Why do many FD’s have aftermarket steering wheels?
#5
Full Member
iTrader: (14)
I don't really mind the look of it, but the size is definitely an issue since the column doesn't adjust. I'm only 6'0" tall, but even with the seat all the way back and leaned almost as far back as it'll go, the wheel still gets in the way. I've grown used to it, but at first I would always hit my knees against it when working the pedals.
#7
I don't really mind the look of it, but the size is definitely an issue since the column doesn't adjust. I'm only 6'0" tall, but even with the seat all the way back and leaned almost as far back as it'll go, the wheel still gets in the way. I've grown used to it, but at first I would always hit my knees against it when working the pedals.
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#10
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Butt weight! You get all of the above!
*The interior is tight, the stock wheel was relative large, there was no tilt or adjustment and for big guys the seat didn't have sufficient adjustment either. A removable wheel made life a lot easier for the big and tall....and some like the boy-racer image too.
*The styling of the wheel was dated. Integrating the airbag into the wheel styling wasn't totally successful on the early cars.
*The later STOCK'ish wheels were slightly smaller...IIRC only about 10mm. But the styling was, IMO, more attractive.
*I say stock'ish, because the MIATA wheels were often used with little modification and easily sourced.
*The interior is tight, the stock wheel was relative large, there was no tilt or adjustment and for big guys the seat didn't have sufficient adjustment either. A removable wheel made life a lot easier for the big and tall....and some like the boy-racer image too.
*The styling of the wheel was dated. Integrating the airbag into the wheel styling wasn't totally successful on the early cars.
*The later STOCK'ish wheels were slightly smaller...IIRC only about 10mm. But the styling was, IMO, more attractive.
*I say stock'ish, because the MIATA wheels were often used with little modification and easily sourced.
#12
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
One of those things I wished I’d done years earlier....
If interested this guy’s is a trusted seller....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...heels-1129587/
If interested this guy’s is a trusted seller....
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...heels-1129587/
#13
Junior Member
With all the newer cars that have had airbag recalls for what essentially boils down to the airbag igniter degrading over many heat-cycles, I don't trust one as old as what you'd find in an RX7 to not grenade my face in case of a crash. And first-gen airbags (not sure if all FDs are first-gen airbags, later ones might not be) have no deployment logic... so get in a 15mph fender-bender and that bomb's going to explode in your face, with the same force it's designed to if you just hit a concrete wall going triple digits.
#14
Thanks to all for replying, I appreciate the insight. Sounds like it’s a combination of many factors and I hadn’t really considered what a deployment of a 25 year old airbag would be like.
I wonder if one can use a Nardi wheel with the airbag module carefully removed to keep aesthetics in place.
I wonder if one can use a Nardi wheel with the airbag module carefully removed to keep aesthetics in place.
#15
Urban Combat Vet
iTrader: (16)
Do what you want, but Clarice may indeed be in the minority. Haven’t searched, but don’t recall hearing about many/any accidental deployments. I think it’s as often a rationalization to put in an aftermarket wheel as anything. And not sure what steps will be needed to kill the dash warning light if removed.
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alexdimen (05-10-19)
#17
Junior Member
That metal disk, on every car I've ever worked on, is either bolted or riveted onto the rest of the airbag module (that is, the metal frame that the fabric pillow is attached to, and the plastic outer shell) using a square bracket with one fastener at each corner. You just need to undo the nuts (if it's bolted on) or drill out the heads (if it's riveted on), and the metal disk/igniter can be removed and discarded. This leave you with the airbag frame and plastic outer shell, which can be reattached to the steering wheel and visually look unmodified. It's also a bit spongy, so it's sort of equivalent to stock wheels on a lot of cars from the 80s where it had some pillowing as at least a slight softener in case of impact.
I've never looked at the back of an FD wheel's airbag module, though I do know that the NA Miata used bolts (with 10mm nuts) to hold the airbag igniter on instead of rivets. I'd wager a guess that it's probably the same design. Undoing nuts feels much less sketchy than having to drill out rivets on an explosive charge, which is nice.
If you do decide to do this, as with any airbag work, approach with EXTREME caution. Eye protection for sure, only face the rear of the airbag module, and work in an open area that nothing would be struck by an unexpected airbag ignition. Basically treat it like a firearm, which is pretty much what it is!
1) Removing the airbag warning light will likely cause the airbag computer to start beeping. This is a design feature so that if the airbag light ever burned out, you would know that there is something wrong with the system.
2) To stop the beeping, you need to unplug the airbag computer. This will disable the whole airbag system, of course.
3) Before you actually unplug the airbag computer, determine if the airbag system in the vehicle uses a backup power source. Many vehicles use a large capacitor (probably buried under the dash). This is designed to be able to provide the power to trigger the airbags in case of an accident where the battery connection/circuit was severed.
4) Unplug the airbag capacitor/backup power source if it exists. If not disconnected, the system could still be powered and you risk having something trigger the airbags.
5) Actually disconnect the airbag computer. It's usually buried under the dashboard, often behind the radio stack or on the inner side of the steering column. Obviously the idea was to put it somewhere likely to survive the onset of a crash, so that the system will be able to operate. (a quick Google suggests it's behind the plastic cover of the trans tunnel on the FD, basically immediately to the right of the gas pedal)
6) At this point, I like to unplug the airbag(s) themselves before starting the car. That way, you've ensured there is no fail-safe circuit or something that's going to power the airbag igniter wires and trigger the airbag. Ideally, I'd just remove the igniter completely, as described above.
Sometimes you can get away with leaving the dash light in the cluster and just unplugging the computer, but other times, the circuit is designed to trigger the light if the computer's circuit is not completing.
Having a wiring diagram for the airbag system is very helpful when attempting to disable it. Reference a factory service manual or other source that outlines the whole system to ensure nothing is missed!
Last edited by Clarice; 05-10-19 at 10:57 AM.
#19
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I personally swap out all my steering wheels for a nardi deepcorn because:-
1) I prefer the way it looks. I think deep corns look amazing.
2) I prefer the ergonomics. Generally if my legs are at a comfortable position, my arms are stretched too far out. Having a QR + Deep corn has solved that on all of my cars.
3) QR is a blessing for bucket seats. I'm skinny enough to fit into a bucket without removing the steering wheel or moving the seat, but whenever I have a friend drive it, it's nice to have the option to save my seating position.
4) It looks cool! hahaha
1) I prefer the way it looks. I think deep corns look amazing.
2) I prefer the ergonomics. Generally if my legs are at a comfortable position, my arms are stretched too far out. Having a QR + Deep corn has solved that on all of my cars.
3) QR is a blessing for bucket seats. I'm skinny enough to fit into a bucket without removing the steering wheel or moving the seat, but whenever I have a friend drive it, it's nice to have the option to save my seating position.
4) It looks cool! hahaha
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