Clutch installation problems on REPU
 

I needed to install a new clutch in my 1977 REPU and have run into some issues. I installed the new clutch assembly, put eveything back together to discover that the throw out bearing is not making contact with the "fingers" of the clutch housing/pressue plate. I pulled everything apart re-aligned the clutch and realized that when I tighten the housing down that its pulling the "fingers" on the housing in. Now when I bought the clutch I matched everything up with the old one and eveything was the same ,dimensionally and visually they were identical, the only thing I couldn't check was the clutch plate thickness since the old one was so worn down. I bought the clutch kit from a local O'Reilly's auto parts and am now wondering if there is a problem with thickness of the clutch plate but I am no expert on the Rotary's so thats why I am here. I didn't do anything to the flywheel other than measure the depth across it to make sure it wasn't warped, all the measurements were consistant all around the flywheel so I just scuffed it up with some emory cloth. I have pulled the transmission twice now and don't want to have to do it again, so if anybody has some ideas on what my problem is and could offer some kind of solution I would greatly appreciate it.

Do you have a part number and manufacture of the clutch you purchased? Knowing the specs might helps us. I guessing that its a stock 13B with a stock flywheel?

It is a stock 13b as is the fly wheel with a 9 bolt clutch cover. I would have to look and see who the manufacturer and what the part # is on the clutch kit. It was bought at a O'Reilly Auto Parts store. I didn't order it amazingly one of the stores in the Raleigh, NC area happened to have 1.

So it sounds like it's a correct REPU clutch disc because you say it matches the old one. That's good.

The spring fingers are supposed to be low and flat when you install a new disc. This is also good.

Yes there will be a gap between the spring fingers and the throw out bearing. Mazda designed their 74+ slave cylinders to be auto adjusting so all you need to do is pump the pedal several times until it works itself out a few mm until it contacts again. This is a no brainer. But I understand if you've never encountered anything like this before, it could be a little unnerving.

And finally, you have a clutch pedal rod and a stopper bolt, both with a jamb nut, that will probably need some adjusting. The rod has a 12mm and the stopper is 14mm. What I'd do is loosen both and lengthen the rod by turning clockwise on the 10mm hex until it's deep enough into the master so when you push the pedal it gives a full "stroke" and fully cycles the pressure plate from full grip to full disengagement. You can test this by hand cranking the engine on the front 19mm bolt while in gear until the truck wants to go forward - this loads up the drivetrain. Push the pedal and it lets go relaxing the drivetrain. This is a handy way for a single person to adjust the pedal while the engine isn't running so you have a pretty good idea where the friction point will be once you take it for a test drive. Then adjust the pedal stop and rod to where you want it and tighten the jamb nuts when finished. Pretty straight forward.

I'm out of ideas. If none of the above can you help, there is probably a problem somewhere. Oh one more idea. Because your hydraulics are used to an old thin disc, the new positions of the pistons will probably be over old dirty metal. This will cause leaks soon. Be ready to do either a rebuild on the master and slave or get new ones.