86 n/a
 

so i just picked up an 86 n/a for $250, body is in pretty rough shape but its fixable, my main question though, it is not getting spark(or so prev. owner said i havnt had the time to check it yet) form him unplugging the MAF to put on an aftermartket intake. he told me it wouldnt start after that, so i guess what im asking is what should i check for and run through to figure out how to get my new love running?

The MAF sensor array on the 84-92 RX-7s is called an Air Flow Meter (AFM). I wouldn't put much faith in the previous owner's diagnostic skills if he can't even install an intake without killing the car.

I would first check to make sure the AFM has its electrical plug attached properly. You can find a link to a free downloadable Factory Service Manual (FSM) from a link in the FAQ for FC. The 88 manual will work for your 86:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

If it was attached properly but the car still wouldn't start, then I would next try this unflood procedure:
1. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
2. Open the hood and remove the fuse block cover shown below. You will find it near the driver's side shock tower.
3. Remove the EGI INJ fuse, which is usually green. I recommend holding the cover and fuse in your hand so you don't lose them.
4. Get in the car and crank the engine for about 5-10 seconds.
5. Replace the fuse and cover.
6. Now see if the engine starts.
7. If it doesn't start, then remove the spark plugs and see if they need to be cleaned or replaced. Try the procedure again with clean spark plugs.
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...firstworld-jpg

If that still doesn't work then I would check to make sure the fuel system is working. The ignition system is the last thing I would check because it rarely fails, especially when installing an intake. Our cars suffer much more from engine flooding and poor electrical connections to the fuel pump.

fuel pump works, but just fugiured out its not getting spark??

i dont have a multimeter but i have one of the buzzy testers and checked the black/yellows wires on both coils and they are getting power

Did you perform the unflood procedure listed above with clean spark plugs?

also when i checked the fuel pump i couldnt here it in the car but when i pulled it out and tested it it whirred kinda quiet but but it still was pumping, but then this brings me back to the AFM question how would i go about checking to make sure it is letting the fuel pump turn on?

yes i did and the spark plugs are pretty much brand new

and with the coils, on both of them, there is one single wire with a connector on it that i cant fond another wire that goes to it, is this wire for diagnostics??

and my air/smog pump doesnt have a belt going to it could this also be the reason for the car not starting? it turns over but just doesnt sound like it is even trying, and kinda seems like the starter is spinning the motor to slow but then again im used to hondas so i dont know for sure.

There's a Black wire that has no end for connecting to a tach for diagnostic purposes. There is a Black/White wire in a Green check connector near the leading coil. Wire must have voltage w/key to on as it powers the ECU. No power on this wire usually means the EGI COMP fuse needs replacing.

And you need the belt on the air pump since it also powers other items although it's not the cause for not starting.

is this wire in a connector that doesnt plug into anything if so i checked it and it is getting power. would anyone be willing to pm me their cell phone number so i can send pics and get info faster?

or can someone post up pics that i car refer to and see if certain connectors need to be plugged into any ect.?

when i first got mine it was a hard start, i used transmission fluid poured into the spark plug hole, then it started

ill try, but this still doesnt solve my no spark issue lol, ima give a it a whirl and ill post back with results

You don't need pics to check the Black/White wire for voltage w/key to on. Plug has four wires where three are Yellow based. Other wire is B/W.

Please do not pour anything into the plug holes until you figure out why there is no spark. Use some common sense!

ok, should this connector be plugged into anything?

The Green check connector, no.

the plug im holding the right one?

the blue/yellow wire is by the trailing coil pack(closest to rear of car) is it for diagnostics also?

Should be the one especially if the four wire colors I stated that are in the plug match up w/the ones in the pic you provided.

Yes if it ends in a bullet connector.

this look right?

blue/yellow wire as stated above

could it potentially be my plug wires? and how would you recomend testing spark with with coil packs?

Larger plug has the Black/White wire. Check for voltage w/key to on before I grow old and die.

Looks like a bullet connector to me.

If the B/W wire does not have voltage w/key to on then it really doesn't matter whether you have plug wires or not.

i already stated above that i checked it and it is getting power i dont have a multimeter but i have a test light that buzzes and it came on and buzzed so it is getting power

Make sure the CAS is plugged in correctly. And how did you test for spark? Best way to check the coils would be to unplug the plugs from the leading coil for example and place the plug ends near the coil boot so that there is a fraction of an inch between the two and turn the engine over and observe for the presence of any spark.

So after some research i unplugged the AFM AND IT STARTED (: it was short lived tho it died after a couple seconds, but still, so does this mean the afm is bad??

Could very well be. You could jumper the fuel check connector and that should cause the engine to run longer but it will run very rich and eventually heat up the exhaust manifold til it glows and don't drive the car if you do jumper the check connector.

Could you post a pic of the fuel check connector? and also no one said anything past disconnecting it..should i reconnect it and try to see if the motor stays running?? and thanks for taking the time to help with my vague descriptions

so i have pretty much narrowed it down to be the AFM, when its plugged in it doesn even try to start the tach doesnt move or anything, when its unplugged though, it will try and the tach gives feed back. how and what should i do to go about fixing this? and how much are AFM's if i need a new one?

Use the used parts thread as a new one would run about $900. W/the AFM connected and key to on the Brown/White wire at the TPS plug would read 5 volts (obviously a Volt Meter would be of use). If it read a very low number then one of the sensors fed by this wire, and there are a handful is shorting out this voltage, which is required to power various sensors. If there isn't the 5 volts on the Br/W wire w/key to on w/the AFM connected, but there is the 5 volts w/the AFM unplugged then the AFM is likely shorting out this wire.

Alright ill try to get a reader tomorrow, and if the AFM is shorting out the wire im taking it as there is no fixing it?

Probably not unless you really know how to repair electrical equipment. One of the wires to the unit might have a short in it as well which would be an easy fix. Two of the wires run to the ECU which could be tested and there is an ohm test in the service manual that explains how to test the terminals of the AFM.

so i was messing around with the AFM today and opened up the air box took out the filter and with key ON i pushed the flap open and heard the what i assume is the fuel pump then i had a second party try to start the car but it still wouldnt start, then i unplugged the afm and it started idled and died again, this leads me to believe its possibly the connector itself instead of the afm??

ordered a new afm. hoping that this solves the problem (:

Remanufactured or a used one from a board member? Remanufactured tend not to work.

check resistance of spark plug leads. Should be around 14kohm~16kohm for new leads. If you've got the original coils in there though, they probably won't get through with that much resistance. I put some old leads with 8kohm~9kohm resistance in with some old but cleaned coils and an old but cleaned set of NGK plugs and got spark after futzing for months with newer plugs, new leads, but old coils to no avail.

sorry for the late reply but it is from a known running 87 from one of my citys junk yards, sister yard, if that makes sense

SHE LIVES!!! Its was the afm. Thanks for helping my narrow it down (: