What does this wire do?
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ACV (air control valve)
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11806719)
ACV (air control valve)
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It's for emission purposes. If you had an S5 you would likely get an error code.
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he has an 87.
the best light he has is a glove box light..lol! |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11806901)
he has an 87.
the best light he has is a glove box light..lol! |
The ACV has two solenoids, one is the split air and the other is the port air. Use the advanced search feature and type one of the two in followed by hailers and do a search and you'll find out everything you need to know.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11807131)
The ACV has two solenoids, one is the split air and the other is the port air. Use the advanced search feature and type one of the two in followed by hailers and do a search and you'll find out everything you need to know.
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Hailers is the most authoritative member on this site as it pertains to items such as the ACV and its associated components. You were being done a favor by being advised to type in his name after the search heading as it would have reduced the search possibilities immensely. You no like then no like.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11807406)
Hailers is the most authoritative member on this site as it pertains to items such as the ACV and its associated components. You were being done a favor by being advised to type in his name after the search heading as it would have reduced the search possibilities immensely. You no like then no like.
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It's either the port air or the split air. The wiring diagram will tell you which. Port has the Black/Red wire and the split has the White wire connected to it (S4). Again, it is for emissions and it should not affect the driveability.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11807613)
It's either the port air or the split air. The wiring diagram will tell you which. Port has the Black/Red wire and the split has the White wire connected to it (S4). Again, it is for emissions and it should not affect the driveability.
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Headlight- running lights are right up my dark alley so go ahead and continue your search for info right here in this thread.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11807854)
Headlight- running lights are right up my dark alley so go ahead and continue your search for info right here in this thread.
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S4 or S5? And make sure the 15 amp illumination fuse (interior fuse box) is good. The reverse lights are related to the back up switch that is part of the tansmission. It has 2 wires. The Black/Yellow has voltage w/key to on. The Red/Green wire then gets power w/the car in reverse.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11807902)
S4 or S5? And make sure the 15 amp illumination fuse (interior fuse box) is good. The reverse lights are related to the back up switch that is part of the tansmission. It has 2 wires. The Black/Yellow has voltage w/key to on. The Red/Green wire then gets power w/the car in reverse.
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If the illumination fuse is good then the White/Green wire at the headlight switch would have constant voltage. W/the switch knob turned to the first position then voltage would be found on the Red/Black and Red/Green wires. The cigarette lighter light is powered by the R/G wire as are the dash lights. If you gain access to the lighter's R/G wire then it should have voltage w/the knob turned to the first position. If it doesn't then the switch is likely the cause. If the lights pop up then the ground wire feeding the switch is not the problem w/the R/G wire not receiving voltage.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11808006)
If the illumination fuse is good then the White/Green wire at the headlight switch would have constant voltage. W/the switch knob turned to the first position then voltage would be found on the Red/Black and Red/Green wires. The cigarette lighter light is powered by the R/G wire as are the dash lights. If you gain access to the lighter's R/G wire then it should have voltage w/the knob turned to the first position. If it doesn't then the switch is likely the cause. If the lights pop up then the ground wire feeding the switch is not the problem w/the R/G wire not receiving voltage.
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The light for the cigarette lighter and the lighter working are independent of each other. With that said, if the light is working then the lights for the turn signal switch, wiper switch and dash lights should work.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11808202)
The light for the cigarette lighter and the lighter working are independent of each other. With that said, if the light is working then the lights for the turn signal switch, wiper switch and dash lights should work.
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ok, so I got the running lights to work, the "shift up"light, the high beams, the highbeams light, the little lights near the knobs that show what they do. The actual dash lights dont work, or the reverse lights. Also the cig lighter doesnt light up. Not to mention the thing in the center with all the lights on it is wacked out and the clock only works if i really press on the plug. The radio was wired in by a hackjob so idk whats up.
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The Red/Green wire at the switch harness powers the dash lights. Does it have voltage w/the knob turned to the 1st position? If it doesn't then there is a problem at the switch. Also, make sure the dial within the knob is turned all the way from the dim setting or the dash lights will appear as if they are not on.
The reverse lights are not controlled by the headlight switch. The meter fuse powers the Black/Yellow wire at the reverse switch so make sure it is receiving voltage w/key to on. The switch is connected to the driver's side of the transmission housing. The other wire connected to the switch is Red/Green. If the B/Y has voltage w/key to on and the car is in reverse then the R/G wire should then have power and if it doesn't then the switch is bad. If the R/G wire has power by chance then the reverse light bulbs are problematic or the ground to them is bad. The meter fuse powers the warning light cluster (via the B/Y wire). Most of all of the lights should turn on w/key to on. Do they? This unit usually has problems due to poor soldering from the factory. If all else fails it might require that the cold solder needs to be resoldered. |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11816715)
The Red/Green wire at the switch harness powers the dash lights. Does it have voltage w/the knob turned to the 1st position? If it doesn't then there is a problem at the switch. Also, make sure the dial within the knob is turned all the way from the dim setting or the dash lights will appear as if they are not on.
The reverse lights are not controlled by the headlight switch. The meter fuse powers the Black/Yellow wire at the reverse switch so make sure it is receiving voltage w/key to on. The switch is connected to the driver's side of the transmission housing. The other wire connected to the switch is Red/Green. If the B/Y has voltage w/key to on and the car is in reverse then the R/G wire should then have power and if it doesn't then the switch is bad. If the R/G wire has power by chance then the reverse light bulbs are problematic or the ground to them is bad. The meter fuse powers the warning light cluster (via the B/Y wire). Most of all of the lights should turn on w/key to on. Do they? This unit usually has problems due to poor soldering from the factory. If all else fails it might require that the cold solder needs to be resoldered. |
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