Starter cut relay, 1993 FD touring 5sp
 

Hello all,

I've started to look into the cranking problem my father has with his 93' touring 5sp. The problem we are experiencing is that the car will not crank over. It's not a battery or cable issue, nor is it the clutch safety switch. With the key in the crank position, there is no power going to the starter solenoid. Every once in a while it will crank over and start right up.

So, I'm looking into whether the issue is the column switch or the starter cut relay. I'm working with a schematic but do not have a shop manual.

Where is the location of this starter cut relay? Is it easily identified?

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks in advance,

I just found th thread on the B302 relay (starter interrupt ) behind the drivers side kick panel. Going to try that first.

Well, that wasn't the problem. The relay was bench tested and works fine. The search continues.

Are there any other relays in the starting circuit that I may have missed?

Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

did you test the ignition switch? it's actually the easiest component to check but not sure why it is last on everyone's list.

are you positive there is no voltage to the starter spade connector?

The ignition switch is my next item to check. The trigger terminal on the starter was my first thing to look at, and yes, no power getting there.

I feel like you're describing the infamous click click start issue. Is that what you're describing? If so, of you search the term click click start, there's a few fixes out for it. The one using a relay seems to be the most successful.

wouldn't be that, if there is no voltage present to the starter signal wire and why i asked that specific question. the issue is more in depth than anything the simple booster relay can fix, even though it will help the problem from ever returning.

most likely it is a failing ignition switch or some aftermarket alarm remnants.

Coincidentally, I've just been having a similar starting issue. I've done the starter relay mod in the past and that has worked great until recently. Most recently I was getting more of a no click, no click, start. Also if I left the key in the ignition I would hear sporadic clicks from the starter disable relay (blue h302 in the driver footwell). This led me to believe that the relay had completely sh*t the bed at this point. I ripped it out and did the jumper mod and now the car starts perfectly again. I'd recommend that you try the same.

This weekend, I'll dig into it further and look into the key switch itself. Free time is in short supply.

I only wish it was that B302 relay by the dead pedal.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone and BIG thanks to RotoryEvoloution for posting the shop manual!! That will be of invaluable help.

Ok, I found the problem, and it was super simple. Some corrosion had formed in the spade connector on the starter solenoid which was why there was no reading with the key in the crank position. I cleaned the terminal itself, and used a tiny flat blade screwdriver to chase out the spade connector without stretching it out. I also applied some electrical grease. It worked , but one attempt didn't, so I'll replace the factory connector today with one I know will have a more consistant connection.

As it turns out, it wasn't just the corroded spade connector on the solenoid that was it issue. It needed one of Pettits starter boost relays. Being that Pettit's shop is only 15 minutes away from me, my Father on his own went over there, bought the relay kit and installed it himself. Pretty good for a 76 year old guy!

It seems all good now according to Dad.

Now I just have to motivate him into getting it detailed so it can be posted for sale.

I was searching the forum for posts relating to "what it it worth" but came up with nothing.

9,280 original miles, Pettit down pipe Racing Beat exhaust, some intake work also done at Pettit's shop, stock turbos and boost pressures. Always garaged, but has some blemishes and stone chips(nothing major), no accidents ever, factory paint.