1jz / w58 fc
07-24-12, 03:14 PM
#28
Thanks for the kind words 
Well guys, since xcessive stopped answering me and my fabricator bro is in J land for another week I took the internets and look what I found
It's made by K's racing, a shop out of thailand. Dude makes a lot of stuff involving toyota swaps and especially stuff for the fd. Based on the price of this piece though I'm debating, it doesn't look as good as it could be and on the 1J, the last stud on the driverside holds this metal fuel line with a bend in it and leads to the fuel rail. I'm assuming he just used a short block to mock it up but I'll have to ask. This kit runs $430 shipped. I like it and I don't haha. I like that I can pull the trigger and get this and probably get the motor in asap but I'm just not sold on what I see just yet. When my fab guy gets back I'll ask him what he thinks, if he can do better (probably cheaper too) then I'll just get a one off set made but if he thinks these are good to go well then I'll bite the bullet and test these out. If they're any good. I might jig them and try to improve on my own set but we shall see. Stay tuned, I'd like to have this thing shredding tires in time for all star bash this october.
Well guys, since xcessive stopped answering me and my fabricator bro is in J land for another week I took the internets and look what I found
It's made by K's racing, a shop out of thailand. Dude makes a lot of stuff involving toyota swaps and especially stuff for the fd. Based on the price of this piece though I'm debating, it doesn't look as good as it could be and on the 1J, the last stud on the driverside holds this metal fuel line with a bend in it and leads to the fuel rail. I'm assuming he just used a short block to mock it up but I'll have to ask. This kit runs $430 shipped. I like it and I don't haha. I like that I can pull the trigger and get this and probably get the motor in asap but I'm just not sold on what I see just yet. When my fab guy gets back I'll ask him what he thinks, if he can do better (probably cheaper too) then I'll just get a one off set made but if he thinks these are good to go well then I'll bite the bullet and test these out. If they're any good. I might jig them and try to improve on my own set but we shall see. Stay tuned, I'd like to have this thing shredding tires in time for all star bash this october.
08-10-12, 02:08 PM
#32
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I thought the 1J, or even 2J, fit in an FC under the stock hood? Do you have that bad boy as low as it will sit?
Also, I'd just take the money for that kit and put it towards a MIG welder. You will use it about 100 billion more times in your life, and with a little practice you can just make your own mount bracket.
Check the reviews on this: http://www.eastwood.com/review/produ.../category/690/
The FC is great because you don't need to re-engineer the whole damn subframe to put in a JZ motor. Just make some brackets.
Also, I'd just take the money for that kit and put it towards a MIG welder. You will use it about 100 billion more times in your life, and with a little practice you can just make your own mount bracket.
Check the reviews on this: http://www.eastwood.com/review/produ.../category/690/
The FC is great because you don't need to re-engineer the whole damn subframe to put in a JZ motor. Just make some brackets.
08-11-12, 01:43 AM
#33
I have a MIG bud and I'll be using it very soon
After reading what you guys said I immediately decided to go with my original feeling and just do the mounts custom. Although that guys picture was useful for ideas and stuff. I really appreciate the heads up on the lack of craftsmanship, who knows how much time and obviously money I've saved. Got one mount done today, doing the drivers side on monday or tuesday. I will post pictures up when they're done.
CKxx, the engine is sitting damn near on the steering rack, there is minimal clearance the way we set it up. Possibly removing the hood skeleton could make it clear.
After reading what you guys said I immediately decided to go with my original feeling and just do the mounts custom. Although that guys picture was useful for ideas and stuff. I really appreciate the heads up on the lack of craftsmanship, who knows how much time and obviously money I've saved. Got one mount done today, doing the drivers side on monday or tuesday. I will post pictures up when they're done.
CKxx, the engine is sitting damn near on the steering rack, there is minimal clearance the way we set it up. Possibly removing the hood skeleton could make it clear.
09-02-12, 01:12 AM
#34
Soooo me and my papa finished the physical mock up of the mounts that we made out of aluminum (for clearance and fitment refining). He's been busy with the fishing season so I get to see this car like once every 2 weeks. This week they are getting dimensioned and put into solidworks and then one of the machinists at his work is going to make them for us. The only thing that worries me is these mounts will only be as good as we made the mock ups haha...so they could come out super nice looking and well built but if our fitment was off then a lot of time and effort will have been wasted. IF they come out rad I'll see what I can do about getting a copy of the solid works so you guys can download it and take it to your local fabricator.
Aside from that I've been getting together other nonsense, need to replace all the rear wheel studs, dtss eliminators, wheel bearings and get the differential welded for now. Diff isn't permanent but I don't want to shake this thing down with an open diff. Been thinking about what sort of configuration to run the V-mount in as well...any idea what radiator I might use? I see some dudes like to use the FD rad sometimes.
Aside from that I've been getting together other nonsense, need to replace all the rear wheel studs, dtss eliminators, wheel bearings and get the differential welded for now. Diff isn't permanent but I don't want to shake this thing down with an open diff. Been thinking about what sort of configuration to run the V-mount in as well...any idea what radiator I might use? I see some dudes like to use the FD rad sometimes.
09-03-12, 01:37 PM
#35
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I used the FD rad, and flipped it upside down for my v-mount... the lower (was the upper) hose outlet hangs a little low. I actually ended up cutting the pipe off, blocked it, and came out the side of the end tank with it...saved about 1.5 inches of clearance.
I did that because I went off track once, and coming back on, cheese grated the silicone connector on the blacktop and pissed my coolant out.
I did that because I went off track once, and coming back on, cheese grated the silicone connector on the blacktop and pissed my coolant out.
10-22-12, 09:33 PM
#39
Sorry guys, we put a bunch of time into the mounts and we weren't happy with how they came out...this is coming from zero engineering background. I am currently waiting for the shop to have space... kinda bums me out if I went rotary I'd be killing **** with this thing already. I hope it's worth the wait. As promised though I will keep you updated. The shop might jig the mounts too. I will def relay the information when it becomes available.
10-30-12, 09:06 PM
#40
Well after $500 and two days in the shop I have this
And I picked up the driveshaft today which ran me $375 because it had to be made from scratch.
I'm in the process of buttoning things up, in the mean time if you have any questions feel free to send them my way. At this point it should be fairly clear that the engine and trans mounts will need to be fabricated. The radiator and fans are for an SR20DET
And I picked up the driveshaft today which ran me $375 because it had to be made from scratch.
I'm in the process of buttoning things up, in the mean time if you have any questions feel free to send them my way. At this point it should be fairly clear that the engine and trans mounts will need to be fabricated. The radiator and fans are for an SR20DET
11-10-12, 05:02 PM
#45
These were pretty expensive...if you're serious about the swap I would talk to your local fabricator and see what direction they'd like to go and go from there.
I'm going to start a cost analysis pretty soon...if this thing is close to what an LS swap costs I'm gonna be a little bummed. At least the J sounds cooler I guess?
I'm going to start a cost analysis pretty soon...if this thing is close to what an LS swap costs I'm gonna be a little bummed. At least the J sounds cooler I guess?
11-20-12, 12:33 AM
#48
Looking like my ECU might be toast. Have everything wired up, power where it needs to be and she just cranks and cranks. Replaced a host of sensors. Might have to pull the trigger on a new ECU in a few days if nothing works out.
12-19-12, 02:24 PM
#50
Okay so he's the meat and potatoes of this swap....after you have it all mounted up, how to get it running. The 1J will run without exhaust/intake and intercooler piping. You can start this motor on a pallet if you really wanted to.
My engine set came from a Toyota Soarer (US Spec is Lexus SC300). You're going to want this engine set because it's rear sump.
The ECU pinout is as follows, supply 12volts+ to the 4 pins on the right, and ground the 2 highlighted pins on the left. This is just to get the motor running, if you wish to integrate it into your existing chassis wiring, you will need to do the appropriate translation. Mine is wired to a switch panel and a junction block where it receives the 12volts. I will be happy to diagram that if anyone is interested in doing so.
***It turned out my ignitor was toast and my fuel lines were on backwards
After that was solved the car fired right up and idled. I have a checklist for troubleshooting that I used when I wasn't able to start the car, so if you find yourself stuck check these items:
1.Check Crank Position Sensor (OHM) and continuity from it's wiring to the ECU
2. Check Crank Position Sensor trigger wheel (Inside timing cover, behind crank) sometimes they can slip off if the motor is banged around)
3. Check Cam Position Sensor (Next to intake manifold, in between injectors)
4. Check ECU ( I had to send mine out to someone since no one runs a Non-VVTI Soarer 1JZ by me)
5. Check Ignitor (Supra TT are the same as well as V6 Avalons)
If at that point still no dice, check your harness plugs for continuity and ensure you have power and grounds where the diagram says it needs it. Double check fuel lines, I feel like a big idiot for messing that up.
My engine set came from a Toyota Soarer (US Spec is Lexus SC300). You're going to want this engine set because it's rear sump.
The ECU pinout is as follows, supply 12volts+ to the 4 pins on the right, and ground the 2 highlighted pins on the left. This is just to get the motor running, if you wish to integrate it into your existing chassis wiring, you will need to do the appropriate translation. Mine is wired to a switch panel and a junction block where it receives the 12volts. I will be happy to diagram that if anyone is interested in doing so.
***It turned out my ignitor was toast and my fuel lines were on backwards
After that was solved the car fired right up and idled. I have a checklist for troubleshooting that I used when I wasn't able to start the car, so if you find yourself stuck check these items:
1.Check Crank Position Sensor (OHM) and continuity from it's wiring to the ECU
2. Check Crank Position Sensor trigger wheel (Inside timing cover, behind crank) sometimes they can slip off if the motor is banged around)
3. Check Cam Position Sensor (Next to intake manifold, in between injectors)
4. Check ECU ( I had to send mine out to someone since no one runs a Non-VVTI Soarer 1JZ by me)
5. Check Ignitor (Supra TT are the same as well as V6 Avalons)
If at that point still no dice, check your harness plugs for continuity and ensure you have power and grounds where the diagram says it needs it. Double check fuel lines, I feel like a big idiot for messing that up.