Performing a full service [Series 4 FC3S]
 

Hi all,


New to cars and also to rotaries. Have had an RX-7 sitting for a while and unsure what its service history has been, hasn't been on the road for a few years now but starts and runs great [apart from brakes being dead, but more on that later].


I think it's probably a wise idea for me to give the car a full service, replacing the fluids etc. and am just wondering where I would start? I also need to replace the brake master cylinder, and have the part for this already. From what I can gather, this involves me bleeding the brakes so I will already be replacing these fluids.


If I were to perform a full service, what else would it involve other than?
- Engine oils [20W50 seems to be the go to. For temperatures, I'd see a minimum of 50°F (10°C) and max of around 86°F (30°C), Australian weather lately!
- Spark plugs [NGK? Should I go by FC3S PRO? "Leading plugs are BUR7EQ, while trailings are BUR9EQ"]
- Brake fluids

Thanks all!

brake fluid
trans fluid
coolant & flush
clutch fluid
rear end lube
oil change
plugs
wires
fuel filter
drop and clean gas tank
replace fuel pump sock
check ALL vacuum lines

sure I missed something, but thats a good start

^What he said.

FWIW:
*I recommend the FL-22 coolant (usually labeled for Japanese/asian cars).
*Since you'll be completely flushing the brake master and system, I would recommend buying one of the Motive brake bleeding kits with the appropriate adaptor.
*Unless your car is heavily modified, stick with stock heat ranges and NGK. Just use a bit of anti-seize on the plug threads, and do them one at a time to avoid mixing things up.
*If you haven't already, get a copy of the Factory Service Manual. Free downloadable versions are available here and on the net.
*Clean all your grounds and maybe consider adding supplemental grounds to the car. Battery to engine, Engine to chassis, chassis to battery. Probably also one on the exhaust just downstream of the O2 sensor to chassis.

Thanks guys, great advice!
Will look into doing this all. Sounds like I have a bit to plan :)

Start with the scheduled maintenance services listed in Chapter 0 of the service manual. I recommend following the unique driving conditions schedule.

Some additional notes:
- The secondary injectors kick in around 3,800 rpm. If you drive like a grandma and never get past 3,800 rpm then the secondary injectors will clog up, then that one time you need to step on the gas pedal to pass a car the engine will blow due to an extreme lean condition. No, I am not kidding. Therefore, be sure to accelerate the engine up in the rpms on a regular basis. Note that this does not mean to redline the engine on a regular basis, which is a common misconception.
- Mix the coolant with distilled water, not tap water. Bleed the system as per the service manual. If you do not know the age of the hoses, then I recommend replacing them. The same goes for the drive belts and wiper blades.
- Synthetic transmission oil will typically help the manual transmission to shift better. If the shifter lever falls to one side, moves on its own, or is otherwise loose, then see this link: Mazdatrix - Shifter Bushings
- Whenever I buy a used RX-7, one of the first things I do is replace the two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal. This is because they crack over time, causing oil to drip on the heater hose which will eventually develop an intermittent pinhole leak that will drive you nuts.
- Check all of the rubber fuel lines, as most of them are cracked and scary at this age. Be sure to replace them with EFI-rated fuel line, not cheap carb-rated fuel line.
- If the stereo surround is cracked, consider replacing it with a Series 5 surround that is more rubbery and less prone to cracking. Note that this also requires changing the associated heater vents to Series 5.
- Pulsation Damper

Yes, 10W-40 or 20W-50. Most people like Castrol GTX, although any good brand will work fine. Normal consumption is about 1 L per 5000 km, although the consumption rate is higher for worn engines.

Mazdatrix - Spark Plugs