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Whats a good clutch for a mildly build fd
Hey everyone in the process of rebuilding and street porting my motor on my 94 fd. The car is completely stock as of now but im purchasing many parts as i get ready to rebuild. Im installing hks down pipe to racing beat mid pipe to racing beat catback for the exhaust. Im also installing a smic with a pre made fabricated cold air intake box system. Going to probably match those upgrades with a power fc not sure if im going that route yet maybe a another stand-alone could use some help on this topic as well . Im also doing some maintenance as well such as replacing the radiator to koyo, replacing turbo hoses, vaccum lines, oil cooler lines. Was wondering what clutch would you recommend for daily driving dont want a clutch with a harsh feeling while the motors out im going to be replacing the transmission fluid as well what would you recommend for the fluid as well. Thank you would greatly appreciate any and all feedback |
*The PFC is a standalone. *The stock oil cooler lines are usually pretty robust, fit, and work just fine. Why are you replacing them? *ACT Street-Strip is popular and what I've been running for years, but there are others. Consider replacing the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing/dust seal as well. The clutch fork has also been know to fatigue and break with time and after adding a stiffer pressure plate, so replacing that with whatever clutch package you choose should be on the list. *Any synthetic 75w-90. NEO, Redline and Royal Purple are popular choices, but there are others. And IMO it's easier to drain and add the proper amount of fluid with the transmission/engine in the car and the car level. Follow the FSM instructions. A rear transmission seal is also a good item to replace. |
Thank you for the feed back just replacing all the lines and hoses because before I bought it car was sitting for about 10 years so just going over everything. Probably gonna replace the oil cooler lines with oem from dealer. And was looking at the act street strip clutch says it comes with the pilot bearing and release bearing. Is the release bearing different from the throw out bearing and is there one dust seal. Thanks again for the feedback greatly appreciated. |
Originally Posted by Rotary809
(Post 12333784)
….the act street strip clutch says it comes with the pilot bearing and release bearing. Is the release bearing different from the throw out bearing and is there one dust seal. Thanks again for the feedback greatly appreciated. |
https://www.irperformance.com/produc...lutch-93-rx-7/ yeah they mustve upgraded and added the bearings. |
That’s probably a decent value and convenient package put together by IR Performance. You typically only get the ACT items. I still would recommend a new clutch fork. |
Ok thanks for the help and feed back gonna replace the clutch fork with one from Atkins Rotary |
Hey Sgtblue you seem to know your **** was wondering if you could help me with something. Im scared that once I upgrade the whole exhaust there’s gonna be to much air flow going into the turbos and im going to have boost creep. Im installing all these parts i have listed above while im rebuilding and porting my motor dont wanna have boost creep especially while im breaking her in and blow my baby up. What would you recommend do to prevent boost creep from happening? Thanks in advance you already been a big help i owe you a drink or two.🍻🍻 |
Originally Posted by Rotary809
(Post 12333957)
Ok thanks for the help and feed back gonna replace the clutch fork with one from Atkins Rotary |
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
(Post 12334114)
We have the clutch fork in stock
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If you haven't already see it, scroll down to 'C' for "Clutch" and watch the video on dealing with the pull-type clutch. It's easy, but can puzzle the first-timer.....
---> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...l-links-68640/
Originally Posted by Rotary809
(Post 12334028)
Im scared that once I upgrade the whole exhaust there’s gonna be to much air flow going into the turbos and im going to have boost creep....What would you recommend do to prevent boost creep from happening? Just leave a little back-pressure in the system. You can use the stock cat or move to a hi-flow cat like Bonez or RX7store. No personal experience but some claim that just a resonated mid-pipe is enough. The other option is that while the engine is out and the turbos are off, you can port the internal wastegate. Look thru the sticky I linked to above or search in the 3rd Gen. Tech section for more info. |
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12333943)
That’s probably a decent value and convenient package put together by IR Performance. You typically only get the ACT items. I still would recommend a new clutch fork. |
It was a bit of a design flaw, at least in the early models. IIRC the placement of a roll-pin created a weak spot and over time they could fail. The failure risk went up with a stiffer pressure plate. They would simply break or bend at the roll-pin and you just couldn't disengage the clutch to put it in gear. I assume the OP's car has the original. The issue was addressed by MAZDA in later years...can't recall off-hand if they changed the metallurgy or added material....or both. Last I looked they were about $125 or so, U.S. That's not really cheap, but it would sure suck to have to drop the transmission a second time.
Not much help, but best picture I have.....you can see the roll-pin on the lower half of the 'fork'..... http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...pseb9e96b0.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 12334757)
It was a bit of a design flaw, at least in the early models. IIRC the placement of a roll-pin created a weak spot and over time they could fail. The failure risk went up with a stiffer pressure plate. They would simply break or bend at the roll-pin and you just couldn't disengage the clutch to put it in gear. I assume the OP's car has the original. The issue was addressed by MAZDA in later years...can't recall off-hand if they changed the metallurgy or added material....or both. Last I looked they were about $125 or so, U.S. That's not really cheap, but it would sure suck to have to drop the transmission a second time.
Not much help, but best picture I have.....you can see the roll-pin on the lower half of the 'fork'..... https://i1126.photobucket.com/albums...pseb9e96b0.jpg I assume this has been fixed on my '99 model, but will have a look when I get to dropping the tranny. |
Meh, not so unforgiveable IMO. They didn't universally fail. There's probably still a lot of cars out there with the original fork. But the percentage of failures increased with age, and as guys added stiffer pressure plates for the modified and higher powered cars. Maybe describing it as a flaw wasn't fair. I think of it as just not having a lot of head-room in the design. If the OP was replacing the clutch with OEM spec I may not have even mentioned it.
And yes, pretty sure the design was tweaked by 99. More info on the subject ----> https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...h-fork-805530/ |
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