88 turbo II upgrade path ?
Hey guys I got a 88 turbo 2 s5 swap.
Confused on what to do next. I got an oil cooler, boost guage, boost controller, AF guage, fuel cut defender, rb dual exhaust ( wanna straight pipe, rb is too quiet) full emmisions delete. That's it...I think. Oh stage 3 clutch. Thanks for any advice guys. I want 350-400hp on a dd. |
Get a turbo that will eat puppies and a set of Garden hose injectors and ECU.
Start looking at the build threads that guys have put up and note the parts used to achieve what they are putting out power wise with the car,Honestly it's the best I can tell ya. Then start spending Wads of cash.. |
What about reliability mods...oil catch can fuel regulator...omp?
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The upgrade path depends on your goal and budget. You stated that it is a dd, but you don't need that kind of power to drive to the grocery store. What is the purpose of the car (drag racing, drifting, autocrossing, etc.), and did you want to gradually add parts or jump right in and spend a lot of time and money to get a nice setup all at once?
I don't quite understand what "88 turbo 2 s5 swap" means. Is it a S4 or S5 engine? Are you using the Non-Turbo or Turbo transmission, driveshaft, halfshafts, and differential? As it is right now, you should really get an upgraded fuel pump. I hope that you did not replace the excellent OEM oil cooler with an aftermarket oil cooler. Also, "stage 3" clutch doesn't mean anything unless you include the brand name. |
It had a s4 motor and I swapped in the s5 motor. Im only 18 and I make shit money. I was gonna get a rb oil adapter where I can hook up gauges. Will a walbro 255 work? And what size injection should I go up to? 720? What about fuel rail. And I want my car to put 350whp reliability and all I do is back road driving no highways or shit like that. Thanks for reply btw
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its not as easy as plopping on [parts and expecting the car to be "bigger and better".
If you upgrade the injectors then you must upgrade the ECU., Fuel pump,regulator etc. Turbo?..new ECU for sure. If you are "only 18 and make shit Money" then think about your Goals for this car wisely. This Car scene can suck the living shit out of your bank account,and when you are 18 and gotta eat,I think that takes a little money managing. Don't just go out and buy a boat load of parts and try to build up a "super car ".It won't turn out well..trust me,been there..still there..,recouperating. |
My car is everything to me like you have no idea....well im sure you do but Im just worried it will blow one day so can we change this thread to proper maintenance and reliability mods ?
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If we change the thread we may as well delete it all together and all that was said.
And as far as Proper reliability and maintenance,well there are Tons of threads on that subject as it has been covered more times than a "wet spot" on a Kardashian bed. |
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
It had a s4 motor and I swapped in the s5 motor.
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
Im only 18 and I make shit money.
I highly recommend stashing money in a bank account as an emergency fund for when your car breaks. Even though your car is built very well, it is still 26 years old. I guarantee you that something major will break sooner or later, most likely sooner. You don't want to throw all your money into shiny parts and then end up with a lawn ornament because you don't have any money left to fix something vital. I recommend at least $2,000 in the bank before you buy anything that you don't really need.
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
I was gonna get a rb oil adapter where I can hook up gauges.
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
Will a walbro 255 work?
RX-7 Store - Fuel Pumps
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
And what size injection should I go up to? 720?
The cheapest ECU upgrade is the Rtek chip, so you may want to browse through the options for future planning. We also have an Rtek subforum. I prefer a full standalone EMS (Haltech, Electromotive, Wolf, etc.), but the Rtek chips are a nice low-budget upgrade that are easy to install and the Stage 1 chips require no tuning if you use the appropriate fuel injectors. With any ECU upgrade the fuel cut defender is no longer needed, so you can sell it off to recapture some money. Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information Rtek Forum - RX7Club.com Another budget upgrade is a BNR hybrid turbo. Like the Rtek chips, they are not optimal, but they are a good low-budget upgrade. Also, you can just get a stock rebuild if you like. Any turbo upgrade needs to be paired with an appropriate ECU and fuel system upgrade, and sometimes even more mods (larger radiator, larger intercooler, upgraded clutch pack, etc.) so keep that in mind when shopping. BNR Supercars - Bryan Nickell's Rotary Supercars - Mazda RX-7 2nd Generation (1987-1991)
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
What about fuel rail.
Originally Posted by RotaryFormulaD
(Post 11742903)
can we change this thread to proper maintenance and reliability mods
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals The maintenance schedule is in the front of the FSM in Chapter 0. Follow the Normal schedule if you just drive to and from work or school, or follow the Unique schedule if you drive your car pretty hard. Typical Turbo II problem areas: How To Buy An '86-'92 Turbo RX-7 Bookmark these help pages: Aaron Cake - The Second Generation Mazda RX-7 FC3S Pro v2.0:* Site Map Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild. Mazdatrix - FAQ's and How-to's Racing Beat - Rotary Tech Tips Here is what I normally do when I buy a used S4 RX-7, assuming that the parts need to be replaced (which they usually do). - New Optima Redtop battery with quick-disconnect marine terminals - Upgrade to S5 stereo surround and heater vents - Aftermarket stereo and power antenna relay - New fuel pulsation damper, fuel filter, and SAE 30R9 fuel lines - Fuel injectors cleaned and "rebuilt" by Witchhunter, new manifold gasket installed on reinstallation - New oil filter pedestal O-rings (two each) - New fan belts, coolant, thermostat, hoses, spark plugs, and plug wires - Koyo all-aluminum radiator - Red Line synthetic oil in the transmission and differential, Castrol GTX oil in the engine, Mazda oil filter, Fumoto F-106 oil drain valve - New brake hardware kit (W-springs and liners), Mazdatrix DOT stainless steel brake lines, Castrol Advanced Performance brake fluid The oil filter pedestal O-rings should be replaced if you are not sure how old they are. They tend to crack and leak oil on the lower heater hose, causing a pinhole leak that is really annoying and extremely difficult to diagnose. To add insult to injury, a replacement hose isn't cheap. The O-rings are part 9954-10-1601 (10-1601-9954 @ Mazdatrix), and two are needed. http://www.banzai-racing.com/store/m...size1/mofp.jpg The Fumoto F-106 (non-nipple) oil drain valve is not necessary, but it makes changing the oil sooooo much easier. I assume the new short nipple model would probably work too, but I have not tried one yet to verify. It is a nice low-budget birthday/Christmas present that you can beg from your friends and family. ;) Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™ If you want to order Mazda parts by mail order, then contact: Ray Crowe Malloy Mazda (703) 490-5296 HMKParts@aol.com Hmmm, what else... - Always use distilled water with the antifreeze. It is about $1 per gallon at your local grocery store or drug store, sold in the section with the drinking water. See the FSM for the proper mixing ratio for your local weather conditions. - Use Top Tier gas so that you don't need to buy any of that expensive "fuel system cleaning" snake oil. Your engine is rated for Regular unleaded if you stick to the stock boost level of about 8 psi, otherwise you should probably use higher octane to keep the engine from blowing up. Contrary to slick advertising, the lower octane is typically better for power and economy as long as it doesn't cause the engine to knock. Avoid gas that is more than 10% ethanol. Top Tier Gasoline - Lastly and most importantly, use a torque wrench so you don't ruin expensive parts when working on your car. You can probably borrow one for free from your local generic auto parts store (AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, etc.). The torque values are in Chapter 30 of the FSM.
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11743112)
If we change the thread we may as well delete it all together and all that was said.
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^ well thanks man. You awnsered all my questions . I live in bfe small town in Ohio so theres no one to talk to HURR DURR U MEAN TO TELL ME DEM DER CARS RUN ON TRIANGLES BS THAT AIN'T MEXICAN
thanks again guys haha But last questions....I love the sounds of rotarys and for myself not to annoy other people I think ill straight pipe. It just sounds so awesome! |
You must have done something right to put EVIL in a GOOD mood..!
I usually send him a vibrating postal package..( Hooker with DT's!) |
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11743211)
You must have done something right to put EVIL in a GOOD mood..!
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
(Post 11743211)
I usually send him a vibrating postal package..( Hooker with DT's!)
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You sort of remind me of a real screwed up alternator with a bad regulator connection..lol!.......14.5........8.0,.........16 !!..hahha!..
Me?.I'm just bad gas..lol! |
In addition to all that was mentioned above, I'd like to offer a few simple, straightforward mods which I like to call The ABCs of Electrical Mods: Alternator, Battery & Cables.
Alternator: Since you said you've got a S5T2 swap in a S4T2, you have an alternator that is marginally better than overworked. Most owners upgrade to a 100 Amp FD Alternator to eliminate electrical issues. But since FD ones tend to be slightly pricey (Don't get one from Autozone or another parts store!), my recommendation is to go straight to the 130 Amp Taurus Alternator. It does take some fabrication, just a couple of flat brackets with two 3/8" holes drilled about 1.5" apart and some washers so everything lines up, but it's a small price to pay to have an alternator that you'll never be able to overwork. Plus, 3.8L 92-95 Taurus/Sable/Windstars are common at the junkyard and I've only seen Ford-branded alternators there. You'll need to upgrade the output cable to 4awg too. Battery: A good battery pays for itself. A shitty Autozone battery keeps you tethered to Autozone because of its warranty. I personally recommend a Deka Intimidator AGM battery based on both the experience of Aaron Cake and myself. $150 for one through Remybattery.com is money well spent. I've run mine into the ground at least 20 times and it keeps coming back up with a simple 2/10/50amp walmart charger. Add in some Marine Battery Terminals and you're golden. Cables: Chances are that yours are original and in the same questionable shape mine were before my 20B conversion. Replace them with 4awg cable per this article: Proper RX-7 Grounding Procedures Here are the lengths you'll need, with a little extra to route them clean and tidy. Battery Positive to Starter: 48" Battery Negative to Main Ground: 24" Main Ground to Starter Ground: 24" Battery Positive to Alternator: 36" Since you'll be replacing the Alternator cable, you'll need to extract all of the cables and 'divorce' the old Alternator cable from the Fuse box cable. Cut the alternator/fuse box cable at the staple and give the remaining fuse box cable a ring terminal to attach to the positive battery terminal. With this arrangement, you'll have 3 cable on the positive terminal, which the normal cheapie terminals can't handle. This is why I recommend Marine Battery Terminals such as these: Lynx/Marine battery terminal (06070) | Battery Terminal End and Adapter | AutoZone.com |
I have terrible idle problems when i start car if i let the clutch out the car dies. My idle is terrible. Its only got 70k on the engine. And the boost guage says it goes up to 10 then down to 8ish while under wot. Boost leak?
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Values from the stock gauge are only a relative reading (and go out the window with a Fuel Cut Defender), so I would recommend getting another boost gauge to have something solid & reliable. $20 at Harbor Freight is a cheap way of getting reliable readings.
If your idle is searching, that does sound like a vacuum leak. Try spraying some brake cleaner at various parts of the UIM and LIM. If the idle changes noticeably, you've found a leak. On my 20B, the idle was a tad low and and jumped about 100rpm when I did this. Found the leak where the UIM met the Throttle Body. Turns out I had a FD gasket there instead of a Cosmo one. $5 at Advance Auto for some gasket material, a hammer and 30 minutes later, no more leak! |
These guys all gave a lot of great info. Ive just got a link for you to look over. Lol still, theres some good tid bits of info in here, check it out. Hopefully it helps.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm |
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