Introduction and New motor break in
 

Lets try this again.
Trip Goolsby here.
I'm a somewhat accomplished race car pilot, armchair/theoretical mechanic. My prior race cars have been-in sequence- mustang gt 5.0(1986version for you youngsters), 1972 911 rsr clone, 97 993 RSR Peterson/White/Alex Job, IMSA,USRRC,World Challenge; GT3 Cup GrandAm Cup. Kinda brought into the fd3 family by Cam Worth(who I had raced against in my rsr in his championship year in USRRC) when I asked him to rehab a 94 fd that had been sitting in a garage of mine for about 10 years a few years back.
Sickness being what it is, I began to want to have the fd more fully torture cup cars and other fully sorted racing vehicles. Partially because of instructing for PCA, NASA, Chinn on occasion, BMWCCA and partially because was I unsatisfied with the marginal increase in power provided by the "rehabilitation" efforts. This led me to consider a 20b upgrade for my anemic Japanese mount, but settled on a Carlos Lopez(CLR) special with light flywheel, triple carbon 5.5" tilton clutch, carbonetics 1.5 diff.,9.5x18+45front 10x18+38 rear RPF01(slick fitment pending). Suspension is per Cam's rehab efforts with the pro track comps but I requested the softer spring pairing b/c I was thinking of only minimal track work with it.....ecu duties and data logging will be covered EMS's new systems(RoTech ecu and Synergy EDL7 race dash with peripheral data logging for drivetrain and suspension).whoa is provided by Alcon 14in. fronts, rears remain stock for the moment.
My current question(being only the armchair mechanic with no real practical rotary experience and having mostly drag racing experts provide the build) is......
How much, if any break-in do I require on the new motor prior to dyno tuning and prior to wreaking havoc on my porschephile companions? Any additional suggestions will also be entertained....:nod:
Many thanks in advance for your collective insight.

welcome to the board. :)

the Cliff's Notes of the process:

- no synthetic oil until break-in is complete (also probably a good idea to use a "heavier" oil)
- run the engine, do the leak checks, check pressure
- heat cycle a few times and then change the oil
- run the first 500 miles without boost and without exceeding 4000 RPM
- change oil at 500 miles
- start increasing loads with light boost at 1000 RPM per 100 miles
- change oil at 1000 miles


a few things to keep in mind:
- if you didn't replace bearings, break-in can be modified for less time and mileage
- there is a "dyno break-in procedure" (but i'm not really familiar with it) if you can't find it here, then i'm sure one of the bigger, professional outfits (RB, Mazdatrix, etc.) could give you guidance.

https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...-break-998641/

What he said but if you go to the trouble of having components like E-shafts isotropically finished then there is far less need for the above.

Notes taken and thank you.
Carlos mentioned something about some fancy coating on the engine parts to facilitate break in. I'm not exactly sure what he said it was, but he prepped it as a full race motor with the knowledge it would see race level activity...
I didn't mention the turbo in my initial post: Precision billet.ball bearing 6768 using 4 2200cc/hr injectors set up for E85.
It is mildly frustrating to delay the gratitude of the right foot for that length of time but better safe than......
Thanks again

my pleasure. do you recall if it was molybdenum?

I would ask Carlos what he recommends. Below is a link to the standard Mazda Motorsports break-in recommendation.
http://www.mazdaspeeddevelopment.com...g/techtips.pdf

Speaking of which, you would probably want to register with Mazda Motorsports Development, which requires participation in at least 2 events per year (SCCA autocross counts as an event). If you plan on being competitive, then you would also want to register for the contingency awards if you don't mind the required decals.
MAZDASPEED MOTORSPORTS DEVELOPMENT - Home Page

Is Wei-Shen Chin still holding his track events?

Email is off to Carlos.... Unsure of when I'll receive a response....the guy is always caught up with something.
Adam, Thanks for the metallurgy lesson... Isotropic finishing huh. I doubt he pursued this but damn that is trick! I don't even know where that would be done here (too late I suspect in my case, unless CLR did it).
No wonder you guys (Australians that is) are always out on the bleeding edge of rotary upgrades and power improvements with the rotaries.
Aviator, great stuff! I will certainly be checking that out as I finish sorting the car. Thanks

Aviator,
just noted the Chin question... Yes they are mostly Sebring, Road Atlanta and Barber I think. Last I instructed with them was either Barber or Sebring about a year ago. The latter is a real haul for me though...

Dang, I need to get off my rear and drive out to another Chin event sometime. Here is a pic from a Chin event at Sebring 13 years ago. We were the motley crew for the ugly green 10AE, and I think that's Jim Johnson's white TII in the background.

I did like recommended by dialobical1 and my new engine is like a charm :) I used 20w50 oil

Many thanks to all!

I am arranging tuner and dyno break-in and hope to have a functional vehicle within the month!
Cup cars beware :nod: