Almost Out!
 

Hello all,
I am in the process of removing my engine for a long overdue rebuild. As I am following the workshop manual (mostly, hahaha), I have come to a problem. Is there anyway to get around using the SST for the power steering pulley? Also, I am having trouble getting to the two top, bell housing center bolts. Any tips? And I think besides those, the only thing to disconnect is the oil lines from the cooler! I tried searching, but I couldn't find a specific enough search phrase, as "engine removal" and "bell housing" came back with so many posts! Hahaha.

So close, and not bad for a half day in a cramped garage with just some basic tools! I will hopefully take some pictures and begin a build thread! Thanks again!

what is an SST?..do you mean AST?
and please post your Car series as this is a NEW tech section and many guys do not know your car.

He has an 93 FD guys.

Sorry, I forgot. Yes it's a 93 FD non- R1 :(

The SST is the special service tool. To remove the pulley it's the only one that the manual requires, but I KNOW there has to be another way! :)

Did you remove the nut for the pulley yet? My pulley was easy to remove by hand. But be careful, the plastic is very brittle and easy to break, even if you use the SST.

I know people on here do it either way but I personally found it easier to remove the engine and tranny together (despite what the FSM says).

Thanks, I'm going to give it another go tomorrow. Andre - How did they remove the nut for the pulley? I thought that was what the SST was for. That's the one I'm having trouble with. Pixel - If I get stuck with those two bolts, I'll probably just pull them together then. Gotta get this thing out and off to IRP!

Impact took it right off :)
And I don't remember any drama getting the pulley off the shaft.

Tips? Yes, as Andre mentioned, get an impact (pneumatic or electric) or maybe an adaptor for a drill-driver. The quick application of torque should loosen the nut and then it's a matter of pulling and wiggling by hand until the plastic pulley loosens and comes off. Behind that pulley are the mounting bolts for the PS pump which you can then remove from the bracket and move to the side. You DON'T have to disconnect any lines. Likewise for the AC compressor.
As for the bell-housing bolts....the only two that are difficult at all are the two near the top on the right/passenger side. Just put a few extensions together with a 'u-joint" adaptor with a short/shallow 14mm hex socket. Raise up the ratchet as much as you can beside the transmission to remove. They aren't typically torqued really tight...they don't have to be.

Thanks everyone! I'll let you know how this goes later today!

You can just see one of the mentioned PS pump mounting bolts in this picture. Get a bungie-cord to hold it up out of the way.

If you remove the engine w/o transmission, you'll need the SST shown and labeled in the center of the picture. Very rare but it is for sale...for the right price.

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...psa71e118b.jpg

I can see the PS pump in the far upper right hand corner. Is that the SST in the tranny in the middle? How would you even get that in there if the engine is in place? Is the the SST to remove the clutch hub assembly? I can't find an SST in the manual that looks like that in either the transmission or engine section.

it was a joke, since he just used a wood block to support the transmission. usually i just let it sag and remove the clutch slave. it can't drop any lower than the subframe anyways.

I was beginning to remove engine via cherry picker, when it seems like it is still connected. Do to the fact that I am not following the FSM, the tranny is staying in the car. Do I have to disconnect the pressure plate from the fly wheel? Or anything using the service holes A and/or B on the tranny?

you need to disconnect the throwout bearing. it is a pull type throwout bearing/clutch, check youtube for a few videos which show what you have to do.

Yep, apologies to the OP, I didn't mean to add confusion. I had to periodically move the car around at the shop while the engine was out. I didn't like the metal to metal contact between the bellhousing and crossmember. IIRC, the "SST" holds it pretty close to it's 'natural' level. Not certain what the clutch slave has to do with it, but it's disconnected in that picture too. Point is, for us amateurs there are ways around most all of the SSTs in the Manual.

if the slave isn't removed the hose gets pulled to it's extreme length, which i don't like.

Thank you so much everyone! The engine is out! The car had been sitting for so long, the flywheel/clutch assembly had rusted/fused together. So in taking the engine out, we though that things were still connected and we had missed something. But after careful application of brute force (read: shaking and jerking the cherry picker like hell!) it broke free and the motor is now ready to be prepped for shipping! Thanks again!