Bringing the 181 hp FC3S to 200 hp
 

Hi all !

That's my first post on that forum so please be gentle :))))

What light mods can I put on the car to increase the power to, say, 200whp (at least for the beginning) ? It will mostly have to do with airflow right? And also if I put an aftermarket cone air filter and I delete the stock air filter box (I've heard its pretty restrictive) do I need to upgrade the downpipe and the muffler ? And If I do all these will I get a boost pressure high enough to cause boost creep, requiring me to port the wastegate ? If so how much should I enlarge the passage ? Will I still pass emissions after this ?


Also can you list me all the fluids/oils I need to change when i get the car and what is their location (apart from engine oil, coolant, diff oil.)

Any help will be appreciated, thanks in advance ! :)

Welcome to the board. :)

Let me start by saying that I edited your post from it's original form for two reasons. First, I cut it down so that your question is prominently featured whenever someone opens your thread. Secondly, this gives your the chance to post a proper "Intro" thread in the Intro forum, which will help you get your post count up (in the proper way) and get you closer to having access to the rest of the forum.

Unfortunately, I cut too much so let me fill a few things back in ...

Quote:

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'87 Turbo II that is owned by a friend of his Dad's, no modifications except painted wheels.

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I apologize for that.

As for the fluids, it's probably best to replace everything in the car since it will be new to you. Now I know you mentioned that it's a friend of your Dad's so you may have an actual history of the car that you can trust, in which case you can see what he's replaced recently and work from there.

Finally, for the modifications, modifications usually begin with the exhaust and safeguards against increased boost. I don't know what options you have available to you for bolt-on parts in Eastern Europe though.

Again, sorry for cutting so much of your post. I will find you some relevant links.

Make sure to check out the Frequently Asked Questions thread at the top of this page, and also here is a link: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...s-order-23628/

Ok thanks !
Now if I some how get my hands on a s5 intake and get this guy's help at the garage to fit it I should also upgrade the air filter/muffler and get rid of the "small" cat to increase power....right?
Also I am a bit scared to port the wastegate cause if I mess up I might destroy up smth important, so are there any other ways to take care of the boost pressure that dosent involve such advanced operations ?

PS I found a really wired thing about the diff - it has a weld on the entire lenght of it, almost like it was cracked from its front to the rear and then welded(?) . Also the thinner part that connects to the shaft from the engine is longer than normal, like maybe a few cm longer (??) Owner told me it needed to be replaced and he modified a mx5 diff and used that instead (?????????????) Hows this eventually posibile ?! He didn't give too much info about the modiffication either. Also he "forgot" to specify all that when he first showed us the car...
Really sorry I couldnt take any pics but this whole thing raises big questions so what you think :/

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I really don't know what to make of that. It may be something suspect, or it may be completely normal ... (IF one wants to put a Miata rear in a T2) ... I don't know. The question really rests on final price versus how willing you are to take a chance on a questionable driveline modification. Either way, it's totally up to you.

How solid is the car? Is it it solid enough, and priced enough to justify possibly swallowing the cost of a proper rear end? Also, what are your ultimate plans?

The other questions are out of my element. I never had a T2, so modding one from scratch is not something that I can help you with from experience. I know back in the day (way back) companies used to offer a fuel cut controller, but I don't know if that would be something you're interested in or more modern methods. My bottomline advice is wait until you can post in the regular forum and search the Gen II forum. If nothing helps you out, then post your questions in a thread.

I start to think I should look after another rx7, if one will ever come up for sale. Today I went test driving and this guy let me do a test alone and one as a passenger while he was driving. The rear wheels slip when you take a somewhat tighter turn and do a rubber screeching sound, like chirping, Aamost like the diff dosen't work. But in garage it looks like its doing really well. With the car lifted and running if you stop one wheel the other one starts spinning faster, like it is intended. For some reason there are strong vibrations in the gear stick when at low rpm. Tons of heat coming from the tranny tunnel trying to fry my leg. Owner said it is because the car has been used in "somewhat competitive driving" (?). After 100-110 kmph the vibration gets real in the back, and the violent shakes make you slow down. Even with full tank and supposedly heavier rear, they dont go away. we have saying in our country that roughly means "A young tired horse is worth just as much as a old tired horse. However if you rest both of them the second one will still worth nothing". Am I in the second situation ...?

Here are some pics and again thanks for spending your time with my questions


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8756aae52e.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...22bbe0f412.jpg
Here are the other unpainted rims

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3fc51c3d32.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...eb6fcf5a29.jpg

I will co-sign the obvious. Something is terribly wrong. My gut tells me it's probably nothing that cannot be fixed (with time, and of course, money), but my gut occasionally also tries to tell me to eat things that I'm allergic to. So between that and the fact that my gut WILL NOT be there to help you when you're out of however much money you'd be paying for the car, I would have to say if you're feeling apprehensive about it, then try to negotiate it down further ... OR ... just keep looking for another car. Waiting sucks, but it is sometimes the best choice.

anyway do you think it is a clever idea to DD any rx7 because I still need to go every morning from my house to the faculty and in between i will also go joy riding / barely "racing" . Is a SA better suited for that ? Or a NA FC ? Because I might have found a really good one, and the NA seems more reliable, despite being older than the Turbo.

Best regards.

There is no magic to daily driving any Rx-7. They all have their quips and quirks - every generation. Address the quirks and common sense will pretty much do the rest, and I would dare say that that includes the factory turbo models. You have the right idea with thinking the NA engines will last a little longer than the turbos, but the truth is (in my opinion) at this point, 30+ years after the fact, it probably doesn't matter much. What you would want to do is find a car that shows evidence of an owner that knows what they have and has cared for it throughout their ownership. If I were looking for an Rx-7 to drive as transportation (and little fun mixed in there, too), then I would take well-cared for Gen 1 over a beat up/mechanically unkempt Gen 3 any day of the week.

At the risk of sounding condescending, you are doing the right thing though. Be patient, research and keep an open mind. Since you're particularly looking for a T2, you will have more options and increase your chance of finding the right car for you.