new 1st gen rotary rx7 owner and new to the racing scene.
Just bought a 82 Mazda rx7. I'm gonna be restoring and modding the rotary engine. I have a problem with the carburetor. It'll crank right up and idle for a little bit then die. was wondering if it would be cheaper to replace the factory carb with a performance carb or buy a rebuild kit and rebuild the factory. which one is cheap and easier. and if I replace the carb with a performance one what will fit. its the 12a rotary
|
You should address why it is starting and dying and not just assume that by changing the carb that things will be all warm and fuzzy.
This sounds fuel related and by that,the whole fuel system needs to be cleaned.Start at the tank(pump,screen,etc) and end at the carb.. |
It hasn't been ran or driven in over 5yrs. When you start it before my mechanic played with the carb you had to play with the choke or it would die and there was a bad burning gas smell. after he played with it you don't need to play with the choke as much bit if you don't keep your. foot on the gas it will die but no burning gas smell. the main problem I see is that there's no telling how many unattached, capped and missing vacum hoses. would replacing all those hoses remedy my problem with the idle? The whole car is stock.
|
Originally Posted by dahammer20
(Post 11737616)
It hasn't been ran or driven in over 5yrs. When you start it before my mechanic played with the carb you had to play with the choke or it would die and there was a bad burning gas smell. after he played with it you don't need to play with the choke as much bit if you don't keep your. foot on the gas it will die but no burning gas smell. the main problem I see is that there's no telling how many unattached, capped and missing vacum hoses. would replacing all those hoses remedy my problem with the idle? The whole car is stock.
First clean the whole fuel system. Myself?..I would not keep on driving it and complicate it more by shoving crud further down the fuel system. Clean 'er up ..and get some info on your Car in the Series Specific section so you can address the vacuum hoses or whatever may be going on at the engine. I'd be happy to help you but I am a S4 Engine guy and then again I modded the shit out of my engine,so much that I gotta get someone to tune it for me..lol. |
welcome to the board. :)
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11737660)
and that my friend is why,.
First clean the whole fuel system. |
I'm going to be replacing the carb for a little more hp longer down the line anyway. would it be good to replace it now and put a performance one on? And what will fit the factory manifold?
|
first off welcome to the Board, second clean that Fuel system,your gas tank should have a drain plug on it you can drain the fuel out from there then flush out the lines.if you still want to upgrade the Carb,I would go with a racing Beat Holley set up,they are already set up for a rotary engine and are easy to tune
|
Is there a cheap performance carb that will fit the stock manifold? I look led at that set up and its out of my price range.
|
Since you mentioned racing, I would not recommend buying an aftermarket carb until you read your racing rules to see what is allowed for each class. In most cases, aftermarket carbs will bump you up into a much higher class where you will get your butt kicked by people with $50,000 cars. The stock carb will keep you down in the lowest racing class where people with $3,000 cars will kick your butt because they are excellent drivers, but at least you have a fighting chance once you gain some skill.
Your best bet is to have a professional rebuild and tune your current carb. The cost will probably be about $200-300. This skill takes a lot of experience to master, so you can't do it very well by yourself. If you don't have the money, then get a part-time job to pay for it, or work overtime. On several occasions I have worked overtime to pay for professional automotive work that required skills or expensive tools that I lack.
Originally Posted by dahammer20
(Post 11737973)
would it be good to replace it now and put a performance one on?
Originally Posted by dahammer20
(Post 11737973)
And what will fit the factory manifold?
http://www.racingbeat.com/manuals/intakeguide.pdf |
Drop tank. Clean tank and fuel pickup. Put a new filter sock on fuel pickup. Replace lines to and from tank.
Read all you can about nikki rebuilding and modifying. Read all you can about the rats nest, its removal, and what needs to be altered/capped for proper timing advance and crankcase ventilation in its absence. By now it should be apparent that the Nikki carb is the best intake for a stock 12a. Buy a rebuild kit for your Nikki. Rebuild it. Drive the car and delight in the work you did. Buy another Nikki and modify it as far as your skills will allow. This is the path to 12a happiness. |
Originally Posted by dahammer20
(Post 11737973)
I'm going to be replacing the carb for a little more hp longer down the line anyway. would it be good to replace it now and put a performance one on? And what will fit the factory manifold?
if you want a performance carburetor, that's fine. i won't try to talk you out of it, but if we can agree that even a "performance" carbie will require some time and money beyond purchase, then you can see why it makes sense to simply get the car running well with what you have first. a rebuild kit costs, maybe $60 and even if you have to pay someone else to do the rebuild and initial setup it will be far less than adding the cost of a whole new setup to the mix and have to do all of that (minus the rebuilding) anyway. work with what you have. get a feel for the car/engine, then if you want to move on to aftermarket stuff, then have at it. also, as Cookboy alluded, a well-built Nikki can rival aftermarket carbies - especially on stock ports. just FYI ...
Originally Posted by dahammer20
(Post 11737982)
Is there a cheap performance carb that will fit the stock manifold? I look led at that set up and its out of my price range.
Originally Posted by erick31876
(Post 11737976)
... they are already set up for a rotary engine and are easy to tune
let's not get into the fact that someone will always point out that you can buy one used ... or ... get them cheaper from Summit or Jegs and oh yeah, the RB mods are not THAT hard, and you can have great Holley system for a fraction of RB's price. i now people have been successful at doing just that, but they are the exception, not the rule. i'm not picking on you. however, just try to be mindful of your environment (New Members) and phrasing that may be misleading. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:49 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands