The start of many questions ...
 

Hey all you NW guys! I'm building an 84' and am nearly ready to begin assembly, so I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row so to speak. I'm getting a motor from JoeMaddox (soon to be delivered), and I'm putting the following on it. Weber 45DCOE 9 and one piece intake, second gen. alternator (to power the wicked system I've assembled), 30 row aftermarket oil cooler and fan, 3.8 taurus radiator fan, Gilmer drive belt system, custom 321 stainless equal length header and a Holley fuel pump and fuel regulator. I'm relocating the battery behind pass. seat, got an Optima red top on the way.
Ok, now for the questions....... First- I've read LOTS og postings on the jetting of Webers, and it is hard to find many that agree on a particular setup. I figure some of you guys up here must be running them and will have the best idea of what I should use for our NW driving. Currently it has the stock (mid 70's) jetting as follows
choke-36
main-1.65
emulsion-f16
air correct-1.6
idle-f8/.50
pump-.60
I'm not sure of the size on the stacks.
I'm going to be driving/cruising with this car, no racing etc. So what setup would you guys recomend for my weber?
Also- are there any considerations I need to be aware of for the driveability/upkeep of my 7 her in the NW?
Thanks for any and all help.

Well first things first... what size engine are we talking about here? I have a pretty good setup for a 12A I just have to go and take the carb apart to get them for you. No problems there.

It's worth noting that what's right for one engine won't necessarily be right for another. For whatever reason, my engine likes much leaner settings than most others here.

Sorry about that.... it's a 12a

PLEASE HELP I've discovered a cracked head in my F250, so if I don't get my 7 up and running soon, I'm screwed.(no transportation=no job=no money) I already have to do everything solo, under an open carport. I can't afford to buy hundreds of dollars worth of jets and chokes and just start playing.

OK I'll get this for you tonight.

Thank you!!!!
 

Thanks! I REALLY appreciate it. I know I'll have to tune the carb no matter what, but at least if I get the correct setup to begin with it won't be longer and more difficult than neccessary.

what year and motor? i have a lot of ford heads laying around...

OK here's the breakdown. I have a streetported 12A so take this into account. EArly opening port so I had to go with a richer idle jet but only by 1 step.

F11 E-tube
175 Main jets
55 squirter tubes
65F8 Idle jet

I hope this helps.

Thanks!
 

It's a good start for me. thanks. Do you know anyone in the area that runs a stock 12A with a 45 dcoe? Like to get a feel for the range between stock and ported as it affects jetting. Again thanks for taking the time and trouble to help it's appreciated.

C'mon guys, help a fellow rotor lover out huh?! I got a check on the way, then I have to buy all my parts so I can start assembly. ArmyofOne can't be the only guy with a side draft DCOE up here. These jets are gonna cost me a left nut, so I need to be sure I'm getting a correct setup. If you don't want to share your jetting setup with everyone, (I'm told some people gaurd thier secrets) PM it to me. I promise not to post it if you don't want it known.

To recap .....motor is a 12a stock, w/equal length header, 45 DCOE, one peice intake, Holley fp and regulator, gilmer drive, fmoc, second gen alt. and DLIDFIS.

The only other thing I can offer is that we maybe meet up somewhere and I'll bring my entire jetting kits and we find a solution for you. I want to see one running as much as the next guy. And when I say kits thats exactly what I mean. I have the same exact weber, intake and header setup as you so lets make thuis happen.

ArmyOfOne ... You rock! Your input has been MUCH appreciated! If you have the spares to set me up, I'd happilly pay you for them, I have to buy some anyway. From the MANY posts and web searching I've done, the setup you mentioned appears to be close to what I need.

F11 E-tube
175 Main jets
55 Pump jets
65F9 Idle jets
36 Chokes
160 Air Correction jets
300 Needle and seat

Does this look right to you? And again, thanks for all the help!

From what I see here the only difference is that I am running a 40 choke but everything else is dead on. I'll check to see if I have a full set with the numbers you have above.

Again, my thanks for the help and effort on my behalf. Karma can kick ass, if there is ever anything I can help you with..... don't hesitate to ask.

Looks good to me.

Ok, so I got hooked up on the jetting. (thanks to ArmyofOne) And have alternates being shipped. Next question is can anyone tell me/show me how to hook up the choke to factory choke so that it operates like "normal". I've always used a manual cable choke in my old boingers and I'm unfamiliar with this choke system. thanks.

i remember when trying to hook up my choke system up to my dellorto...it wasnt long enough..so..even though i have chokes i don't use them..i just pump the gas a few times and start it up...

I was wondering about that, some guys say they have done it, maybe some kind of extension? don't know if the cable can be removed/replaced with longer one. If I can figure that out, then if I'm correct, all I need is to keep the choke/check connected and the oscillator and it's all good. That sound right? Anything I'm overlooking? I'm delooming now, don't want to remove anything that will cause factory choke knob not to function.

I think the factory choke is somehow connected to the water temp sensor on the water pump housing to give the magnet the release voltage... Gotta look into that. I don't use a choke at all on my setup. It just takes a bit of heel toe for the first couple of miles until it settles down.

most of the time...the choke cable isn't long enough...thats how i busted mine...you can replace it with an aftermarket one..but it will not get sucked in when its warm..what you have to do is get one with a pretty good tension springs..so that it goes back in..but the bad part is you either have to hold it or have something hold it in place...yes the factory one is connected to the water temp sensor in the water pump..but that can be disconnected..mine is..it doesnt harm anything..

Hmmm, sounds like this is going to be one of those "challenging" parts of the build. Well I'm determined to figure it out, meantime I suppose I can proceed without it and find some way to make it work after the fact. Next issue is tapping the inner side of the intake for my omp lines.I have a small press, so the actual drilling should be straight forward, but I'm not sure of the size hole to drill. Anyone know the size of the little barb omp fittings offhand? Thread size? i have an SAE tap and die set, but the second issue is going to be how to tap the threads in that area, curl of the intake looks to be in the way of "T" handle of tap. I suppose I could use an extension, but that makes me nervous (to much play) I don't want to trash my intake. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? Tricks?

"Next issue is tapping the inner side of the intake for my omp lines.I have a small press, so the actual drilling should be straight forward, but I'm not sure of the size hole to drill. Anyone know the size of the little barb omp fittings offhand? Thread size? i have an SAE tap and die set, but the second issue is going to be how to tap the threads in that area, curl of the intake looks to be in the way of "T" handle of tap. I suppose I could use an extension, but that makes me nervous (to much play) I don't want to trash my intake. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? Tricks?"

Nobody knows or has done this?

just run premix, much safer!

premix
 

I'll probably end up doing that, at least temporarily. ArmyofOne has a sweet setup on the DCOE he just sold, looks like a kit. Never seen it before, but once I get it figured out (find all the parts/linkage) I'll probaly go that route. But for now, I'm running out of time and money. My seven isn't roadworthy by the time my truck is gone and I'm SOL.:(