Will excessive oil in the IC lines cause stalling or rough idle?
 

I just dropped a used JDM engine into my 1992 Efini FD that is my project car. After changing the spark plugs and doing the deflooding procedure it started up good. It idled bad but I was going to adjust the TPS and see if that helped.

But now the car has an extremely hard time starting, and will stall unless I keep on the gas.

I have noticed TONS of oil in the IC lines and smokey exhaust as well. I assume the turbo oil seals are bad because I don't know what else would cause the oil in the IC lines. The car started today but then died and would not start again.

It seems harder to start the car every time I have started it since putting this engine in, could this excessive oil be one of the problems?

Thanks.

Doubtful. Have you done a compression test yet?

No but I really should. I'll do that before wasting my time on anything else.

I was just wondering if the oil would cause problems too.

Thanks for your input.

Symptom of a vacuum leak.

Yeah it actually sounded like there was a vacuum leak. I really have no idea where from though. I am going to put newer turbos on anyways so I will make sure I seal everything up when I am down there.

Okay so I did a compression test after charging my battery a bit because it had died. I got the battery tested though and it is fine it just needs to be charged really good.

Compression Test Results:

Front Rotor: 91psi
Rear Rotor: 101psi

I think those are pretty decent numbers. Car definitely has enough compression to start and keep running. I personally know someone who has his FD running fine on 70psi for a few months now without any problems.

I also tore apart the whole air intake side of the engine and put it back together carefully checking for any vacuum leaks. There shouldn't be any coming from there. The vacuum lines going off the UIM look pretty solid too, I just replaced all the hoses with silicone hoses. Also, I should mention the car is setup in non-sequential right now.

I tried starting the car today and it started and ran for about 10 seconds then started stalling out, I gave it gas and it backfired so I let off and then it stalled out. Wouldn't start back up. I plan on letting the battery sit on my charger overnight and try tomorrow.

Could the alternator not be good and after the car starts it can't keep it running? I don't know, just looking for other ideas.

Thanks, Joe.

^ Yeah it is possible. Did you check alternator output? Also if the alternator is not good or not connected your gauge cluster would illuminate all the lights.

A possibility is that, if it is carbureted, the mix is too rich and is choking the engine. Your backfiring is a sign of that.

What mods?
What ECU?

So I swapped out the turbos for a set of "less used" ones that are not leaking oil. And after doing all that and letting the battery charge, the car starts and runs. But still has a bouncing idle after it warms up.

When the car is cold it will idle around 800-1000rpm at a flat rate. As it warms up, the idle creeps up to 1500rpm and bounces between 1500-1700rpm. UNLESS I put the clutch in and put it in 1st gear, then the idle goes to 1100rpm and steadies out.

But the car will run and start on its own now. When I get on the gas it backfires a bit though, I think it is running a bit rich and it smells like it too.

In response to your questions:

Mods: non-sequential conversion, Greddy cat back and that is all
ECU: stock

Thanks,
Joe.

With regards to the hunting, surging idle, test the TPS values for low and high. Procedure is in the FAQ. Also look for vacuum leaks.

I don't know much about non-sequential but how are you dealing with all the solenoids and stuff that the stock ECU expects? Did you do a "rich man" or "poor man" non-seq conversion.

Okay I will test the TPS today and see what that reveals. If that is the culprit would it be a matter of adjusting it or replacing it all together?

And for the non-sequential conversion, I would say it is half poor and half rich mans. I deleted the solenoids and put 330ohm resistors in their place, and I wasn't getting any error codes relating to them. But I was getting an error code for the turbo control solenoid, wastegate and purge control. So I will go check on those. However the purge is still connected to vacuum I left that one in place, maybe it is stuck open causing the leak and error code?

I'll post back later.
Joe.

The turbo control and wastegate codes will probably put the car into limp mode. Either get resistors for those or put the solenoids back onto the harness connections (just don't connect up the vacuum lines).

Adjusting it should do the trick. They don't seem to fail very often on the FD. Also check your throttle body mechanical settings (see FAQ and TPS thread) as the mechanical settings will change the position of the TPS

So before I could even get the car warmed up to operating temp....the car wouldn't start. I did the whole deflood procedure just in case and still won't start. So now I have to start looking for a whole other set of problems.

Joe.