Originally Posted by Sgtblue (Post 11945683)

:rolleyes: Seems like a stroll through 2nd Gen Stickyland and you can figure it out yourself Mr. "not an idiot".

Originally Posted by 86glxNA (Post 11945687)

Excuse me im not so good with the forum yet:)

Originally Posted by Evil Aviator (Post 11946080)

Drifting? OK...

Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.

Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.

Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.

What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).


On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.

Originally Posted by Evil Aviator (Post 11946080)

Drifting? OK...

Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.

Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.

Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.

What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).


On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.

Originally Posted by Donald Hampton (Post 11965527)

well delete the emissions crap if it still has all of that on it. Coilovers. I removed the Sway bars. youll want to upgrade radiator to aluminum. Dont be like all the other fools and get 18' rims with massive camber, I have the mesh BBS vert rims, and not only being light theyre small too. rotary engines have no torque whatsoever so spinning big ass rims compared to tiny ones is a HUGE difference IMO. Plus tires are drastically cheaper too:lol: eliminate the rear steer bushings, poly mount everything, remove any weight that the car doesnt need. If this is your first 7 your going to be learning fast that they take great skill and patience to drift with stock components and it being a 50/50 weight car.

Originally Posted by 86glxNA (Post 11965531)

Not sure what other emissions to delete. Charcoal canister is gone and the line to vent the gas tank is routed out of my engine bay, deleted omp so running premix gained an idle issue after doing that job, air pump deleted, ps delted, ac deleted. Ive put in the pinion snubber. And i definately need to eliminate rear steer, ive had tires with low tread on the back the whole time ive owned this car and i recently put brand new hankooks on and now my ass feels all sloppy so idk what that about. I have some 15" alloy wheels but i do have to correct you, rotaries make plenty of torque, its just not in the low end as piston engines usually are. And i really dont feel theyre hard to drift? I was able to drift it pretty well for even for having a very shitty lsd. Im running JIC FLT A2. Why remove the sway bars? Ive installed cusco strut braces and man they make a world of difference!

Originally Posted by Donald Hampton (Post 11969298)

Strut bars are good to have!! sway bars at least for me and all the other FC drifters in Vegas dont run them, if you are mid drift and transfer the sway bars will more or less pre-load the suspension and kinda rocket your car out of the turn and more spin outs will happen. JTP said somewhere in his drift build thread to get rid of them that thread is right here if you want to take a look at it. https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226...thread-877465/ Do you know if you have the s4 or s5 LSD? also if you can find a 4:30 diff that will help on the low end torque too. And if you think 7's are easy to drift go drift a 240! you will be amazed on how easy they are to get sideways, then again 7's arent hard to drift, but hard to drift well and look good doing it.:lol:

Originally Posted by Donald Hampton (Post 11969300)

Oh and as far as your idle issue change fuel filter clean your injectors and see how your TPS is doing with a multimeter. (easy to adjust)

Originally Posted by Akagis_white_comet (Post 11948650)

Regardless of the car's intended usage, I always recommend the same three mods for all new owners.
Alternator: FD or Taurus one
Battery: AGM such as Deka Intimidator
Cables: Replacing the 25+ year old stock ones is a very wise idea. I recommend soldering your own using 4awg welding cable. Use Marine Battery Terminals too.

Originally Posted by Donald Hampton (Post 11969659)

Oh and this website shows and describes how to adjust an s4 tps:icon_tup: Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More

Originally Posted by Donald Hampton (Post 11969659)

Oh and this website shows and describes how to adjust an s4 tps:icon_tup: Lmk if you need help or get confused. RX-7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Testing / Adjustment : 13B Etc - Mazda RX-7 Parts And More

Originally Posted by 86glxNA (Post 11970159)

My tps was waaaay off and adjusting it fixed my idle and fixed a flat spot in my powerband m!:D thanks a lot!

Originally Posted by Evil Aviator (Post 11946080)

Drifting? OK...

Suspension - Get the cheapest Chinese/Korean set of coilovers that you can find. Be sure not to use anything that is used by professional racers because we all know that they know nothing. Used suspension is the best because it is always in such great shape, and its not like anything needs to match or anything like that. It would be a good idea to ask in the forums which suspension is best so that the 12-year-olds can help you out. If anybody says that the Chinese/Korean stuff is junk, call them a "hater" and rag on them for taking the time to help you.

Wheels - Get big shiny wheels that require uber-expensive low-profile tires. It doesn't matter that they are almost surely heavier than the stock wheels, the point is to go big and shiny. Only noobs use stock-looking wheels.

Power - Rather than simply selling your NA car and buying a good Turbo II car for $3,500 or so, it is much better to spend 2 years and $6,000+ converting your NA to turbo. If anybody asks why you are "wasting" your time and money, tell them that "I want to say that I did all the work myself". That way you can be just like Michael Schumacher, Dario Franchitti, Jeff Gordon, Nigel Mansell, and all the other drivers who did all the work on their cars... er, wait, they hired professionals to work on their cars, never mind. Anyway, be sure to get an aftermarket blowoff valve that makes a cool "pshhhht" noise.

What's weak about the car - The driver is unskilled and the owner is broke. This is directed at 99% of the people on this forum, not just you. It is important to realize this situation so that you can plan accordingly, and above all you need to make sure that you are not delusional in this respect. As for car parts, the OEM radiator's plastic tanks are junk and tend to crack so an all-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Griffin, etc.) is a common replacement item, the driveshaft u-joint tends to lock-up after about 150K miles, and the NA transmission is not really up to the task of supporting an engine much over 200bhp. If you intend to keep the interior in nice shape, replace the brittle 86-88 stereo surround and the heater vents above it with 89-92 parts that are more durable. The two O-rings under the oil filter pedestal tend to crack and cause problems when oil seeps on the heater hose below it, and the pulsation damper should be replaced periodically so that it does not crack and leak fuel on the hot engine. It is not a good idea to completely remove the pulsation damper unless you install an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator with a built-in pulsation damper function (Aeromotive or SX).


On internet forums, other members do not know what you consider "basic stuff" or what you have already done, therefore redundancy should be expected, especially if you ask generalized open questions.