turbo II charging issues
 

Im new too this but I need some help I just bought a 87 turbo II I test drove it
everything was fine and otw home the gauge cluster and the warning light went
out then the car started cutting out like it was starving for fuel. I made it home
Realized the alternator wasnt charging it was just running off the battery
But the car never died lights werent dim it was running on a little over 12 volts
I know the minimum is 13.5. I ordered a new alternator it will be here Tuesday
but I dont think that is going to fix all my issues. Doesnt explain why just the gauges
and the warning lights dont work.. everything else works but the car breaks up
im sure thats just from low battery voltage it ran fine and everything worked when the
Alternator were charging. Trying to find diagrams maybe see if any of this may be
related. If you can throw me some ideas it would be greatly appreciated

Gauges (minus speedometer) works off of the meter fuse.

First thing I did was check all the fuses. Im curious if all these concerns maybe related
or if a faulty alternator would cause these issues. Not having much luck finding witing diagrams
That really show me what I need to know nobody local has a repair Manuel so im going to
replace the Alternator belt and battery tommorow and retest id like to have a book to show me
spices and grounds and what feeds what to go off off.

Please forgive me for stating this, but have you read the Second Generation FAQ, stickied at the top? There are links to the Factory Service Manual in this article.
https://www.rx7club.com/new-member-r...faq-fc-782402/

S4 (86-88) alternators are notoriously overworked and most any electrical flaw in the car (such as aged, dirty grounds) can easily push the little 70A alternators into failure. Also,if your new one is one from the parts store, you can count on replacing it regularly.

My advice is to acquire a FD Alternator (a Mazda one, not a parts store one) and the proper adapter pulley from Mazdatrix or Atkins Rotary. It puts out 100 amps compared to the stock 70 amp unit. This was the first mod I did to my car and it was well worth it. Correct wiring information can be found in my picture album.

Another option is the 130 amp Taurus Alternator, which I've had in my car for about 4 years now. It's a bit more work to adapt, but it's a solid, common, inexpensive part that you can get at any junkyard.

Thanks for that ive been reading on it. I have all the charging issues fixed replaced the alternator battery and belt anand terminals charging at almost 14 volts. Now I have a short to ground somewhere in gauge cluster which the circuit also feeds the a/c fan sport suspension and warning lights this fuse doesnt blow right away in takes 20 mins or so thats where im at now. Also car doesnt want to idle when its cold but once it gets warm it does already it will stumble time to time it ive done most of the maintenance it has a new 255 walboro pump new fuel fuel havent replaced the plugs and wires but they look fairly new it doesnt have a issues building boost or breaking up mainly at idle.

Oh ans forgot to add it doesnt want to start after running for awhile once its hott like its flooding out I can pull the injector fuse and usually get it to run again.

Ive already swapped gague clusters checked the wiring behind the dash inspected the warning light harness unplugged the sport suspension and the a/c cooling fan did notice that fan was coming on soon as I turned the key on after messing around with everything the fan no longer comes on with the key on but when the fuse blows I loose all the gauges warning lights and the car feels like it looses most of its power it also has so ecat on that circuit no sure what that is ive been looking thru mazdas repair Manuel online but im starting to feel stuck not surewhat to do im trying not to ccompletely tear the car apart

I hate to keep adding stuff but also noticed the clutch fan is always engaged its super loud and kind of annoying you can barley hear the turbo spooling or the blow off valve mainly just fan noise lol sounds like a mac truck I was going to go to a electric fan but not sure what to go for and I dont want yo wire it to any kind of toggle switch id like it wire it were it would come on only when it needed it

You need to check all things powered by the meter fuse. The fuse powers the reverse switch located on the transmission housing and this switch is very problematic because it's in a position open to the weather elements. The CPU's largest plug also has a B/Y wire powered by the meter fuse.

Powered by meter fuse (which you seem to have omitted checking).

Alarm, cruise control, alternator warning light relay in the CPU and warning system also in the CPU.

And the fuse blowing should have no bearing on how the engine runs at all.

Use the advanced search feature and you'll find what and how it's done.

The fuse doesnt blow when i put it into reverse does that rule it out? And is there a main connector that those circuits go thru that I can take a pin out at a time and see whats causing the short to ground? I dont see anything else wired into that circuit as far is aftermarket stuff or anything the boost and air to fuel gauge and the radio isnt wired to the circuit. But something has to be to make the car sluggish and run lean after the fuse blows.

Voltage flows to the reverse switch w/the key to on regardless of the gearing position. And there is no central or main connector other than the fuse itself.

Thanks for the reply. And I got it fixed it was the reverse switch shorting out the lights didnt work I used a power probe at the switch and shot power to the lights and they came on and I noticed putting it in reverse and in fifth gear the warning lights and stuff would go dim so for now I have it unplugged and it has blown yet :) so after that I test drove it I the primary fuel line going to the secondary blew apart shooting fuel everywhere so I have to fix that but what emissions can I remove? And what electric fan should I run I dont like the clutch fan I think its bad it sounds like its always engaged

Use the search feature as suggested and all your answers will be covered. As far as emissions removal I personally think it's a silly thing to do for most who do end up posting why their car has running issues.

Well for now id like to just remove the air pump I dont have any cats anyways but not trying to spend 400 bucks on pulleys just to delete it. Im alright with everything else. And I was reading that its best to just keep the stock clutch fan rather than going to a electric fan but im just looking for a cleaner engine bay not to metion easier to work on with all that stuff gone and I was look at a v mount intercooler and cant run it with the fan shroud and clutch fan. Just looking at different options

Ive been doing some research and im going to remove the air pump I have a duel alternator pulley but do I get the yahoo belt still im kind of confused what is the best route to go?