Very cool thread i just found. Def. going to use your info and apply it to my fc. Props to you Aaron!!!:icon_tup:

You've never heard of Homelink before now? It's been an option or standard on various makes and models for over a decade. I got mine from WembleySells on eBay, made by Gentex. http://wembleysells.com/ and http://stores.ebay.com/Wembleysells There is a auto-dim with compass mirror available. The Gentex mirrors feel pretty solid and the one I have has worked well.

One caveat: if the rear view mirror in the Cosmo mounts to the overhead console instead of the windshield (like in an FC), you will need to modify the mirror housing using a stock mirror as a donor.

This will give you an idea of what's involved; I modified this mirror for a '94 300ZX. Did it with a Dremel, a mirror with a broken dimming mechanism, and some "goop." The hardest part is opening the mirror housing without marring the plastic, but unless you really force things, the housing's plastic is very strong.

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...8&l=e1b65c8cb3

With TPMS, Tire Pressure Monitoring System, it would serve as more of a safety factor in immediately alerting you to a tire leak. Some systems give you a PSI reading for each tire, saving you the need to check your tire pressures monthly. I should point out that though I plan to get such a system, I can't speak to the quality and reliability of aftermarket systems out there. Installation typically consists of inserting a transmitter with integrated valve stem into each wheel and then mounting and balancing the tires. Then, program the receiver for each transmitter.

I don't pay much attention to new cars. Most are boring. Those mirrors look great though and it is definitely on the list.

The Cosmo mirror mounts to the headliner. Looking at your writeup, it appears that I could modify the new mirror to mount in the same way as the Cosmo mirror without having to destroy both. At least, it looks that way. Only way to tell is to try it. If I break a Cosmo mirror, it is difficult to get another. Then again, I can just glue the mirror to the windshield and I need to fix the headliner anyway, so...

I'll have to look into aftermarket TPMS systems to see whether it is worth the trouble/money.

Haha, I work for Gentex. Let me know if you need a mirror Aaron. I might be able to get you a deal, or something...

honestly i would stay away from the tire pressure idea. they are designed for todays modern idiot. most people would just keep driving if the tire felt low so they have to add in these systems. so if your no moron theres no reason for it.

but i would add in the seat warmers. especially if you are having the seat re upholstered. those things are so nice in the winter, but then again i doubt this car will ever be out when its cold out

Hey what the hell.

I just wish that I had thought of seat warmers. I have already ordered from AutoLoc and would have just bought seat warmers at the time. It's absolutely not a feature I would ever use, but resale wise might be a good move.

Getting a little bored of working on the floor so I may deal with shaving the door handles as I'm sick of having to reach into the little latch hole to open the doors. I found a few more small holes in the floors, but nothing major. Tomorrow I'll finish removing the tar and then if there is time, blast away the rust so I can start making my repairs.

Part 6: My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration - Floor Repair Prep and Blasting
 

After discovery of the large hole in the drivers side floor, it became clear that the sheet metal needed some major repairs. So part 6 deals with stripping down the floor to get a clear view of what needs to be repaired and to prep for the actual repairs. In this episode I strip out the sound deadening tar using dry ice, clean up the residue, and then sand blast the floor pan.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hJbzCSWdN0

This is good shit right here!

aaron, if i was you, i would just drop the whole damn floor of the car, and take it to someone who can replicate it.

Wow the dry ice on the floor really makes that an easier process.

FUUUUUCK!!!!! I have a lot of work with my vert floor. Thanks for showing me the hell I will be headed toward. Great build so far.

Outsource? Never! :) I'm in-sourcing more and more these days because I'm almost always unhappy with stuff when I have someone else do it (the exception is the shop that built the transmission and diff for Tina, they are awesome). Fixing the floor will be a lot of good practice for my sheet metal skills. The replacement doesn't have to be factory correct, it just needs to be solid, safe, not a hack job and functional. I don't care, nor do I think anyone else does, if it looks a bit different then the factory floor pan as long as it follows the contours of the original. It's going to be POR-15'd and Dynamatted anyway.

Huge...The key is to let the dry ice sit for at least 20 minutes in one spot, hit the area a few times with a hammer, then just pop off the tar. You can get by with only letting it sit 10 minutes but it just means that it comes off in smaller chunks and is much more work. A DULL bit in the air chisel makes things a lot easier.

Nah, yours will be easy. ;) All the sheet metal for the FC is still available at the dealer. Try getting a floor pan for a '76 Cosmo...

[QUOTE=Aaron Cake;10311205]Outsource? Never! :) I'm in-sourcing more and more these days because I'm almost always unhappy with stuff when I have someone else do it (the exception is the shop that built the transmission and diff for Tina, they are awesome). Fixing the floor will be a lot of good practice for my sheet metal skills. The replacement doesn't have to be factory correct, it just needs to be solid, safe, not a hack job and functional. I don't care, nor do I think anyone else does, if it looks a bit different then the factory floor pan as long as it follows the contours of the original. It's going to be POR-15'd and Dynamatted anyway.

You could make a mold out of it using fibreglass and make an "exact copy" in carbon fibre.:)

Yeah, I don't think I'll be doing that. :)

Nice to see another resto. I been working on my vert every day for the past few weeks i need to update my restoration thread

aaron, i'm convinced you'll die by your own doing. i hardly ever see you were gloves when using chemicals not safe for your hands and it took you awhile to get the mask on when all the crusty mouse turds were flying around on your carpet uninstall. and then kerosene to clean up what was left of the tar, lol, your crazy but i love your attention to detail and cleanliness. i can't wait to see your next video in this series. keep up the good work.

Awesome work Aaron, keep them videos coming.

It took me years ton convince a friend of mine that is the owner of a body shop to wear gloves and a mask all the time, when using chemicals. It's hard to think about the future, when at the moment wearing gloves is a pain in the ass. I perfectly understand that, as I am a painter, but the price of a box of glove and the discomfort of a mask is cheaper than being sick waiting at the hospital.

As we're all waiting for the next video, because it is overly interesting, you are becoming more and more an example of determination to follow. As Uncle Ben says: "With great power comes great responsibility"...:nod:

Keep the good work!

It looks like a lot of work, but that floor seems pretty solid overall compared to a certain 240Z.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...2189261881712#

The body of that car was said to have no rust, which turned out to be a lot of rust. To the point where the entire unibody had to be stripped down and essentially rebuilt from the ground up with a team of people.

Given what you need to fix, I think you have it easy.

In regard to the windows, didn't the rear quarter windows on these cars roll down too? Keyless entry is obviously a given, but are you going to install an alarm? Some alarm systems have 2-way communication to confirm functions or alert a user to a problem.

If you do, may I suggest mounting an interior siren up under the dash in a hard-to-reach place instead of under the hood (use the car's horn instead). Keep the alarm brain anywhere but under the dash (or well-integrated and disguised). In fact, use generic switches, LEDs and labeling to disguise it further.

Oh, and when handling chemicals, wear gloves and a mask; especially when it comes time to prep, prime and paint the car (even if you're just there observing). As you pointed out, POR15 doesn't wash off if it gets on bare skin, and the MetalReady is acid.

I wear safety equipment when required, with the general exception of gloves. You'll notice I had the mask on as soon as the dust started flying. But a little kerosene on the hands never really hurt anyone.

Painting is one of those things where I get fully kitted up. Respirator, gloves and often goggles (as long as they don't prevent me from seeing the work). Especially when dealing with products like POR-15 which will put you out of commission for days if you inhale it in aerosol form. But for a bit of casual brake cleaner use, meh, I'll take the risk.

I've been porting the last few days. Should be done that by the end of the weekend, then I can start blasting and painting engine parts. I figure another episode in about 1.5-2 weeks.

I remember seeing that about 6 years ago, and am now downloading the whole thing for later viewing again. I really respect what that guy did, but man, sometimes you just have to let go. My winter beater '78 RX-7 which had no floors, quarters, wheel wells, foot wells, inner fender, frame rails, door sills (driver door fell off one day) and rockers had less rust then that 240Z. Though I didn't find an door hinges used as patch panels.

The little rear quarter windows do indeed roll down. I'm keeping the crank on those just for the sake of being quirky. They are such an odd thing that I would hate to remove some of that oddness.

I'm not going to alarm the car. I don't have alarms in any of my vehicles because they are generally pointless noise makers. Just a good old kill switch does the job. If I was to install an alarm, I'd certainly get something with enough outputs for the windows and doors. I'm still trying to decide whether to put the door/window control module under the dash or in the trunk. It is something I would like to get wired up soon because I am sick of fishing inside the doors with my finger to unlatch them. I'm leaning towards under the dash since there is plenty of room and it keeps the wiring under control.

Due to my paint choice (damn waterborne...) I may not even be able to prime it myself. It depends on whether I can find the same colour in solvent based. Now, as you may know, I have significant experience with POR-15 and their line of chemicals and have learned the hard way that their products and warnings must be respected.

I would've too. I had a 1985 Chevy Astro with less rust than that car, but finally had to give it up because of rust in the frame rails near the gas tank. In Mull's case, 240Zs are rare in his country, and he had to import one from abroad. If nothing else, it's an example of what happens when you buy a car based on pictures.

I can respect that, and I think some oddness is good.

You didn't strike me as the alarm type anyway. I alarmed mine, but it was mainly for its add-on modules that allowed remote control of the sunroof, and power door locks and hatch release. Today, I'd still go with one only if it allowed greater remote control and included an interior pain generator for the unwary thief who decides to poke around under the dash.

Oh, I do remember. You were quite clear during one of your constructions threads, but I didn't think reminding you would hurt.s

I think that's kind of the only saving grace: a 240Z in his country would be like a Cosmo 110 Sport here. At least with a 240Z there are multiple companies reproducing sheet metal.

If I ever have the courage, I will post the pictures I took of myself after the POR-15'ing of the underside of Tina. I am just understandably concerned with posting semi-nude pictures of myself on the forum...

And Astro minivans are hardly rare, nor are they performance vehicles out-of-the-box; basically spacious, rugged, work vehicles with very durable 4.3L V6 engines. I loved it, but it was a money pit and I had to let it go. My next car was my RX7, which I've spent money on, but I've tinkered with it far more than the Astro.

Uh... okay, that's not an image I want running around my head :-).

how big of an air compressor do you have?