MY Rx7 Stalling/ Idle issue...
 

i cracked my windshield so i havent been driving and i am looking to change the battery hoping its just a weak battery ( it did die before) or something of that sorta... but this is pretty much what happens, If i start the car and do not touch the gas, the car stalls.... however if i start the car... give it a little gas it will idle like a champ... once warm this problem is non existent... having trouble up loading a video im going to try and get one today!

So... What year is your car? What engine does it have?
The problem you're describing could be simple if it works on carbs instead of injection. But could be more serious if it's a fuel injection one...

Its an 87 turbo 2, everything is stock...so if its fuel inj. Problem then what are you thinking??

If I give it gas, it doesn't happen ...when warm doesn't happen...like I said before it s a champ when warm....

Throttle positioning sensor (tps) may be out of adjustment? Gotta adjust mine soon.

So by re adjusting to should stop this stalling issue?

rotary motors have a stock cold start set-up that should pop the rpms up over average till it starts producing heat look into a new cold start adapter

the person i bought it from told me the cold start had been removed....i still see the contain when i pop the hood....? so maybe its still there? but alright ill look into one of those anyway

There's confusion because there is the sub zero tank and the cold start thermowax. The sub zero should have been removed. Mazda issued a TSB.

The cold start thermowax is on the throttle body and bumps a cam which keeps the primary throttle plates open a bit when the car is cold.

Based on the video, I'd say you are looking at:

-missing or disconnected BAC valve
-no cold start thermowax
-missing/disconnect ASV

Can you post some pictures of your throttle body and upper intake manifold?

The cold start system. I was going to talk about that when I read your last posts. Do what Aaron Cake said.

Srry for taking so long...yeah ill get some pictures most likely tomorrow morning...or today lol (in other words)

Please let me know if these pics are good enough...or if I need more...also ppl tell me the cold start system is garbage anyway so if it Is something to do with the system, can't I just remove it to stop that problem? Also in the picture where the distributor or cam shaft cap is...shouldn't I have ann oil metering pump? Would that hurt the car if I don't have it?

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I would like some clarification on how to adjust my ignition timing. The Haynes book makes no sense whatsoever. I will state what it states in a moment. I am also seeking input as to what timing light to purchase. I have never used one and if anyone out there can recommend a brand or model that is easy to use and is powered by the car itself (Haynes recommendation)????

Now here is what I do not understand, the procedure in the manual for checking the ignition timing is written like so:

Ignition timing - check and adjustment
initial:
1. warm the engine up to its normal operating temperature.
2. make sure all accessories are turned off.
3. hook up a tachometer in accordance with the manufacture's instructions.
4. check,and if necessary, adjust the idle speed.
5. hook up a timing belt light to the leading high tension lead.
6. with the engine idling, verify that the leading (yellow) mark on the pulley is aligned with the pointer ?!?!

How am I to align the marks when the engine is going at 750 RPM??:ponder:

In the manual there is a picture to show the marks, the engine is not moving in the picture.
If anyone can give me an elaboration on this or a different way to check the timing that would be rad!!

Shiz, that's where the timing like comes in. You're going to have to turn the central pulley CLOCKWISE ONLY until it's right on that yellow mark. If there is no mark, look for two notches in the pulley. The yellow mark is supposed to be the first one. Connect your timing light to the lead spark plug wire, and start the car. When you pull the trigger on the light, aim it at the little pointer down there by the CAS, and when you see that yellow light right on the mark of the pointer, you're in time. Do this to the trailing as well. Hook the wire to the trailing wire on the same rotor housing.

have advice for my lil problem now? -.-; Lol

Those aren't really the picture I asked for. None of them show the throttle body.

At first glance, your BAC is OK. There's too much contrast so I can't tell if it actually plugged in, but do check to make sure it's plugged in.

Your metering oil pump should be located on the exhaust side of the engine, on the front cover, tucked behind the airpump just under the lower rad hose.

The sub zero system can be removed. The cold start system should not be removed. You can safely ignore anyone who tells you to remove the cold start system and/or BAC.

It looks like your airpump has been removed, so you will need to upgrade your alternator pulley to a dual belt pulley so the water pump doesn't slip. Also without the air pump, if you have cats, they are now clogged.

Ok, so ill remove my cats....order that dual pulley with the belt s.....check for my pump andBAC to be connected and get u the pic of the throttle body....

srry its been taking so long... im moving so been stuck in the process.... ill try to get the pictures tomorrow morning !! Thanks

Would better upperthrottle body pics come out if I removed the intercooler??

Because there is a lot of clutter and im still so new to the rotary so thanks for the patience....

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If it doesn't have the oil metering pump you MUST premix the fuel with the proper premix oil or you will have problems!!! The oil lubes the internal seals so make sure you figure out if the car does or does not have the OMP! It's located to the left of the crank pulley when your looking at it from the front of the car. If there's a block off plate it's been removed and you must either premix the gas or put an OMP on the motor. If you take a good couple pictures of the front of the engine one of us could tell you if it's there or not.

how about a coolant temp sensor sometimes that can happen when they go out

I'd say by the vid it seems like what Arron said about the "choke" in the throttle body. The cold start thermowax issue will do just as in the vid. Once the car is warm it won't bump the cam on the throttle body to choke the motor.