2nd gen runs when on throttle but dies when not
 

pk so i am about to pick up an 86 but there is a small or large problem i'm not sure.
the car will start up and run but only if you keep on the throttle, if i let off it dies and has to sit for a little while before it stars again. the kid says it's the maf but i have no clue. it runs a little rich also. any info you have on possible causes would be greatly appreciated. thank you

Sounds like it may be an injector issue. If one is sticking open a bit then the car will run hideously rich and require the throttle to be wide open to get enough air.

Dirty injectors fits, not only because of the need to open the throttle, but also because you mentioned a flooding issue.

The AFM could also be the problem if someone has tweaked the bypass screw on it, or if the resistance values are completely out of whack.

I know Im a newbie, but I had the same problem last weeked. found the BAC hose wasnt secured and that the vac line below the dashpot was discon'd. Since fixing those 2 lil things, havent had a problem with startup and i can now sit at idle as long as i want.

RotaryRocket88, whats the AFM? Id like to check my resistances on that as well.

Air Flow Meter. You can find the resistance testing info in the fuel and emissions section of the FSM. FSM available for download at the top of this forum.

ok so what are these bac and dashpot things and where may i find them? i'm completly new the the wankle rotary and mazda

This site will help: http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/

The training manuals and FSM will have all the answers when it comes to learning the about the engine / cars.

Take off the intercooler to reveal the throttle body. You will see a "plunger" type part with a white nipple on the bottom of it. That part is the dashpot. Look underneath it and make sure that the vacuum lines under it are sttached to the throttle body. Its easier to see it all from the driver side of the car. As far as the BAC, go back to the passenger side, and near the top of the engine, you will see the BAC. It has 2 mount studs and has a coolant line on the front and on the back of it. Look on the bottom of that BAC valve and make sure the 5/8" heater hose is connected properly. And while youre at it, with the intercooler off, inspect ALL your intake hoses and vacuum lines. Hope this helps and good luck.

thanks guys. but the car is not turbo 2. lol but thanks for the compliment. lol

Whoops! haha, sorry, but its still a good itea to check for vac and exhaust leaks. For example, (i had 2 exhaust manifold studs broken) just this morning after putting everything back together, with NO leaks and pulling exactly 20 inhg of vacuum, my idle adjust and variable resistor started working for the first time. Now I can dial her anyway I want to. I only had the car for a week, but thats just to show ya the effects of how horrible a simple and small leak can make your machine perform.

yeah i've never had this much trouble from a vac leak. the only other vehicle that gave me a lot of trouble from a small vac leak was a supra

RX-7s are very sensitive to vacuum leaks, as are most vehicles that use AFMs.