S4 Turbo II no injector pulse
So my car has been undergoing a bit of work over the past few months. Nothing terribly major, but I've run into an issue at this point.
I have a Power FC and Banzai Racing adapter harness and when I attempt to start the engine the injectors are not pulsing despite the Power FC showing it's percieved duty cycle. Here's what I have done so far in an attempt to correct the issue:
I've also cleaned all of my grounds besides the starter ground. I have fuel pressure while cranking and a very strong spark from the coils. I cannot figure out whats going on, absolutely no fuel sprays from the primaries during start up. Prior to the Power FC install, I was having an issue with the engine bucking while under light load which I thought was TPS related (replaced with a new one now). Never had any issues starting and idling though, just random lean spots while going over bumps and turning. Also if I had the car idling to operating temp, I would open the door and sit down and it would die as if the engine was out of fuel and then start right back up no problem (I figured this was related with the issue of going lean over bumpy roads, hence the reason I replaced the old broken harness thinking there was a short). Any ideas? I'm stumped. Thanks, Steven |
Have you verified 12V at the injectors with the key on IGN?
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 11167248)
Have you verified 12V at the injectors with the key on IGN?
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Probe at the respective ECU pins. 3C, 3F, 3E and 3H.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11167288)
Probe at the respective ECU pins. 3C, 3F, 3E and 3H.
Thank you |
Check voltage at the injector connectors. The PFC only supplies ground to open the injectors.
Also since you have a PFC the injector wire are 4W, 4X, 4Y, 4Z, but again that is not for checking voltage. Pull the UIM, use a spare injector connector on the injectors and supply 12V & ground , listen for a click on each and check for spray on the secondaries. Fuel pump should prime as soon as you turn the key to the on position, it should not just have fuel pressure while cranking. Double check your connection to the COR. |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11167613)
Check voltage at the injector connectors. The PFC only supplies ground to open the injectors.
Also since you have a PFC the injector wire are 4W, 4X, 4Y, 4Z, but again that is not for checking voltage. Pull the UIM, use a spare injector connector on the injectors and supply 12V & ground , listen for a click on each and check for spray on the secondaries. Fuel pump should prime as soon as you turn the key to the on position, it should not just have fuel pressure while cranking. Double check your connection to the COR. I will try this method when it cools down a bit outside. As far as the fuel pump is concerned, it primes when the key is switched on and then runs as it should during cranking. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11167613)
Check voltage at the injector connectors. The PFC only supplies ground to open the injectors.
Also since you have a PFC the injector wire are 4W, 4X, 4Y, 4Z, but again that is not for checking voltage. Pull the UIM, use a spare injector connector on the injectors and supply 12V & ground , listen for a click on each and check for spray on the secondaries. Fuel pump should prime as soon as you turn the key to the on position, it should not just have fuel pressure while cranking. Double check your connection to the COR. |
Are you focusing on the primary injectors as the secondaries don't work unless under load and above 3800 rpm.
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Do you have spark while cranking?
Happen to have a spare crank angle sensor? Plug it in, spin it and see if you hear the injectors work. |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11168803)
Do you have spark while cranking?
Happen to have a spare crank angle sensor? Plug it in, spin it and see if you hear the injectors work. |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11168803)
Do you have spark while cranking?
Happen to have a spare crank angle sensor? Plug it in, spin it and see if you hear the injectors work. |
Are you certain that you are getting fuel?
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Sounds like you are losing voltage to the ECU or the injectors while cranking. Power to the injectors comes from the main relay.
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11169199)
Sounds like you are losing voltage to the ECU or the injectors while cranking. Power to the injectors comes from the main relay.
Thank you Edit: the clock's issue is in the warning light panel itself, but the horn's intermittent issue could be related to the odd loss of power going over bumps in the road if the CPU points need to be re-soldered correct? |
CPU doesn't play a role. And in a stock situation w/the key to on the Engine fuse powers the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the pump.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11169934)
CPU doesn't play a role. And in a stock situation w/the key to on the Engine fuse powers the Circuit Opening Relay which powers the pump.
Thanks |
In my past comment I meant to say "w/the car running and the key to on." But if you want to bypass the Main Relay all you would need to do is remove the four wire plug to the relay, which has two plugs in all, and jumper the B/G to B/Y and B/W to W/L. You can then see if the relay was faulty and thus the cause of your problem although don't leave the jumpers in place as this could eventually drain the battery.
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Fuel pump will prime since you are getting power to the ECU and COR with the key in the on position, ths issue appears to be when you turn the key to start. This is when it is critical that the power to the ECU does not get interupted. Power is supplied by the main relay to pin 1C.
A quick test is to push start the car. If it starts and runs then you have narrowed down your search. Keep in mind that all the fuel injector testing has dumped a lot of fuel into your engine. |
Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 11170115)
Fuel pump will prime since you are getting power to the ECU and COR with the key in the on position, ths issue appears to be when you turn the key to start. This is when it is critical that the power to the ECU does not get interupted. Power is supplied by the main relay to pin 1C.
A quick test is to push start the car. If it starts and runs then you have narrowed down your search. Keep in mind that all the fuel injector testing has dumped a lot of fuel into your engine. |
Have you checked the voltage at pin 1C (for your aftermarket Power FC) w/key to start? The voltage should be 12 volts w/key to on but upon startup the voltage would drop as voltage is supplied to the starter. Voltage would normally drop down to around 9 volts or so. If it is too low then it might not be enough to power the PFC thus causing your problem.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11175086)
Have you checked the voltage at pin 1C (for your aftermarket Power FC) w/key to start? The voltage should be 12 volts w/key to on but upon startup the voltage would drop as voltage is supplied to the starter. Voltage would normally drop down to around 9 volts or so. If it is too low then it might not be enough to power the PFC thus causing your problem.
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The voltage should be more than adequate.
Have your primary injectors ever worked properly after the installation of the PFC? |
Originally Posted by satch
(Post 11175135)
The voltage should be more than adequate.
Have your primary injectors ever worked properly after the installation of the PFC? |
The FD car you tested it in I would assume had a PFC to begin with and you just switched yours for the existing one?
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