FC Auto to manual swap - wiring ID
 

Hi, finishing up an auto/manual swap and I think I've figured out the reverse light wiring as well as the bypass of the inhibitor switch (although if anyone has info on the function of the inhibitor switch on things like fuel pump power, that would be nice) and I am wondering what all the extra wires coming out of the transmission are for. There are two blue wires and I believe a green wire that I don't know the function of. I believe the 2 red ones are from the reverse switch.

Thanks for any help.
Steve

Year of the car and is it USDM or JDM.

Sorry, it's an '86 USDM car

Ok, now I have a question on the inhibitor switch. This is an '86 NA, auto shell that got a S4 turbo engine and 5sp. There are 2 wires of interest in this 4 pin connector, a heavy gauge B/W wire and a B/R wire of the same gauge. I have read to jump the two together to bypass the switch entirely, but when I do that I still get no starting voltage to (what I think is) the starter solenoid wire (smaller gauge B/W wire on the Engine harness).

However the fuel pump does run when I have those wires jumped and turn the key to start, making me think that jumping those two wires is working. Why then would I not get 12V on cranking to the starter signal wire? I'm fairly sure I'm looking at the right wire, it checks out from what I can tell from the FSM.

I do however get +12V on cranking at the heavier gauge B/W wire in the inhibitor switch connector (the one I'm jumping to the B/R wire), should I just use that as starting signal? What then of the fuel pump/other affected electronics?

Thanks

The B/R wire should connect to the starter solenoid wire at connector FE-05. If it did then the voltage off of B/W is passed to B/R via the jumper which then passes it to B/W at FE-05.


Look at the plug near the trailing coil (plug is usually Blue in color) which has a thick B/G wire, a thinner B/G wire, a light Green/Yellow wire and a B/W wire (on an auto the wire could be B/R and not B/W). The B/W wire runs to the starter solenoid. On the back of this plug should be a U shaped jumper wire which jumps the thicker B/G wire to the B/W wire. I think this is perhaps your problem.

Great info, thank you. I will check that out tonight and let you know what I find.

Ok, what you said all checks out, but I guess my question is, where is the starter solenoid signal wire? I can't find 12v on cranking at any wire but the B/W from the inhibitor switch (as well as the one at FE-05).

I thought it was a thin gauge B/W wire coming off the engine harness, but that could also be the kick-down solenoid wire. The FSM labels the auto starting wire as
E-05: a single B/W (from inhibitor switch).

Do I need to jump the B/W and B/R at E-14 (inhibitor switch) and also run a wire from there to the starter? Or is there a separate starter wire on auto cars?

Thanks again for your help.

The wire in the Blue plug houses the wire that runs to the starter solenoid. A simple continuity test would tell you what you need to know.

You say that when the two inhibitor wires are jumpered, B/W to B/R, they have voltage on each w/key to start. The B/R wire at this jumpered plug should cause the B/R wire at FE-05 to have voltage as well because they are one in the same wire. Again, a simple continuity test will tell you what you need to know.

And by the way, there should be 4 wires at the plug which goes to the inhibitor and reverse lights (located at the transmission) and 2 of them are R/G, which makes me want to ask, "are you jumpering the correct two wires."

And if you are not sure which wire is which you should not jumper the wires for one of the B/R wires runs to the reverse lights and you don't want to pump amperaqe required to engage the starter to the lights for you could do damage to the circuit.

I ended up jumping the B/R and B/W wires at the inhibitor switch and running a wire from there to the solenoid, which works well. I was thinking there was a dedicated starter solenoid wire in the harness, but either auto's don't have one coming off the harness or mine isn't working for whatever reason. Either way I think I've found a suitable solution - thanks satch for your help.

very informative post !

Thanks !

[QUOTE=fc3steve;12051804] ended up jumping the B/R and B/W wires at the inhibitor switch and running a wire from there to the solenoid, which works well. I was thinking there was a dedicated starter solenoid wire in the harness, but either auto's don't have one coming off the harness or mine isn't working for whatever reason. Either way I think I've found a suitable solution - thanks satch for your help.
I know this is a dead thread but I figured I'd update with what I've found since it didn't seem like there was a definitive answer out there for anyone doing the swap. Currently doing my swap. The
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...119712520d.jpg
car is an 88gxl. Checking the manual it shows a 4 wire plug for the inhibitor switch and reverse lights. On the vehicle harness side the black/white and black/red wires are for the inhibitor switch. These need to be spliced together so it thinks it's in neutral/park and will start. The trans side of my harness had a second wire coming from one of the pins that went to the starter. I cut my trans side harness and soldered the two wires together then simply plugged it into the vehicle harness and connected the wire to with the factory plug to the starter. I'll update and confirm if it worked when I have everything together.

Did this work? I just did the same on my car and I was wondering before I complete the install.

It worked fine for me, i didnt hook up my reverse lights since the wiring on the trans was busted. Also without the clutch safety switch it can be started without pressing the clutch.

I also ended up unplugging the auto trans module in the passenger footwell. The car ran with it plugged in and without it but it was a paint to get it unplugged and i didnt feel like trying to plug it back in.