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Thanks, making these few lines has been the most frustrating part of the entire car so far.
Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
Start it already!
I wish, everyone is saying the same thing
Originally Posted by AuthoritySucks
DAMN THATS SICK! Can I ask where you learned all of this? What YOUTUBE videos can I watch to get to where you're at? So ridiculous.
Haha thanks for your praise. I'm an aircraft engineer so some of this stuff sort of just follows on from what I do at work. Looking through this forum has been a huge help also. Might have to start a "how to" YouTube series next.
Got a few more bits in the mail. A set of 8 used bosch 1000cc fuel injectors. The fuel and oil pressure sensors and 3 temperature sensors. Found a used 3 gallon dry sump tank on ebay so that will turn up soon.
Completed the airbox assembly today. All powdercoated. Just need to work out how to seal the ram tubes to the lower base plate.
Have you considered something like a large rubber o-ring with an o-ring groove on the OD of the ring? Maybe some flexible rubber door edge molding to seal it to the stack, yet allow some movement?
Have you considered something like a large rubber o-ring with an o-ring groove on the OD of the ring? Maybe some flexible rubber door edge molding to seal it to the stack, yet allow some movement?
A rubber o-ring won't work because the bolts are really close to the edge of the holes on the baseplate. I have access to a laser cutting machine at work, So will probably cut out some dense EVA foam which will be stuck onto the baseplate.
The car has a radiator now. Its a universal fit radiator but its a millimeter perfect fit in the car. It has been modified by the local radiator shop. They added the mount lugs, -20AN fittings and converted it to triple pass configuration. It uses the original lower mounts. Im making a duct/mount for the top.
Originally the car has 2 oil coolers mounted beside the radiator, same as an FD rx7. Im going to be mounting the oil cooler in front of the radiator. A few reasons for this. 1. The holes in the bumper are too small for any decent airflow for side mount coolers. 2. The ducting is a lot simpler. 3. The complexity and cost is a lot lower with 1 cooler. 4. The radiator fan will also work for the oil cooler.
lower mounts, the rubber parts are 1973 Holden Torana suspension bushes.
Davies Craig 150L/ min water pump.
Upper duct, still needs some work.
using the orignal mounts means the factory undertray can still be used. This saves a lot of time making something.
Awesome work James. Have not checked your thread in sometime! Good idea modifying the radiator to be be a three pass. I have my oil cooler set up the same. Works a treat!!
-Dave
Awesome work James. Have not checked your thread in sometime! Good idea modifying the radiator to be be a three pass. I have my oil cooler set up the same. Works a treat!!
-Dave
Thanks Dave, do you know if there is much of a pressure drop across your oil cooler?
The oil tank turned up last week. Its a 3 gallon Patterson tank. A used Ebay deal from North Carolina. Cut a big hole in the inner guard, close fit approx 10mm to the tyre on full lock. Just need to sort out the mounts for it.
The radiator is finished now, looks great with the fan mounted to it. The fan is a Flex-a-lite 180. The water pump connects directly to the radiator.
The oil cooler finally arrived yesterday. ( 5 week wait ) . Its a Fluidyne cooler, seems like a quality unit. Its 3 inchs thick and its half the price of an equivalent Setrab.
The ignition coil bracket is just about finished.
Something a bit different is the oil filter pedestal made by Peterson Fluid Systems. It has a primer pump built into it, you just wizz it up with an electric drill if the engine has been sitting awhile.
08-04-17, 01:39 AM
