Dimmer switch, and air pump mounting thing...
 

Hello.

My car's (Mazda RX-7 FC 1987 coupe) dashboard lights aren't working (that thing that has the RPM counter and the speedometer). I've been searching in this forum, and I've found many topics talking about the "Light dimmer switch", but I don't know what that is, and where it is...
I've found a topic entitled «Dash Lights Died - did research - found issue - pics included », but the pictures there aren't available anymore :(

Can someone describe to me where and what that dimmer switch is? If you have pictures, that would be great!

Also, I was trying to take out the Air pump from the engine so I could reach the radiator lower hose, but when I un-screwed both bolts, I got this:

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...zdaRX-7251.jpg

Do you see that metal piece where the bolt screws? I think it's preventing me from unmounting the air pump, because even without the bolts, I can't take the air pump out!
Can someone explain me how I remove that?

Everything in that picture looks normal to me.

There is an upper air pump bolt with the split metal sleeve, and a lower bolt on the adjuster.

The light dimmer switch is part of the headlight switch. It's all one assembly. The little knob you turn on that switch to dim the dash lights.

Check the meter fuse before you decide the switch is bad.

Please, disregard the air pump thing... While this post was being "approved" I noticed that there was something else getting the air pump stuck in it's place and it wasn't visible in this picture.


Thanks Aaron, I'll check those. So that means that if I unmount the switch that I rotate by hand to turn the lights on, the dimmer switch will come behind it?

Section 15 of the FSM (rotaryheads.com or foxed.ca), includes very useful trouble shooting on all of the instrument cluster switches. The left cluster switch cannot be removed from the instrument panel surrounding unless you first remove the knobs. The manual is not clear about how to release the knob and shaft for the 'panel light control'. However, with the pinouts for the connectors, you can check it first (well, second...after checking the fuse).

Oh, yes...about the slightly confusing terminology, the left side cluster switch also include the 'dimmer switch' that toggles the headlights from high beam to low beam. And, the headlight control circuit includes the 'dimmer relay' which directs power to the low or high beam terminals of the headlights as directed by the'dimmer switch'. Neither of these are related to the 'panel light control' which brightens or dims the instrument panel light (except that the 'panel light control' and the 'dimmer switch' are both located in the left side cluster switch assembly.

Well, I actually have that manual and I didn't notice that it had that! Thanks for the tip!
Too bad it doesn't explain how to remove these knobs?

http://i1095.photobucket.com/albums/...4/P3250054.jpg

Do I just need to pull them, or will I break something if I do it that way? Looking at the smaller part of the knob, it seems it's already broken... Or is it just me?

If the headlight switch worked properly it would power the Red/Green wire at the headlight harness when the headlight switch knob is turned to the first position. Make sure the 15 amp Illumination fuse is good. If the tail lights work then the fuse aspect is okay. Chances are either the headlight switch and or harness is damaged. If the switch is damaged it is recommended to replace the harness as well as the harness is likely the cause.

Yep. The tail lights work just fine.
I'll have to check the other things tomorrow, as it is already night here in Portugal.

Anyone able to tell me how do I take the knob off?

slip a flat object(screwdriver) under the big knob and pry it gently.It should pop both knobs off the light switch.

Thank you, I'll try it that way!

Problem solved!
What happened is that I didn't realized that the smaller knob is actually the dimmer knob and it was set on the minimum... That's why I didn't notice that the dash lights were on because they were so low. Also, as you can see in the picture above, the knob was already broken (by some of the previous owners or mechanics, probably) and so there isn't that picture on the knob ilustrating it's funcionality. I only realized that after reading what Aaron Cake wrote and also by reading the factory service manual...

Everything is fine now!
Thank you to all of you who helped me!
Cheers!