Cranks but won't start. No injector pulse maybe?
 

86 fc3s n/a 52k miles pure stock stored since 2009. I've removed, cleaned, and replaced the tank, new fuel pump, filter, slow hand cranked with oil then new plugs. It has spark at the plug wires and fuel at the top fuel rail. Cold compression is about 60 psi in both rotors. I've checked several electrical things per Haynes, all ok. Pulled the plugs after each cranking and they are dry. It does pop on ether. Why won't the injectors squirt? Or maybe its another problem. Thanks.

check the EGI fuse in the engine bay to make sure it is ok.

There is an EGI COMP and an EGI INJ fuse. Both are OK. (Which one were you referring to? I've seen that before about stopping the fuel pump.)

Jump your fuel pump at the yellow connector near the RH shock tower. see if it kicks on.

It does, I have fuel at the top fuel rail during cranking, just none squirting from the injectors.

Your injectors might be clogged.

All four of them? The plugs are totally dry when pulled after cranking.

The primary injectors are used to start and idle the car and not the secondaries so at least there's the possibility that the primaries are clogged.

Oh, OK. Before I take the top off the motor to clean the primaries, is there a way to see if electrical pulse occurs in the leads to the injectors? I'm trying to do easy stuff first. Thanks again.

You could test resistance across the injector terminals and verify you're seeing somewhere in the neighborhood of 10-14ohms, then you could use an LED with rather a larger current limiting resistor to visually see the pulse.

You could check at the ECU. The pins for the two primary injectors are 3E (Light Green wire) and 3C (Light Green/Black). Place one end of a LED light to one of the pins and the other LED lead to pin 3I and w/key to start the light should flicker. Do the same thing for the other injector pin.

Sometimes the AFM can interfere w/things and you might want to try unplugging it and jumper the fuel check connector and see if the car starts (if it does start do not run the car too long because it will be supplied w/way too much fuel).

Excellent answers, thank you very much. Do you think an analog multimeter needle bounce might reliably replace the LED test light? And, er, where is the ECU? (I'm old AND dumb.)

The computer for the car is located underneath the passenger floorboard carpet. A meter will not react quickly enough as the signal from the ECU is too quick and short in duration.

Thanks again, must do family business for 3 weeks. Will follow your suggestions upon my return.

If you have a test light, you can back probe one of the primary injector driver wires with the test light connected to the positive terminal of your battery. You are just watching the PCM pulsing the ground to the injector, so obviously your test light will need to be flashing whilst cranking, that will tell you a lot. The easiest place to do this is at the engine computer itself, under the passenger side carpet, close to the firewall, you'll have to remove the metal cover over the computer to gain access to the connectors. I wish I had a pinout diagram on this computer to post up for you, but I imagine someone has one posted on this forum somewhere.