Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 10847024)
Damn, I'm almost never at Cayuga since Sparta is only a 20 minute drive from my place.
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FC, 13B 6 port, bridgeport, GT40R, 500 RWHP.
Next year I'll actually have some tire on the car at Sparta so I should be able to lay down some respectable times for the HP level. As opposed to mid 12s on 215s. :) |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 10850516)
FC, 13B 6 port, bridgeport, GT40R, 500 RWHP.
Next year I'll actually have some tire on the car at Sparta so I should be able to lay down some respectable times for the HP level. As opposed to mid 12s on 215s. :) |
Originally Posted by rx7joes
(Post 10851539)
I went 11.40 on a 225 what's your point
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 10852665)
My point was that I need tire at my power level to put down some respectable times. A 300HP 2nd gen with a set of cheater slicks is about as fast as my car in the 1/4 mile with my 215 all seasons. Your 1st gen is also a solid axle car.
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Whoa, are you suggesting I put a solid axle in my 2nd gen? :) No way, I'm not big into downgrading cars. If I was building a pure drag car I'd definitely go that route but for an all around car that I want to toss through corners, use at the autocross, beat on at the drag strip and drive all the time, it's not an option. Since my car has RB springs, KYB AGXs and full poly bushings it already out handles me quite easily. :D Plus with a set of cheater slicks and a bit of squat dialed into the rear, I'd be in the high 10s (next spring...).
There were several mini-meets at Sparta last year and I assume we'll do the same thing this year. Hopefully you can make it down. There's another owner (AndyD on this forum) with an LS1 2nd gen. |
well i think it would just be best to go with a 13B-t and modify that. just my 2 cents.
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 10854059)
Whoa, are you suggesting I put a solid axle in my 2nd gen? :) No way, I'm not big into downgrading cars. If I was building a pure drag car I'd definitely go that route but for an all around car that I want to toss through corners, use at the autocross, beat on at the drag strip and drive all the time, it's not an option. Since my car has RB springs, KYB AGXs and full poly bushings it already out handles me quite easily. :D Plus with a set of cheater slicks and a bit of squat dialed into the rear, I'd be in the high 10s (next spring...).
There were several mini-meets at Sparta last year and I assume we'll do the same thing this year. Hopefully you can make it down. There's another owner (AndyD on this forum) with an LS1 2nd gen. |
It depends. If we actually organize one there's usually 8 cars or so. There hasn't been a London meet for a while so I'd think next year one should take place. :)
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I let the OP drive my FB. Hes hooked. Old school rotary ftmfw.
Im gonna help him find an 84-85 SE and get him started on a similar build to AC's Cosmo projects 6 port. Hes kinda a rotary n00b lol. I actually put the whole rx7 stuff into his head :egrin: Such a terrible influence. |
hmmmmm
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4 rotor sounds intriguing
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i think i wanna try and build a 4 rotor
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lol a 4 rotor dang you jumped right past a 3 rotor. good luck running that let alone building it..
go for the turbo |
4 rotors.... suck a lot of gas :(
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Originally Posted by Slim13rx
(Post 10860961)
i think i wanna try and build a 4 rotor
You don't need to do the same machine work he is doing if you buy a kit from Kiwi RE or similar, but the kit does cost $7,000 NZ last time I checked. http://www.kiwi-re.com/wwd_showroom_cat10_2.php . And you'll need to supply your own housings, rotors, seals, gaskets, irons, oil pan, dry sump, intake, exhaust, EMS, fuel system, etc. etc. But really, why? How much power do you need? 400HP is easy out of a street ported 13B and a 400HP RX-7 is stupid fast. It's a 10 second car with traction. 600HP out of a 20B is fairly standard these days and that falls into the "insane" category for street cars. 4 rotor power levels go up from there, even NA. |
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 10862738)
That being the case, head over to the 2nd gen forum builds subforum. There is currently someone building a 4 rotor. You'll see what's involved.
You don't need to do the same machine work he is doing if you buy a kit from Kiwi RE or similar, but the kit does cost $7,000 NZ last time I checked. http://www.kiwi-re.com/wwd_showroom_cat10_2.php . And you'll need to supply your own housings, rotors, seals, gaskets, irons, oil pan, dry sump, intake, exhaust, EMS, fuel system, etc. etc. But really, why? How much power do you need? 400HP is easy out of a street ported 13B and a 400HP RX-7 is stupid fast. It's a 10 second car with traction. 600HP out of a 20B is fairly standard these days and that falls into the "insane" category for street cars. 4 rotor power levels go up from there, even NA. |
Aaron Cake, you're seriously overestimating how much power an NA 4-rotor can make. Even the 787B only made 670 HP, and a build like that is far out of reach for most of us, and certainly wouldn't work in a street car. A better example is the Scoot 4-rotor, which allegedly makes 365 HP with a peripheral port 12A-based motor and a streetable exhaust system (it's unclear whether that's at the flywheel or at the wheels, but I'm assuming it's at the wheels). Which is about right considering the output of most street-driven p-port 12As. Still plenty fast, but it's not stupid power. Getting the same numbers from a 13BT is easy, with less weight and less cost.
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damm it thats such a good ? i was think about that same thing two nites ago dont get me wrong im a rotorhead till i die. but a 2nd gen rx7 with a ls1 will be ur answer keep it in mind.
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yeahh uhm deff a no for the v8 ideas that just ruins the car..I'm havin my buddy help me decide and my main build is gonna be around the SE. Thanks AC for the info. :)
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