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Lots of questions, Anyone up for the task?
I have a ton of questions, if you guys want me to post them all in this thread I can. I have looked through the FAQs but I still have a few common sense questions. All of them basically deal with the maintenance of the vehicle. Would anyone be willing to PM with me. Im pretty sure these are straight of greenhorn questions too.
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Just ask away that's what this section is for.
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-What type of oil should I use during the summer/winter in a stock 1990 TII 13BT if I live in Missouri where the temp can be as high as 95 and as low as subzero windchills?
-Is there any advantage of running premix if it is going to be a daily driver? -I hear a ton about overheating, is there much I can do or need to look for in order to prevent this? Premptive replacements the only way? -How long should I let the engine warm up and what flaw caused the engine to flood so easily? -I have read some people keep a lot of oil in the back of their vehicle, do 7's have bad oil leaking problems or is this just because of the increased amount of oil they use? if I have some others I will post them on this thread |
no need for premix, if you have the standard OMP connected.
warm up the engine to full operating temp before turning it off. they do burn a bit of oil due the omp. |
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10048395)
-What type of oil should I use during the summer/winter in a stock 1990 TII 13BT if I live in Missouri where the temp can be as high as 95 and as low as subzero windchills?
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10048395)
-Is there any advantage of running premix if it is going to be a daily driver?
The pros/cons of premixing is debated all the time, read up and make your own decisions.
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10048395)
-I hear a ton about overheating, is there much I can do or need to look for in order to prevent this? Premptive replacements the only way?
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10048395)
-How long should I let the engine warm up and what flaw caused the engine to flood so easily?
- Turning the car off before its fully warmed - Leaking injectors - Low compression Deflooding is pretty easy, either pull the EGI fuse or disconnect the CAS (crank angle sensor) and turn the car over a bit. If that doesn't do it then remove the spark plugs in combination with one of the above. And if that doesn't work then you can push the car with something else until it starts.
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10048395)
-I have read some people keep a lot of oil in the back of their vehicle, do 7's have bad oil leaking problems or is this just because of the increased amount of oil they use?
1. Complete the seal of the apex creating higher compression. 2. Provide lubrication for apex seals on the housing surface 3. Cool the intake charge The more you get on the car the more oil it squirts in so your oil consumption is based on your driving style. Get in the habit of checking your oil when you fill up with gas and you will never have a problem. Its definitely a good idea to have 1 or 2 quarts in the trunk. It sure has saved me once or twice. |
wow thanks a ton, you guys are sick
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in a good way
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Originally Posted by farberio
(Post 10048646)
- I use 10w30 in the summer. But store it all winter long so I can't speak for that. Synthetics are fine as long as you stick to quality brands.
It certainly won't hurt, if you do decide to do it use only 4oz per TANKFUL if you still have the stock OMP. If you remove the OMP you MUST run premix and use 1oz per gallon. The pros/cons of premixing is debated all the time, read up and make your own decisions. Overheating kills rotaries because it will warp the aluminum rotor housings. If your car is stock you can keep up with basic maintenance items like fresh coolant, replacing the thermostat. It might be a good idea to install a more accurate aftermarket gauge as well. If you mod you may want to look into an upgraded radiator. Flooding can be caused by the following things - Turning the car off before its fully warmed - Leaking injectors - Low compression Deflooding is pretty easy, either pull the EGI fuse or disconnect the CAS (crank angle sensor) and turn the car over a bit. If that doesn't do it then remove the spark plugs in combination with one of the above. And if that doesn't work then you can push the car with something else until it starts. Rotorys burn oil as part of the intake and combustion process. Stock OMP squirts a little bit of oil into the rotor housing to do three distinct things. 1. Complete the seal of the apex creating higher compression. 2. Provide lubrication for apex seals on the housing surface 3. Cool the intake charge The more you get on the car the more oil it squirts in so your oil consumption is based on your driving style. Get in the habit of checking your oil when you fill up with gas and you will never have a problem. Its definitely a good idea to have 1 or 2 quarts in the trunk. It sure has saved me once or twice. |
I always use 20-50 in all my Rx7s. I work next to a rotary shop, they put 20-50 in any rotary that comes in. Of course I live in CA so I never see lower than like 30 degrees.
In one of my NAs it has bad oil control rings so I put straight 50 in. Car runs like a champ. |
ill definitely look for 20w50 then atleast for spring, summer, fall use. Thanks
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So this car has a bad apex seal atleast thats what it sounds like, but its 2 hours away and I dont have a trailer so Ill have to drive it back to my house. Is this definitely frowned upon? Im gunna let it sit until I get enough to rebuild the engine after I give it a compression test, since I am going to rebuild the engine soon is it really a bad thing that I am going to drive it 2 hours home if I don't push it at all?
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^^^ i would not recommend driving it on one rotor if any you will usually cause more damage to the motor by doing that and have much better chances of breaking down if you were to just rent a dolly and tow it to your house
TwEaK |
Kinda depends. If you are going to use all new internals then you can drive it since you aren't trying to reuse stuff. If you want to do as little damage as possible so you can hopefully reuse stuff than I would just tow it.
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im get rent a trailer, to be safe
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Let us know how it goes.
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Hi all, I am new here, was just asking that whether can a car with California plate from LA county and was just asking is it legal for the car to be running in like SF or other part of the city but still in California? when the car was bought so it brought can the car stay at other city or I have to register the car again? thanks
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Originally Posted by wuanjink
(Post 10062520)
Hi all, I am new here, was just asking that whether can a car with California plate from LA county and was just asking is it legal for the car to be running in like SF or other part of the city but still in California? when the car was bought so it brought can the car stay at other city or I have to register the car again? thanks
You have to register the car at the California DMV under your name. It doesnt matter where your're at after that. |
"What type of oil should I use during the summer/winter in a stock 1990 TII 13BT if I live in Missouri where the temp can be as high as 95 and as low as subzero windchills?" during the summer I recommend Castrol GTX conventional 20w50 that is what my builders recommend me. During winter not sure because i live in Miami Fl lol
"-Is there any advantage of running premix if it is going to be a daily driver?"No advantages for running premix for a daily driver more of an inconvenience... "-I hear a ton about overheating, is there much I can do or need to look for in order to prevent this? Premptive replacements the only way? " constantly check your oil and make sure your car has the proper level of coolant at all times. Preventative maintenance "-How long should I let the engine warm up and what flaw caused the engine to flood so easily?" I usually let my engine warm up all the way to operating temp. leaking injectors most likely.. "-I have read some people keep a lot of oil in the back of their vehicle, do 7's have bad oil leaking problems or is this just because of the increased amount of oil they use?" A rotary uses/burns 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles. My RX7 (91 non turbo 13B) usually lasts 1000 miles on a fresh oil change before i have to start checking it and adding little bits here and there...it also depends on your foot lol i would recommend keeping a quart of oil with you i always do. |
Originally Posted by codylew
(Post 10050359)
So this car has a bad apex seal atleast thats what it sounds like, but its 2 hours away and I dont have a trailer so Ill have to drive it back to my house. Is this definitely frowned upon? Im gunna let it sit until I get enough to rebuild the engine after I give it a compression test, since I am going to rebuild the engine soon is it really a bad thing that I am going to drive it 2 hours home if I don't push it at all?
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thanks Chris_V for replying my message. I appreciated it.
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I just drove my 84FB 6 miles on one Rotor to my shop to pull it out. I can tell you this is NOT somthing you or the car will put up with for more than a very short distance. The car had almost zero power. I also only drove it because I have no plans to rebuild this one. I have replaced it with a fresh Steet port.
How this helps, please keep us updated. Doc |
Well I got the car home, I towed it back, the battery is completely shot but I jumped it. Apparently it's missing something that causes it to die before the water temp is about 150, after that it idles on its own. Not so sure what that problem is. Any ideas?
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