the shop in a few weeks, but I'm willing to bet they still haven't finished the fabrication and everything ELSE that needs to be done, either.

*sigh*

P.S. The center of the 3-piece iForged rim is/was the problem, because that's the part that determines the offset. So basically, the rims just were NOT the right offset to fit the car, and there's no way my Burnout widebody fenders were going to fit with that setup.

:/

wish you didnt need to sell the wheels. but if you decide to run 295/30/19
here is a pic of my setup, granted i still need to lower the car but you get the idea

wheels are AME Fins
19x8.5 +35 front
19x10.5 +10 rear

Yeah...I'm sure with some time in the body shop I could have made the widebody work n' all...

But again, it came down to priorities. I've been down to one car for a few months now since my 8's motor blew, and I need to get it running again.

I am gonna call the shop tomorrow and get on his butt about the FD.

After watching the first episode of Initial D 5th Stage that just aired in Japan, I'm pumped all over again to drive, and it's been WAY too long since I've driven my FD. The 8 (when it's running) at least provides some sense of driving fulfillment...but it ain't no FD. lol :P

BTW Black Hearts...where do you live in California?

I wish I had some more FD buddies here near the San Diego area that I could just hang out and shoot the breeze with.

I've been subscribed to this thread for a while now. can't wait for it to be done man! Btw...where can i watch the new stage of initial D? i watched the previous stages and loved it!

You can BitTorrent download it here:

NyaaTorrents >> Torrent Information >> [sage]_Initial_D_Fifth_Stage_-_01_[00D85568].mkv | Anime, manga, and music - Just say the word

It's awesome....lets just say that.

Just look at the slew of new cars they're going to have.... Evo 7/8, NSX, 350Z, Toyota MRS, another FD?, another Miata?....and more.

It's gonna be NUTS! lol XD!!

just read the whole thread, cool build