Fresh rebuild won't start
Question for all of you smarter guys than me ( which is everyone). I recently rebuilt my engine, timed according to everyone's posts, got it to fire for about 30 sec last night, couldn't get it started again after. Any ideas?
I tried moving the timing a tooth back and forward which seemed to make it worse (sounding). I've seen were some say rotaries are notorious for having low compression after a fresh rebuild until everything seats. Let me know your thoughts :dunno: |
You could place oil in the housings via the spark plug holes (a tablespoon should do) to help build compression. And did the engine die after 30 seconds or did you turn the engine off? If you turned it off then you should try letting the engine run longer.
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 12053630)
You could place oil in the housings via the spark plug holes (a tablespoon should do) to help build compression. And did the engine die after 30 seconds or did you turn the engine off? If you turned it off then you should try letting the engine run longer.
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Check compression. if its not terrible, pull start it.
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before changing your timing and risk detonation or something serious I would just check the simply stuff first (triple check ground connections, main fuses, main vacuum lines, fuel pressure and fuel cleanliness, spark, compression, deflood) You can check all that in less than an hour without tearing off UIM and stuff. All this will eliminate most your questioning.
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Yeah wait, i didnt notice you said youre moving teeth. you need to set your base timing first. Turn it over and check with a timing light and get ur marks close.
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12053672)
Yeah wait, i didnt notice you said youre moving teeth. you need to set your base timing first. Turn it over and check with a timing light and get ur marks close.
I'll pull my plugs tonight and check them, perhaps they are dirty or something. |
You should just start over.
Do this: Startup Ensure the throttle reads smoothly from 0-100% in its full range of movement. Power up the fuel pumps and check entire fuel system for leaks before attempting to start the engine. Once verified that all sensors are correctly operating and fuel system is functional, attempt to start the engine. If engine does not start check: 1. Ignition Timing 2. Correct Fuel Pressure 3. Spark Plugs are not fouled or wet 4. Engine Compression 5. Ignition is wired in correct firing order 6. Ignition is firing on intake stroke not exhaust stroke Once engine is running, ensure fuel pressure remains correct under all conditions and that battery is charging. |
Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12053706)
You should just start over.
Do this: Startup Ensure the throttle reads smoothly from 0-100% in its full range of movement. Power up the fuel pumps and check entire fuel system for leaks before attempting to start the engine. Once verified that all sensors are correctly operating and fuel system is functional, attempt to start the engine. If engine does not start check: 1. Ignition Timing 2. Correct Fuel Pressure 3. Spark Plugs are not fouled or wet 4. Engine Compression 5. Ignition is wired in correct firing order 6. Ignition is firing on intake stroke not exhaust stroke Once engine is running, ensure fuel pressure remains correct under all conditions and that battery is charging. |
So, I think after over 6 months of being down for the rebuild the gasoline in my tank went bad. I checked timing, fuel pressure, plugs, ignition wiring. I ran out of time last night to do my compression test though.
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Originally Posted by Coinshark
(Post 12054999)
So, I think after over 6 months of being doing for the rebuild the gasoline in my tank went bad.
I checked timing, fuel pressure, plugs, ignition wiring. I ran out of time last night to do my compression test though. |
Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12055001)
Its possible but i doubt it.
Yeah you need to check compression. Even a ghetto check will work. Compression tester 20 bucks at oreilly |
Check your fuel pressure yet? Pull injectors and look at them.
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Actually, after reading through this again, your engine may be flooded. Have you pulled your plugs and inspected them? Wet?
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
(Post 12055019)
Actually, after reading through this again, your engine may be flooded. Have you pulled your plugs and inspected them? Wet?
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I have A second gen and when mine floods i pull the fuel pump fuse and the injection fuse crank it for a little then plug them back it and it should start.
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Originally Posted by warpig
(Post 12055038)
I have A second gen and when mine floods i pull the fuel pump fuse and the injection fuse crank it for a little then plug them back it and it should start.
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Fresh rebuilds can be a biatch to get running, deflood it again, pull the plugs and put oil in the chambers, hook up a battery charger with a boost start option and try it, if that doesn't do it, pull start it
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Stop farting around with timing. It has little effect on startup as long as the CAS is on the right tooth.
By this time the engine is very flooded. Push start it with another vehicle. Don't waste further time and frustration. Get it up to about 20 MPH then carefully let the clutch out in 1st gear. As long as the engine is capable of running (ie. fuel, spark), it will run. Hold the RPMs up around 2500 to burn off all the crap. |
Just for my own learning sake, is the point of pull starting it all for the purposes of "forcing" rotational motion because the starter is too weak to turn a flooded rotary?
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Its not that the starter is to weak, its that the starter can only spin up to so many RPMs, and you have alot of things going against you
One being its a fresh rebuild, compression is going to be pathetically low until you get it running and give the seal time to seat Two being its flooded, when an engine is flooded, it lowers the compression even more, so now you have even LOWER compression The thing with pull/push starting it is when you release the clutch, the movement of the car will spin the engine over faster than the starter ever can, which the faster a engine spins, the more compression it will build (to a point) Before you push/pull start it, do as i said and put some oil in the plug holes, it will help bring the compression up to fire it |
Thanks for clearing that up. Makes sense.
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
(Post 12055806)
Stop farting around with timing. It has little effect on startup as long as the CAS is on the right tooth.
By this time the engine is very flooded. Push start it with another vehicle. Don't waste further time and frustration. Get it up to about 20 MPH then carefully let the clutch out in 1st gear. As long as the engine is capable of running (ie. fuel, spark), it will run. Hold the RPMs up around 2500 to burn off all the crap. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone! Sorry for being a rotary nub :lol: |
The MOP should not be deleted, but hooked up or if not then you risk damage to the ECU
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Originally Posted by satch
(Post 12056243)
The MOP should not be deleted, but hooked up or if not then you risk damage to the ECU
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