Rat's Nest - Solenoid Rack - Whoops - Need Help!
 

Jumped into the rat's nest today. Car's a JDM 92 FD. Below is a picture of the "thingies" i broke. The first one is bolted to the top of the intake manifold by itself. Has 2 vacuum nipples, an electrical two-prong harness, and is held with a single 10mm bolt. The second is a pair of solenoid thingies each with vacuum nipples, electrical connecter, and held to UIM with two bolts. The vacuum lines were so crispy! Can anyone help me determine the part name / part number?

First:
Attachment 605162

Second:
Attachment 605163

Also, according to Dale Clark and Robinette (Vacuum Hose Replacement) the rack's gotta come out to get to the 4 vac lines underneath. I've read multiple threads about the "phillips head" technique vs. the "entire rack" technique (removed from block). I don't have any of the phillips ratchet attachments in my tools...I think I'm going to go for the entire rack removal. In the picture below, can anyone confirm/deny the bolts to remove to get the rack out and access to the turbo side (right side) of the vacuum lines? I only see 3x 12mm bolts that look like they're going into the block. Is there anything missing? There are also a couple of fuel lines on the firewall side that look like they'll need some love.
Attachment 605164

Not sure about the rack question..
BUT!..PLEASE!..stuff some RAGS Into that INTAKE before you go any further!
You will not believe the "I dropped a NUT down there" threads that are being posted!

World of Hurt
 

Looking at those examples, you are in for a world of hurt if you dig deeper. Better assume you are going to replace all your solenoid "thingees" plus many of your sensors. Read about pulling all that stuff out and going parallel turbos and deleting the emmisions set up. All your engine control wiring may also be shot, so new harnessis likely required. Assume you have to spend $2000 and be prepared for more.


For example, the double duty solenoid thing you broke is $200 at Atkins. Best replace with new.

Thingees 4U
 

So because i need a new solenoid, i need a new engine harness? I'm not sure i understand that. And by "examples" do you mean the condition they're in?

thanks. this is helpful.

i was able to get a new waste gate solenoid setup from a buddy...do you have a link to a get write up on the parallel turbos?

i have a set with many of those sensors if youre looking btw.

better yet. throw all that crap out, get yourself a single T-kit, FPR, Fuel pump... 2k right there!
$$$$ Well spent

My car is in japan. It has to pass emissions testing every 2 years. I also haven't researched the export rules, but the R32s and Supras won't get approved for shipment back to the states with a single turbo mod.

Not likely you need a new engine harness. But it is exposed to a lot of heat so treat it as gently as possible while you're in there.
Have you downloaded the Factory Service Manual yet? Available in the FAQ sticky at the top of this page and essential IMO. Also, for those rack bolts one of these tools is effective for breaking them loose https://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-scr...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

New replacement solenoids are available but they're pretty pricey. With those silicone vacuum lines a tiny bit of soap is handy for re-install so you don't break a fragile nipple. I also agree with Styx, cover up the lower intake manifold while your working and before doing anything else. That's frightening to those of us who know what can happen. I use masking tape to tape mine shut.

Whack a Mole Solenoid Game
 

If those two solenoids are indicative of the state of your other solenoids, which is likely, you are just going to end up chasing one broken solenoid after another. Meanwhile the car will never run right and you will be forever guessing what the problem is, and fixing (which often means breaking and repearing) the wrong things in the process. Replacing a 25 year solenoid with a 25 year old solenoid isn't likely a happy solution.
If you must go the "old used" route, watch for persons selling complete scrap rats nests and harnesses (hopefully with solenoids). I see them for $50 to $100. Buy as many as you can. Look on Yahoo Japan.


Set up a jig for testing the solenoids before you put them in. I read on here that even "new old stock" have a high failure rate (sloshing around in parts bins perhaps?).


If you are in Japan you might be able to hook up with someone with a JDM code reader. The JDM cars do not have a check engine light. It is a good idea to run codes very early in your process. It will tell you which solenoids are not functioning already.


Keep your eye out for a aftermarket ECU , like an Apexi Power FC. If you start discarding and blocking off stuff your stock ECU will have a hissy fit.

Thanks for all the help from everyone. Got the FD buttoned up the afternoon with all new vacuum hoses from top to bottom. Also got a handful of solenoids and tested them. The best 7 went on the car and now she has a perfect 10-8-10 boost pattern.

I have another issue, now...electrical!? After doing a "high rpm" pull (>5000), the lights on the dash all light up simultaneously and then go out once the car is back at idle-ish. It's the battery light, add coolant red LED, "heat" light, oil pressure LED, etc. any ideas?

did some searching and found this: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-dash-1003045/

potential that my alternator is going bad? Will try to replace and see what happens.

^Yeah...you beat me to it. You can check and clean the connections but first guess is the alternator.

Thrash Not!
 

Not with the Dai Yoshihara stuff until you get the car sorted.

You could check belt condition/tension, but I don't think the FD rib belt has slippage issues like the FC does.

brand new belts. without referencing the service manual, what is the standard tension? I've always just used "1/4" turn allowable for accessory belts....

Disregard! DC5, thanks for the tip. RSM says "0.28-0.29 inches of deflection"; it's very possible I have more than that.