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Video Log Of The Restomodding Of My '76 RX-5 Cosmo (New Vid Jan 5/2023)

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Old 03-12-11, 10:54 AM
  #201  
Engine, Not Motor

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Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
Very nice...this is probably as close as I will come to seeing a 12a assembled. I enjoyed it very much! Can't wait to hear it run.
It's going to be a little while. Off hand, I still need to:
-clean, de-rust, blast and paint the engine bay
-install engine
-install manifolds
-fabrication
-fabricate turbo system
-wire EMS

Plus before I can paint the engine bay I have to be done drilling holes through it, so I may have to wait after the new A/C and heater is installed.

Originally Posted by just startn
watched every second... cant get any better. i didnt see the flywheel get torqued
Originally Posted by g14novak
It is missing your flywheel torquing technique. Great video though.
The flywheel has not been machined yet so I didn't install it. Also didn't install the rear eccentric seal. It will be a little while for the flywheel because there isn't much point in having it machined until it is ready to be installed.
Old 03-13-11, 08:18 PM
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Awesome!!! I spent 20 bucks on an Atkins rebuild video for nothing. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!!
Old 03-14-11, 11:51 PM
  #203  
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Nice video. One suggestion for clearancing the side seals is to use on old rotor and put a small round sanding stone chucked into a drill press and put the old rotor under the drill press and lower so the sanding stone is inside the corner seal hole and then you just push the side seal into the stone to sand down the needed material. This will ensure a perfect angle to the corner seal. Your method is ok, but you can mess up the angle pretty easily. Here's a link for reference, post#9- https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/got-bored-work-today-839432/

Also, are you using two piece or one piece apex seals?
Old 03-15-11, 09:31 AM
  #204  
Engine, Not Motor

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Yeah, I've seen that done and a rig like that has been on my list of stuff to make for years. An old rotor, a cheap Dremel and about an hour to assemble it all. Dremel kits come with router stands in many cases so assembly could be VERY easy. Just have not bothered yet. A little care and attention will keep the angle correct when clearancing by hand. Still a pain in the ***. Oddly, I don't really build that many engines so it really isn't a big deal to do once or twice a year. This is only the 2nd engine I have ever built for myself! Felt nice to make one for me instead of someone else.

The apex seals used were 2 piece 3MM Atkins seals.
Old 03-15-11, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Yeah, I've seen that done and a rig like that has been on my list of stuff to make for years. An old rotor, a cheap Dremel and about an hour to assemble it all. Dremel kits come with router stands in many cases so assembly could be VERY easy. Just have not bothered yet. A little care and attention will keep the angle correct when clearancing by hand. Still a pain in the ***. Oddly, I don't really build that many engines so it really isn't a big deal to do once or twice a year. This is only the 2nd engine I have ever built for myself! Felt nice to make one for me instead of someone else.

The apex seals used were 2 piece 3MM Atkins seals.
Ok cool. When you installed the two piece seals did you superglue the small corner piece or did you just lay the corner piece on top after you installed the springs? The reason I ask is because in the video it looks like you just layed the small corner piece of the seal on top, which I hear can get cocked and chip the end off when turning the engine over.
Old 03-16-11, 09:04 AM
  #206  
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The corner piece is held in place by the tension of the spring and located by the corner seal. As the tension bolts are tightened down, all the springs and seals compress, bringing everything into their final position. During assembly the level of the rotor housing mating surface is a little higher than the height of the corner piece so the corner piece basically sits where it would while the engine is operating. It's just the way I've always done it.
Old 03-22-11, 07:22 PM
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How far behind the actual build are the videos? Are you editing and posting videos as the footage gets done, or is the car nearly finished and the videos haven't been finished yet? Just curious.
Old 03-24-11, 08:42 AM
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In general the videos are about a month or two behind the actual work. I'll usually work until I think I have enough footage for editing, or until a task is finished. Then when I get time, I edit. Sometimes I'm editing footage only a day or so after I take it, sometimes it sits on the hard drive for a few weeks. Every 15 minutes starts out at about 4 hours of raw footage. I tend to only turn the camera on when I'm doing something significant. For example, I just patched a bunch of floor holes but have not really had the camera on since the weekend. No one needs to see 5 small holes being patched. But when I patch the shifter area, and the big hole under the pedals, I'll run the camera.
Old 04-04-11, 06:56 PM
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Part 13: Clearing The Engine Bay - My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration

With the engine built, it seemed logical to focus a bit on where that engine is to live: under the hood. Episode 13 has me stripping all the remaining mechanical components out of the engine bay in preparation for it to be blasted, repaired and painted. This is dirty grunt work, not particularly stimulating but at least it isn't sheet metal. It's been a while since my last update and rest assured, what you see here is only a small fraction of what has been done. I have plenty more footage ready to edit. Included in this episode: removing all engine bay mechanical components, removing brake lines and cylinders, labelling and removing wiring harnesses, removal of the steering gear, orderly disassembly of an engine bay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJwP0RMLyis
Old 04-04-11, 07:25 PM
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Paint it The body color. No flat black.
Old 04-04-11, 08:58 PM
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That's what I'm thinking as well. It gives the car a far more finished look than a black engine bay. The only annoying part is that I now need to head to a body shop to find out what paint system I will end up with, and then buy the appropriate products. Regardless of top coat though, the engine bay will be painted first with POR-15 and then their "Tie Coat" primer.
Old 04-05-11, 09:50 AM
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Your editing in that video was very creative. These videos are like crack...I cant wait for the next fix!!
Old 04-05-11, 02:24 PM
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Great work, but I have to give my 2 cents on using a solenoid on the hood latch. What if the solenoid fails? Is there going to be a manual release?
Old 04-06-11, 08:58 AM
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If the solenoid fails I should be able get creative with a piece of wire through the cowl area. One could say the same thing if the stock cable fails as well, which actually has happened to me on two cars. Since the battery will be in the trunk I'm not to worried about emergency access to the engine bay. Still, I'm not sure yet if I will eliminate the manual release.
Old 04-07-11, 11:08 PM
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Ahhh part 13 was relaxing I just sat back and thought of nothing for 20 minutes ..Aaron if you P.M. me your mailing address and I will send you a nice pair of finger mits to protect your hands . They really do work and you still have your fingers exposed to work with .. I buy them slightly used from a retired doctor no not really I think he is still practicing ..
Old 04-11-11, 09:19 AM
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Nice work!!! Have to say I did the same thing when pulling a steering rack out of my FC... nuts were welded, and I didn't find out until about 10 minutes later =P

Keep it up man, I'm so glad (and sure you are too) that you're video logging this!
Old 04-12-11, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Landon303
Nice work!!! Have to say I did the same thing when pulling a steering rack out of my FC... nuts were welded, and I didn't find out until about 10 minutes later =P

Keep it up man, I'm so glad (and sure you are too) that you're video logging this!
**** I realized it when I broke the damn ratchet! but never again Lol!!!!
Old 04-18-11, 07:21 PM
  #218  
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Part 14: Oil Pan! Engine Bay! Floor! - My 76 Mazda RX-5 Cosmo Restoration

Part 14 of my '76 RX-5 Cosmo restoration is a collection of three random tasks. First, I add a -10 AN fitting to the oil pan to serve as a turbo oil drain. Next, I continue stripping down the engine bay by scraping off the undercoating and then cleaning off the residue with kerosene. Finally, I begin some of the work on the floor by patching a small area on the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. Included in this episode: drilling a turbo oil drain hole in the oil pan, TIG welding a -10 AN flare to the pan, scraping engine bay undercoating, trying to clean it with Castrol Super Clean, cleaning the residue with kerosene, finding a few rust holes, cutting out a rusted area of the transmission tunnel, fabricating a patch panel, welding it in place, grinding the welds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ZO5EK9IKfY
Old 04-18-11, 09:01 PM
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totally diggin the 'laying plastic sheet down' maneuver

Last edited by the faster one; 04-18-11 at 09:02 PM. Reason: cant type properly
Old 04-18-11, 09:25 PM
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I'll have to watch this after I finish studying for my exam....nahhhh.....exams require procrastination!
Old 04-18-11, 09:25 PM
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LMAO you put the 2 girls one cup music in there
Old 04-19-11, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by the faster one
totally diggin the 'laying plastic sheet down' maneuver
It impresses the chicks.

Originally Posted by beefhole
LMAO you put the 2 girls one cup music in there
Or, perhaps someone was watching it in the shop...
Old 04-19-11, 08:16 PM
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^ Even better!
Old 04-20-11, 10:38 AM
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I was watching this show "wrecks to riches" and they redid a muscle car and made it "eco green" and for their media blasting of the frame they used baking soda instead of sand. They claimed it was cleaner and was water soluble when finished -- may be something to look into!
Old 04-20-11, 01:17 PM
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Baking soda works quite well but won't take off heavy rust. It's more for paint removal.


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