88 GTU Brake Rotor Nightmare
 

Hello all,

Yesterday I began my sad attempt to change my Brake rotors and pads, my reason for changing them and bleeding the lines is because my passenger side caliper was staying actuated, it would never stop grinding/braking... once I got the wheel and caliper off I tried to unscrew the screws holding in the Rotor, but to no avail, so I proceeded to drill the screws out, which got the rear rotors loose, my second issue is that now my caliper pistons won't go back in even with a clamp, and my passenger side Brake line is clogged or something because when I press the brakes no fluid comes out of the passenger side line, but the driver side does leak fluid when I press the brakes. So my question is, first how can I check too see if my caliper is shot,and how do I push the piston back in (I've tried clamps) also, do I need the screws for the Rotor? Also how can I fix my Brake line?

In case you haven't downloaded it yet: Index of /files/manuals/1988 RX-7 FSM

*A little late now, but 99% of the time one of these Shopping will remove the screws retaining the rotor to the hub. I've got one, but there are cheaper versions out there. Regardless, no toolbox is complete without one. Once screws are removed they can be re-installed with a little anti-seize and never be a problem again. I also use a LITTLE anti-seize on the face of the hub when replacing brake rotors or drums.

*I don't think your brake caliper pistons are the "screw-in" type, so the only other causes for it NOT to compress is that the piston is frozen with rust. That means your caliper is shot. It probably can be rebuilt, but usually it's not worth the trouble given the price of rebuilt calipers. If that's the case, it usually means your brake fluid is REALLY old and contaminated with water which caused the rust.
Less likely IMO, the brake hose has collapsed to a point it's blocking fluid. That's easy to check, just disconnect the hose or open the bleeder and see if the piston will compress.

I did have the caliper line disconnected but either I'm too weak or the caliper is seized on both sides because I cannot get them do compress with a clamp, do I need to take them off completely and use the vice? Also for the screws on the rotors, do I need them, most modern cars don't have them the rotors just slip on and off and are held in by the wheel.

88 GTU Brake Rotor Nightmare
 

If you can't push the front caliper pistons back in they are junk

Now if we're talking about rear calipers, they are turn in

they are the rear calipers, but what should i be using to push them in?

There's an inexpensive tool that you can buy at most chain part stores. Always reminded me of a Rubiks cube.
As for the screws, no...you don't absolutely need them. I think they make reinstalling the brake pads easier as it holds the rotor in place without the wheel. That's probably why the factory used them...it helps in the assembly line. Still I would put a little antiseize on the face of the hub. And consider flushing the brake lines of all old fluid.

88 GTU Brake Rotor Nightmare
 

Like blue said you can rent the tool, or if you have a sturdy pair of needle nose pliers they will turn them in also but BE CAREFUL, you slip wrong you can damage the caliper

Now which way to turn, that i don't remember, i think its clockwise though

you need this for the rear brakes.
JEGS Performance Products 80664, JEGS Caliper Piston Rotating Tool | JEGS Performance Products

Thanks!

you're welcome..I work on commission!