Where'd you get the jdm block from and have you, personally compression tested it?

Your setup seems fine. I'm not familiar with the AEM box, but it sounds like it should do the job if installed correctly and doesn't lose power during cranking.

As for the ignition switch, it has 4 positions, Off, Accessory, On, Start. 'On' refers to the position the key returns to after you turn it to start.

I loaded the fsm on my android smartphone using astro file manager and adobe reader. Works pretty well.

The T2 block, tranny, rear, and ecu was purchased through a jdm warehouse and was tore down and rebuilt with a "stage 1" mild street port by Ernst at rx7world in SC.

The aem box I have to get a wiring diagram for to make sure it's wired correctly. As I didn't install it...

And I have an iPhone 4s and I can't download adobe reader for some reason. I'm not sure if there's some program I can get to view the FSM cause I'm seriously computer dumb...

Ok thank you for explaining that. I'll get to checking that when I can. It's gonna be a couple days til I can get back to it.

It would be adviseable to remove your fuel cut switch so as to return the fuel system back to a stock configuration and go from there.

For sure. I only did that to ensure the pump was working.

Ok back at it. I checked the wiring diagram for the aem injector driver box and all seems to be hooked up correctly. So I pulled the injectors out while still attached to the fuel rail and turned on the pump and got no spray at all. The pressure builds up to 42psi and then blows off on of the secondary's... Soooo... In theory my car is hard starting with the starting fluid and once it turns over enough it's sucking the fuel out of the lines??? That would explain why it builds 42psi then once it starts it drops to 32? These are just my thoughts so correct me if I'm wrong... What would cause the primary's to not prime the motor?

Did you do this to the primary or secondary injectors and was the key to start when doing this?

I pulled both the primary's and secondary's... After calling racing beat they explained that the injectors won't spray fuel until the motor is cranking over with key in start position... I didn't know that before I posted this I should have called them first before posting. And no I didn't do this with the key to start only off and on. I have to get a buddy to help me out as I can't crank the motor and watch the injectors at the same time.

You do not need any assistance for all you have to do is pull the CAS and w/it plugged in, and the fuel check connector jumpered, and the key to on you spin the cog at the bottom of the CAS and the primary injectors will fire. The secondary injectors only work w/load on the car and an engine speed of over 3800 rpm so you won't be able to get them to work in a normal test as you are trying to do. The coils will also fire so you "might" want to disconnect the electrical plugs to them.

Great idea! I'm gonna do this after work tomorrow. Thanx so much that'll save me the headache of waiting for someone and I really didn't want to crank it over. So when your lookin at the CAS when it's stabbed in it spins clockwise right? I just wanna make sure I'm spinning the cog the right way

I believe it doesn't matter which direction.

Ok so I turned the fuel pump on, turned the key to "on", pulled the CAS and spun the bottom gear. It's firing all the coil packs but not spraying ANY fuel out of the primary injectors. Now what?

Do you still have the fuel pump wired up in non-factory mode. If so, maybe it's time to revert back to how it's supposed to be wired. And which injectors are the easiest to access? Secondary or primary? And I had to ask this.

Pin 3E of the ECU has a light Green wire (no stripe) and this is the front primary injector. Pull the ECU plug housing this wire and do a continuity test on this wire and see if it "rings out."

Yes I still have the pump to a switch cause I figured this way that ensures that the pump is on. When I first got the car it had this starting issue so I wanted to ensure the pump is on. I'll check continuity between the ecu and injectors next. And neither are really accessible the secondary's are I guess easier to get to but I still gotta take off upper intake to reach them or pull them out. So I just pulled both fuel rails, primary's and secondary's.

And when you do the continuity test before that w/key to on and measure for battery voltage on the ECU injector wire as this will tell you if the injector plug is properly mated to the injector. Do this for pin 3E and 3C (3C is a light Green/Black wire). Please remove the fuel pump wiring you added so it it's easier to understand what is going on for there's no reason to complicate things more than needed.