Just a few ?s
 

88' FC N/A lowered suspension, no performance mods 97,000
So first question, to adjust the rear camber i need to buy rear camber arms...do i need to purchase 2 or is just this one needed?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-87...item588c9fa168

And second question, sometimes if my car spins out the engine shuts down...is there a loose wire or something or does it have a fail safe of some sort? it doesnt do it while sliding but if the car does a complete 180 the engine will die. It starts right back up fine.

Also, how much more do convertibles weigh over coupes? My friend just got a convertible and i wanna know the weight difference.

I want to also purchase the front camber plates...I need my front camber/caster adjusted(alignment machine says its pretty off) can i just buy the plates? I saw these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-F...item255ec9ba5d

Thanks very much for your time guys!

The first thing you link to is an adjustable rear link. 1 per car. I'd avoid ebay, and buy from a reputable source like this: http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm. Scroll to the bottom and you'll see some adjustable links.

For the stalling thing, the AFM door could be forced closed I guess, which would cut fuel. Or a dirty fuel sock in the tank / rusted out baffles could cut fuel as well.

See the standard specifications sticky for weights. It depends on year/model/trim level, but generally 2-300 lbs. more.

Not sure about the front camber plates. They would probably work, but again Chinese ebay parts aren't my favorite.

Those front camber plates will only allow you to adjust your camber. If you want to adjust your caster as well, you'll have to get camber/caster plates. Something similar to these:

http://www.tougefactory.com/tfdave/st_camcas.jpg

180 spin out/engine shut down
 

88 SE 97,000 Lowered, no other real mods

Everytime my car does a 180 it cuts off. I asked rotaryrocket88 and he says it may either be my AFM door closing or my fuel sock is old. Is there any other thing i may be able to check? It only happens when the car actually flips around. When im sliding its fine but if the car rotates all the way around it all goes dead. It starts right up again fine and all but im sure that it should be happening. Thanks for the help guy(and gals)!

Fuel sock...
 

So...AFM door being forced closed, how do i check that? How do i go about checking the dirty fuel sock...is it something i can just replace? same with the baffles being rusted...the something i can take out and finish or repurchase?

Nin je I wouldn't expect anymore help from anyone here .. Rotary Rocket has helped hundreds no I think it is safe to say thousands of forum members .. If your not going to follow up on his suggestions why would you expect anyone else to try help you . Buy the way where I come from all the way around is 360* not 180. My suggestion to you is GO BUY A BOOK.. unsubscribed !!!

^^ Woa, burned...

Engines aren't designed to run backwards. You might not be cutting the clutch in at the right time to keep it from stalling. If you don't get this from other burly maneuvers there is no reason for it to happen when doing a 180. Anyway the easiest way to solve this problem is not to spin out. :)

if u don't push the clutch in during the 180 spinout before the car comes to a complete stop, it's going to stall out.

Funny, there is an echo in here... :lol:

If you dont have anything good to say then dont post...i dont need condescending talk. Also you must be from some lowly educated zone, cuz one half a rotation IS a 180, a full turn is a 360! Ive done nothing but take his advice...why do you think i just asked him for more detail. People like you are the reason i had a hard time on rx7club.

Spin out...
 

Ok ive been driving for quite some time guys...i know that not having the clutch in will cause the car to stall if you do spin out. And obviously its best to not spin out but...im not talking like i spin out every 5sec, just when it does happens. Also im pretty sure that you cant truly know your car if you dont push the limits. I dont get why people cant just give advice in this club...no bashing is needed whatsoever!

I was bashing? :confused:
Just trying to say that this is not a problem I would worry about dude...
And since this is the n00b section of the forum, don't be suprised if people assume you're a new driver.

...and I DO spin out every 5 seconds... :rofl:

Definitely man...
 

I had to make another new account after having one for years cause people just were so immature. I feel that if your not spinning out then your just not goin hard enough, if you've never had lots of spin outs or even crashes are you really sure that your a fast driver? Thanks man! Was just waiting for some idiot to get back on and be even more rude:icon_tup:

If you want to TEST if the AFM is causing the pump to shut off, jumper the yellow test plug on the passenger strut tower. This will run the fuel pump any time the ignition is on. You are basically overriding the safety feature that shuts down the fuel pump when the engine isn't running, like in the event of a crash. Use this info at your own risk.

As a side note, I agree it is good to know your car's limits. However, I don't know of any F1 drivers that constantly spin and crash. They wouldn't last long.

Let's get this thread back on track.

NinJeVarx7, myself and others can only point you in the right direction. It's up to you to check/test things on the car to see if you can come up with the solution.

Thanks...
 

Ok ill definitely look into that, thanks. Ill look around in my manual for exactly what you mean. Yea i never really find myself spinning out when i go on drives or on the mountain, mostly when im just messing around doin donuts or drifting around.

Definitely...
 

Yes most definitely. Sorry bout that, didn't even mean to come off as doubting you cuz im always talkin bout how much help i get from rotaryrocket88. Im goin to test that afm door with that jumper wire. what are some of the risks i can be aware of btw?

In the event of a crash, the fuel pump will keep running because the test plug is jumpered. If the fuel system is damaged, it will continuously leak fuel and possibly ignite. If this works, I'd suggest installing a switch so you limit the time you are bypassing the OEM safety feature.

Sorry RotaryRocket88, I'll leave the lounge type topics alone while in the technical section.

^ What are you apologizing for? :) Jumping the fuel pump test connector is sound advice for troubleshooting the AFM fuel cut switch.

As pointed out, jumping that connector means the fuel pump will always run when the key is ON. So, if you think you might be crashing into any walls when you spin out, it might be best if you only do it as a temporary testing measure.