Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've not used it before, but I did just look it up. Looks like a quality product. Being only available in 5 gallon sizes and greater it's less versatile than POR-15 and the Chassis Saver website seems targeted specifically at POR-15 users as on the first page there are two testimonials specifically saying their product is better than POR-15. Stuff like this makes me nervous. Also, reading through the FAQ, it appears their product is a standard urethane. POR-15 is not and is instead isocyanate based. Another thing that makes me a little concerned is that Magnet Paints says they can mix Chassis Saver to any colour, while the POR-15 company has always maintained that they only sell POR-15 in black, silver and clear because all other pigments would result in a porous finish. On that same note, Chassis Saver seems to dry though solvent evaporation (causing tiny pores), while POR-15 dries as a reaction to moisture ensuring a pore free finish.

I'm going to stick with my POR-15 for now, as I've been using their products for over 10 years with success. I just wish that POR-15 came in a spray can because it is a real pain to do small areas. And if the POR-15 company made a weld primer, I'm sure it would be better than that Norton crap I've had to put up with.

Connector isn't a big concern to me as I'll just pick up the appropriate connector once I have the injector. My only concern is fitting the primary injector location as I'll be making my own secondary bungs and fuel rail. Worst case is that I make a new fuel rail for the primaries and press some bushings into the irons.

chino_rx3

iTrader: (3)

They do have quart size .. is a lot cheaper and I been in a budget . Guy said I need cleaner then a prep for por15 I only have to clean area and spray product with reducer ofcourse . And it will turn a different color witch I'm not to worried about since I'm going black only ..I'm going to try and let you know. Thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The prep for POR-15 really isn't different than any other paint, except for one additional step. Clean/degrease the surface and remove all rust, then etch with MetalReady, then paint with POR-15 after the surface is bone dry. Any old cleaner/degreaser does the job, you don't need their Marine Clean. I generally use Castrol Super Clean. A wire wheel removes loose rust. Then when totally dry, etch with MetalReady for 15-20 minutes and rinse clean with water. Dry totally, blow off any white dust, then paint.

MetalReady is really only needed on a rusty surface or a brand new surface (like welds). If you have blasted the part, POR-15 can be applied directly to a clean blasted surface once any blasting residue is removed (brake cleaner and air). POR-15 can be brushed into tight areas, handy for the insides of frame rails and such, or sprayed. I just dump it directly into the spray gun and then turn all the controls all the way out.

It will be interesting to hear some long term tests with Chassis Saver. Personally I'm comfortable with POR-15 and know it works. Started using it when I was about 12 and repairing lawnmowers. I'd paint the underside of the decks with it to prevent rust and make clean up very easy. Nothing sticks to the slick surface. My lawnmower was painted at that time too and 20 years later, is still mint underneath. Until I was 19 I cut lawns as a side job, so it got a lot of use.

fcs4manila

Can't wait for Part 19 of your vids =]

198713bt

iTrader: (2)

Whens the next video?! Can you at least post up a video with some witty comments about Lindsay Lohan or Jerry Sandusky (too soon?) or something???????

FCguy

I'm TWEAKING ... I NEED MOAR VIDZ

hi-rev

+1

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Part 19 is being edited as fast as I am producing footage to fill it. When i finish the current sheet metal repair (maybe even this weekend?) I'll wrap it up and get it posted.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Part 19 of my '76 RX-5 Cosmo restoration continues with sheet metal repairs, but hopefully in a less boring format. First off I totally remove the rotted out front inner fenders by drilling out about a billion spot welds. Then we move onto the very complicated rear inner sill repair. This brings the introduction of POR-15, the first time I have used it on this project and by far, not the last. Included are many tips on working with this product. I promised less sheet metal, but wanted to show the rear inner sill repair because it was by far the most complicated sheet metal repair I have yet done on this car, and likely will remain as such. Included in this episode: drilling out spot welds, air hammering off panels, using MetalReady to prep for POR-15, applying POR-15, POR-15 usage tips, cutting out floor to access rear inner sill, fabricating a new rear inner sill panel, welding it all back into place, nudity of me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_ri6poq_BM

cluosborne

Very interesting and informative episode, and the sheetmetal work was a lot less boring than in previous eps. Some handy tips for POR15--added a few to my notes.

You're going to sandblast the entire unibody one section at a time, repair, and etch prime or only as needed?

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

that big panel looked hopeless; great job recreating it.

also i request more school girl innuendo for part 20

BrownRX5

Great episode!

Can't wait to see you recreate those inner fender panels!

chino_rx3

iTrader: (3)

Nive vid I was going to use the chasse saver but I see you have used por-15 for awhile now and even in your body so you have me convince thats the way to go lol. I was supposed to have my car home by now but work related problem delayed me from bringing car home, Cant wait to see the Inner fender repait area since thats where I want to start my car, From front to back Thanks for the Vid

nick812

This is so full of WIN!!!

GregW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZCFcxf5IBw

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The front end is likely the last part of the body to be blasted (aside from some small spot blasting, and perhaps a quick low pressure blast on the floor again before it is painted). The rest of the panels will be stripped via the good old mechanical method of 36 grit sanding discs and/or chemical stripper. I'll be working one panel at a time, stripping, repairing and priming. Some areas will get POR-15 as the first coat, like the pinch welds, sills, door bottoms, etc. There's really no need to blast the rest of the car.

I'll see what I can do.

With any luck I shouldn't have to, because I have a line on a set from a forum member parting out a Cosmo. Should this fall through, I won't be recreating the inner fender panels and instead will simply be making my own version which serves the same purpose but will be cooler, and a hell of a lot easier to make.

Yes, I've even had POR-15 in my body. You haven't lived until you've done the same.

I've actually seen that before. Molasses is a good method to remove rust, but time consuming, space consuming, and pretty gross. I don't know how I ever lived without my sand blaster and blast cabinet. 20 seconds of blasting and the nastiest, rustiest bracket is now virgin metal ready to be painted.

1973rx3

Nice job! Now fix that darn Honda so you can get it out of the way and finish the real car!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Just a small note for documentation purposes, at the end you say this is episode 19. The opening clip shows episode 18!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The Insight only took up the shop for two weekends. Now the space is occupied by a friend's 87 TII.

Yep. I made a mistake on the title screen template. But there's no way to fix it now without deleting the video and uploading it again.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Seeing you fix the inner rocker area makes me grin. I think, gosh it sucks. Some people (if not most) would say its pointless b/c you would never see it eecctt. They dont understand it is part of doing it the correct way wether people see it or not. I absolutly HATE when people stand 5ft away from a car or look at pictures and drool, saying how clean it is. EX: your car (or mine fore example), we could have got a tub of bondo, made a bondo buggy, painted it and called it "clean", accepting every complement that was throwin out. Anyhow, this makes me think i should update my thread. Haven't gotten to far, but now the underneith can be used as a dinning room table

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I've been enjoying you thread as well. It would be nice if I was better with the sheet metal, or at least more enthusiastic about it. This is more metal work than I had bargained for when I bought the car, but of course it isn't surprising. I certainly don't enjoy it...but I don't hate it either. There are things I'd rather be doing than metal work, then there are things I'd rather not be doing...

Repairing the inner sill was something that must have been done as it is structural and where the seat belt mounts. Plus, the car would never pass a safety inspection with a huge hole in the sill underneath. That sill area is the last rear inner repair that needs to be made so now I can move onto the fairly significant repairs on the front end. You'll see what I mean in the next video when they are exposed by media blasting. I can't deal with the front floor until the surrounding metal is replaced, since the floor has to come out anyway to access it.

Your thread is one of my favourite on this forum for metal repair. I can't seem to find it again though...

just startn

iTrader: (33)

I thank you Aaron. It has been quite an ordeal to say the least. When i bought my car i did not expect to be doing this at all! I knew the quarter had been kinda fixed. I figured i would just re work the quarter and that be that...not the case. For the last, id say 6months or more i have been messing around with cat ****. Someone would leave garage door open and cats loved pissing on my car. All i been doing is sandblasting over and over and over again. Cat **** eats right threw primer and into the metal, making the metal rust big time in just one day. I payed someone to get rid of the cats so that took care of that lol. I have done a few under body mods for camber adjusters and such so nothing will touch/rub against the chassis at anytime. College just ended 2 days ago and starts back Jan. 6th and im trying to get alot done in a short amount of time. Another down side..i was going to build my motor so i was carrying my front iron and bumped into the corner of the vise. That cracked off the inner coolant jacket so i need a new front iron. This one only had 54k on it and was mint....Life goes on......
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...estoration+101

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Merry Christmas everyone! It's about that time in the day where one starts to get tired of their crazy extended family, so to brighten the mood with a distraction, here's Episode 20 of my '76 Cosmo Restoration. In part 20, I media blast the front end and engine bay, removing 35 years of rust, gunk and dirt. Then POR-15's MetalReady is used to preserve the freshly blasted sheet metal and prevent surface rust from forming while the repairs are performed. So grab that new tablet or laptop, sit down with an adult beverage and enjoy. Included in this episode: making a blasting tent to contain the mess, info about media blasting, blasting the front end including inner fenders, wheel wells, frame and engine bay, and using MetalReady to prevent flash rust on the fresh metal.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzv1X_v3dHk

chino_rx3

iTrader: (3)

THANKS for the video , I just got my rx3 home on xmas eve after sitting outside for 2 years, I'm actually going to tacle the front end first so I can drop my engine in already, well once im done . I will defently be coming back to this video to gives me a hand.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Good work Aaron. I do have to mention something thats on my mind. I (personally) would get rid of that surface rust, grab a fiber wheel and run over it real quick. You ask why? Well, your doing all this work why settle for anything less than perfect. When i did my car i blasted a section, cleaned it, etched it. I had open bare metal for approx. 3min at a time. You should take it into consideration i think. After you get all your patches in idk if your going to blast them or fiber wheel them but if you wheel them just run over that spot. 10min tops. Good progress none the less.